billybob6110

I am installing the same rods and bearings (new bearings) into a new block. its been align honed and bored. the ******* helping me put the motor together said that the motor is supposed to be tight due to compression. I told him its not. but anyway he proceeds to spin the motor over with a pipe wrench on the crank. we pull the cap off and now the bearings are totally jacked up. deep grooves on the bearings. I asked if he plastigauge it and he said yes with a reading of .001. isn't that to tight of a clearance, and how do I fix this issue. I have 0.04 bearings in it now, which the old ones were also. thanks

1gary

I'm confused here. Your saying someone is trying to put together your engine??. How come??. Why aren't you doing it??. Then with a tight engine he is telling you it's tight because of compression??. The heads are off the engine.Right??. So how can it have any compression at all??. Then your telling me the bearings are all scratched(sp) up. Because your friend is telling you with pipe wrench in his hands excludes him from knowing what he is doing and is telling you the engine is tight because of compression without having heads on,makes me wonder if he used assembly lube on the crank/new bearings or if he was trying to put it together dry??. Then the next logical question is for the damaged bearing where did the worn off material go??. Well the same logical conclusion is in the oil passages on the crank!!. Just setting there to ruin your rebuild. It is also now reasonable to question anyone's measurement of bearing clearances. Also if the crank got damages.


Please,please,don't take this as me trying to embarrass you or pick on you or your friend. I don't like reading where something can be salvaged and isn't due to the lack of experience.

So here is my suggestion. Stop what you doing and take it all to a machine shop to have them put together a short block for you telling them everything that happened so they know what to check. Alot of times it would be $300 or less and money well spent when you consider losing it all and having to build a entirely another engine.

I commend you for you honest post here asking for help.Do give my suggestion some serious thought.

1gary

Want to add here that just because the block was line honed,doesn't mean the crank didn't need to turned on the mains/rod journals or the big end of the rods didn't need to be re-sized.It is another reason why you need to have a machine shop short block this for you.They can check all those things and find any addition work that is needed to be done. If the rod journals are tapered or not round,it doesn't matter what size bearings you put on there,it is a recipe for a blown up engine.

Restrorob

iTrader: (7)

Couldn't agree more, In the end.... Your wallet will thank you.....

billybob6110

no embarassment here! first engine rebuild is turning out to be more of a nightmare then a learning experience. im going to call the machine shop i got to and have them assemble it cause i just want to get this thing done and running. alot of money went in to it, and i dont wanna waste it on something so stupid as a clearance or lignment issue. thanks for the suggestion and im probably going to roll with that suggestion

billybob6110

took motor to shop. ended up needing new bearings, crank polished, and rods resized. only $185 bucks plus hes installing everything for me so that i wont have an issue down road.

1gary

Thanks for the follow-up post.Now be sure to start a build thread about the rest of this with pictures.

billybob6110

what kind of h.p. would i see out of this build?
355 sbc
comp cam 268xe cam
double roller timing chain
air gap intake
670 street avenger carb
210cc heads. i kno i kno to big it is what it is
posi 3.73 rear
th350 trans with 2500-2800 stall.
2 1/4 inch exhaust with dynomax bullets.
aLSO should i got bigger on the exhaust, like a 3 inch or is 21/4 sufficient enough?