help me pick a cam (build thread)
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
help me pick a cam (build thread)
im rolling over to the build thread from the original thread. thanks to everyone who had input and helped me pick a cam. im picking up the motor today, had it bored 0.030 over, cam bearings installed, freeze plugs installed, old pistons pressed off and new pressed on. the motors pretty much brand new besides the heads (210cc procomp heads) and the crank. crank looked fine so no need to purchase or have other machined. new items i purchased are:
-268xe comp cam
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-flat top pistons (hypereutectic)
-melling high volume oil pump
-and misc felpro gasket kit
-gilmer drive pulley system.
The questions i have for the build are:
-do i need to purchase a deeper oil pan rather then keep the stock pan with high volume oil pump?
-what are the recommened clearances for the heads to pistons and the connecting rod bolt to block?
ill keep the thread going as i build and might even throw up some pics.
-268xe comp cam
-cloyes double roller timing chain
-flat top pistons (hypereutectic)
-melling high volume oil pump
-and misc felpro gasket kit
-gilmer drive pulley system.
The questions i have for the build are:
-do i need to purchase a deeper oil pan rather then keep the stock pan with high volume oil pump?
-what are the recommened clearances for the heads to pistons and the connecting rod bolt to block?
ill keep the thread going as i build and might even throw up some pics.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Unless you're doing a stroker, you shouldn't have to worry about connecting rod bolt to block clearances.
If you're going to throw up, you'll have to clean up after yourself...
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
No. But, be prepared for a bunch of people telling you you don't need a HV pump.
For a XE268, it isn't likely that PTV clearance will be a problem.
Unless you're doing a stroker, you shouldn't have to worry about connecting rod bolt to block clearances.
If you're going to throw up, you'll have to clean up after yourself...
For a XE268, it isn't likely that PTV clearance will be a problem.
Unless you're doing a stroker, you shouldn't have to worry about connecting rod bolt to block clearances.
If you're going to throw up, you'll have to clean up after yourself...
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Some will say always degree the cam, others will say not necessary with a "mild" build. It can't hurt to do it, though.
Static friction > running friction, so that may be all you're noticing. The "sticky" assembly lubes will probably magnify the effect. As long as it isn't dependent upon the starting position, you're probably okay.
Static friction > running friction, so that may be all you're noticing. The "sticky" assembly lubes will probably magnify the effect. As long as it isn't dependent upon the starting position, you're probably okay.
#6
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
That cam with those heads are a bad combo. You may be able to work it with 1.6 rockers.
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
Some will say always degree the cam, others will say not necessary with a "mild" build. It can't hurt to do it, though.
Static friction > running friction, so that may be all you're noticing. The "sticky" assembly lubes will probably magnify the effect. As long as it isn't dependent upon the starting position, you're probably okay.
Static friction > running friction, so that may be all you're noticing. The "sticky" assembly lubes will probably magnify the effect. As long as it isn't dependent upon the starting position, you're probably okay.
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#8
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
Abit confusing your post,but if your saying the crank was turned,the bearings is oversized to the amount the crank was turned.
Tolerances of the main/rod bearings along with rings determine the resistance.
Tolerances of the main/rod bearings along with rings determine the resistance.
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
the crank had been turned by previous owner to 0.040. would the main bearings also have been turned to the 0.040? i have 0.030 bearings on the mains now makes me wonder if i have to small of bearings
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
#11
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
Also if you are pressing in new connecting rod bolts, are you having the large ends re-sized?
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
yes heads are next on my list. where can i get cheap replacement heads to work with this cam?
also the crank is still hard to rotate. i use the crank tool and it takes some effort to spin at first, but spins freely after. should i change the style lube i used?
also the crank is still hard to rotate. i use the crank tool and it takes some effort to spin at first, but spins freely after. should i change the style lube i used?
#18
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
What are your goals / budget?
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
ok got a huge problem. my crank keeps seizing up as soon as I tighten down my rear thrust bearing. how do I fix that? the cap seems to sit slightly higher on one side. as soon as I tap it into place it gets hard to turn. sas soon as I tighten it it seizes up. any help please?
#25
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
ok got a huge problem. my crank keeps seizing up as soon as I tighten down my rear thrust bearing. how do I fix that? the cap seems to sit slightly higher on one side. as soon as I tap it into place it gets hard to turn. sas soon as I tighten it it seizes up. any help please?
Obviously not....
Last edited by 89fast5oh; 01-14-2014 at 05:03 PM.
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
theres a dowel pin by the rear main cap. can I remove that? when trying to install the cap it doesn't sit flush. tap with hammer and makes rotation tight. put bolts in and torque. forget turning it.
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
i have a newer block that im putting all the stuff into. i took all the bearings out of the old block, looked at the size 0.030 and bought the same size for the new block. isnt that what i am supposed to do? i was told thats how to do it, but then again look where im at now. im going to see what the clearance i have and go from there. the new block didnt have the crank with it so the crank im using is out of the old block.
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Car: 1991 firebird
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Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
i have a newer block that im putting all the stuff into. i took all the bearings out of the old block, looked at the size 0.030 and bought the same size for the new block. isnt that what i am supposed to do? i was told thats how to do it, but then again look where im at now. im going to see what the clearance i have and go from there. the new block didnt have the crank with it so the crank im using is out of the old block.
Everything torqued to spec
#30
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
No you need to know what the machine shop did for main machining and was the crank cleaned up/turned? Then need to measure clearances of a bearing set and the crank journal. The old block has or could have a completely different machined surface and require different bearings
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
No you need to know what the machine shop did for main machining and was the crank cleaned up/turned? Then need to measure clearances of a bearing set and the crank journal. The old block has or could have a completely different machined surface and require different bearings
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
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Car: 1991 firebird
Engine: TBI 305 (built)
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
That's not good ... U know to torque and let set for few min and tap with small hammer then loosen then retorque then do it all over again about 7 times right ? I could spin my crank with one finger easily after all mains were torqued to spec
Edit: u need a set of micrometers and snap gauges ...I believe clearances for mains are around .001-.0015 end play around .003 rods .002-.0025
Edit: u need a set of micrometers and snap gauges ...I believe clearances for mains are around .001-.0015 end play around .003 rods .002-.0025
Last edited by 1991sleeper; 01-15-2014 at 08:41 AM.
#33
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
OK - I've never heard of tapping and loosening/re-torque 7 times, rubbing chicken bones together, dancing naked around burning tires or what-not….not saying its not done by someone…
Just my opinion, and please don't take this as a bashing….when I first rebuilt my old Dodge 318 decades ago, one of the first things I bought for the rebuild was a book called "How to rebuild your small block Dodge".
That book was the most valuable tool I had during the entire rebuild…I still have it! It not only gave me every single spec I needed, it told me how to check clearances, how to properly use Plasti-gage (yes, it can be used wrong)…things to look out for, tips and tricks etc…with pictures (I needed them)…for literally EVERY aspect of the entire build….even what to ask for at the machine shop.
My point is, you don't want to guess on crank and rod bearing clearances…it's the heart of that engine you're sticking all those bucks into. If not assembled properly, that engine might last all of 2 minutes after it's first started. If you don't have a rebuild guide - get one!! And I'm taking something more informative than the small rebuild section in a Haynes manual BTW…
Only trust what you measure yourself…you're dealing with an unknown block. Sounds like you're pinching the bearing. Time to measure all the crank and rod journals and bearing bores to ensure they're within spec…assume NOTHING and take your time!!
Just my opinion, and please don't take this as a bashing….when I first rebuilt my old Dodge 318 decades ago, one of the first things I bought for the rebuild was a book called "How to rebuild your small block Dodge".
That book was the most valuable tool I had during the entire rebuild…I still have it! It not only gave me every single spec I needed, it told me how to check clearances, how to properly use Plasti-gage (yes, it can be used wrong)…things to look out for, tips and tricks etc…with pictures (I needed them)…for literally EVERY aspect of the entire build….even what to ask for at the machine shop.
My point is, you don't want to guess on crank and rod bearing clearances…it's the heart of that engine you're sticking all those bucks into. If not assembled properly, that engine might last all of 2 minutes after it's first started. If you don't have a rebuild guide - get one!! And I'm taking something more informative than the small rebuild section in a Haynes manual BTW…
Only trust what you measure yourself…you're dealing with an unknown block. Sounds like you're pinching the bearing. Time to measure all the crank and rod journals and bearing bores to ensure they're within spec…assume NOTHING and take your time!!
#34
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
OK - I've never heard of tapping and loosening/re-torque 7 times, rubbing chicken bones together, dancing naked around burning tires or what-not….not saying its not done by someone…
Just my opinion, and please don't take this as a bashing….when I first rebuilt my old Dodge 318 decades ago, one of the first things I bought for the rebuild was a book called "How to rebuild your small block Dodge".
That book was the most valuable tool I had during the entire rebuild…I still have it! It not only gave me every single spec I needed, it told me how to check clearances, how to properly use Plasti-gage (yes, it can be used wrong)…things to look out for, tips and tricks etc…with pictures (I needed them)…for literally EVERY aspect of the entire build….even what to ask for at the machine shop.
My point is, you don't want to guess on crank and rod bearing clearances…it's the heart of that engine you're sticking all those bucks into. If not assembled properly, that engine might last all of 2 minutes after it's first started. If you don't have a rebuild guide - get one!! And I'm taking something more informative than the small rebuild section in a Haynes manual BTW…
Only trust what you measure yourself…you're dealing with an unknown block. Sounds like you're pinching the bearing. Time to measure all the crank and rod journals and bearing bores to ensure they're within spec…assume NOTHING and take your time!!
Just my opinion, and please don't take this as a bashing….when I first rebuilt my old Dodge 318 decades ago, one of the first things I bought for the rebuild was a book called "How to rebuild your small block Dodge".
That book was the most valuable tool I had during the entire rebuild…I still have it! It not only gave me every single spec I needed, it told me how to check clearances, how to properly use Plasti-gage (yes, it can be used wrong)…things to look out for, tips and tricks etc…with pictures (I needed them)…for literally EVERY aspect of the entire build….even what to ask for at the machine shop.
My point is, you don't want to guess on crank and rod bearing clearances…it's the heart of that engine you're sticking all those bucks into. If not assembled properly, that engine might last all of 2 minutes after it's first started. If you don't have a rebuild guide - get one!! And I'm taking something more informative than the small rebuild section in a Haynes manual BTW…
Only trust what you measure yourself…you're dealing with an unknown block. Sounds like you're pinching the bearing. Time to measure all the crank and rod journals and bearing bores to ensure they're within spec…assume NOTHING and take your time!!
#35
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
i have a newer block that im putting all the stuff into. i took all the bearings out of the old block, looked at the size 0.030 and bought the same size for the new block. isnt that what i am supposed to do? i was told thats how to do it, but then again look where im at now. im going to see what the clearance i have and go from there. the new block didnt have the crank with it so the crank im using is out of the old block.
What year is the block and what year is the different crank you have?
#36
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
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Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
there both early 69-80 small blocks. the old block was a 2 bolt and the new block is a four bolt main
Last edited by billybob6110; 01-15-2014 at 11:13 AM.
#37
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Car: 83Z28 HO
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Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
thank you for sharing about the rebuild expereience u had. im going to look for a small block rebuild book and take my time. its my first engine build, so if questions and answers from me sound off the wall, its because im learning and listening. i just dont understand why the dowel pin makes bearing sit funny, makes me think that it is pinching bearing from that
Even though I was rebuilding a Dodge at the time, I learned A LOT of things that applied to all other brands of engines. Well worth the 20 bucks I spent on the book.
The rear bearing cap should go on flush on both sides. The dowel needs to be there to keep it perfectly aligned. If it's not, you're pinching the bearing so DON'T tighten it down whatsoever till you figure out what's going on…you might end up distorting the bearing cap if you do!
#38
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
Thanks for not taking it the wrong way, and you're welcome!
Even though I was rebuilding a Dodge at the time, I learned A LOT of things that applied to all other brands of engines. Well worth the 20 bucks I spent on the book.
The rear bearing cap should go on flush on both sides. The dowel needs to be there to keep it perfectly aligned. If it's not, you're pinching the bearing so DON'T tighten it down whatsoever till you figure out what's going on…you might end up distorting the bearing cap if you do!
Even though I was rebuilding a Dodge at the time, I learned A LOT of things that applied to all other brands of engines. Well worth the 20 bucks I spent on the book.
The rear bearing cap should go on flush on both sides. The dowel needs to be there to keep it perfectly aligned. If it's not, you're pinching the bearing so DON'T tighten it down whatsoever till you figure out what's going on…you might end up distorting the bearing cap if you do!
#39
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
No you need to know what the machine shop did for main machining and was the crank cleaned up/turned? Then need to measure clearances of a bearing set and the crank journal. The old block has or could have a completely different machined surface and require different bearings
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
Atleast use some plasti gauge to get a rough idea
ALL the bearings read on the .002in on the plastigauge INCLUDING the rear cap.
Journals on the crank:
5=2.43
4=2.41
3=2.42
2=2.42
1=2.43
now that damn rear cap doesn't sit like it should onto the block. theres a small but noticeable gap on one side. I think something may be up with the cap. causing the bearing to pinch. any ideas? lead me to the light!
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
with measurements of crank is the bearings the right size?
#43
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
ok guys heres my measurement help me out haha
ALL the bearings read on the .002in on the plastigauge INCLUDING the rear cap.
Journals on the crank:
5=2.43
4=2.41
3=2.42
2=2.42
1=2.43
now that damn rear cap doesn't sit like it should onto the block. theres a small but noticeable gap on one side. I think something may be up with the cap. causing the bearing to pinch. any ideas? lead me to the light!
ALL the bearings read on the .002in on the plastigauge INCLUDING the rear cap.
Journals on the crank:
5=2.43
4=2.41
3=2.42
2=2.42
1=2.43
now that damn rear cap doesn't sit like it should onto the block. theres a small but noticeable gap on one side. I think something may be up with the cap. causing the bearing to pinch. any ideas? lead me to the light!
Show us some pictures.
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
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Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
i will go flush once you tap it with a small hammer. doing that makes the crank tight.then if i torque it it wont spin.
#46
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
#48
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Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
Sounds more like that they were the wrong caps for the block. If so, you'll need the thing align bored. If these guys sold you the block, it should be on them IMO....never heard of machining caps for the crank...
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
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Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Re: help me pick a cam (build thread)
UPDATE: took the crank and motor back to the machine shop. turns out the wrong caps were installed on to my block. he got new caps and alignbored the motor for free for the mix up. awesome!!!. got everything to put motor back, got cam bearings in, freezeplugs, crank and bearings set tolerance by shop. now to install the cam and pistons and prep for a nice paint job then final assembly. one question is how do i measure deck height with pistons in?
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