galletti

So I have an 88 IROC LB9. It was running real rough so, I decided to to a MAF to MAP swap thus eliminating the MAF sensor, using new knock sensor and ECM. Everything went swimmingly during the swap. Only the C15 (EGR Diagnostic) and D12 (MAF Burn Off) wires were left unused which I believe is correct. I burned a custom chip starting with AXXB and turning CCP, EGR, AIR and VATS off. Problem is, the car starts but dies right away. I put in the AXXB factory MEMCAL and only got a 46 (VATS error) which tells me the chip isn't the problem. Just in case, I burned another chip completely stock except for VATS off and it gives me the same problem. The only thing I'm not sure about is the knock sensor wiring. I understood that, if I got the right knock sensor, I wouldn't need to mess around with the ESC connector wiring. Is this correct? Do I need to do anything there still? Even if this is the case, would this prevent the car from running?
I should probably mention, since I'm cleaning up the engine bay, I removed the canister and all related vacuum lines. I wound up plugging a large port on the passenger side of the TB and a small one on the bottom driver side of the TB. I also plugged the EGR vacuum port and removed the EGR solenoid and all related vacuum lines. IIRC now there's only one vacuum line out of the plenum which was y-ed for the MAP on one side and for the one way valve for HVAC and the T to the vacuum ball reservoir on the other.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The esc is now using the memcals esc the blue wire going to the ks and the black wire get tied together and hooked to pin f9 of the ecm. The new ks will ohm 3.9k. The esc will have a left over ground and 12v switched that work great for adding a heated o2. Sarting with the basics do you have spark, injector pulse checked with a noid light, fuel pressure, ecm power bye checking to see if you can flash codes !

galletti

I was actually able to get it started by feathering the throttle like crazy. I got codes 34 and 43 which meant low voltage to MAP and ESC. I went back and checked my work and it turns out my MAP was wired incorrectly. Fixed that and jumped C and E on the ESC module. Got the thing to actually run a bit by feathering again but after doing that a while, it will actually idle for a couple seconds the stumble and die.
Just in case I did some diagnostics. I have 44 lbs of fuel pressure, all my injectors ohm well at 16 and are pulsing. Timing is set to +7-8* with EST disconnected.

UPDATE:
By using my new chip (AXXB without VATS, EGR and AIR) I was able to get the car to idle (very roughly) at about 1200 rpm. I can't set the IAC because, when I disconnect it, the car dies.
Also, there's little to no response when I give it gas. If any, it's very rough as well. At least it's running!!! I'll now follow the rough idel troubleshooting if I can find it.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Put a stock MEMCAL on the G3 adapter?

RBob.

galletti

Do you mean using the stock AXXF MEMCAL in place of the G3? Won't that activate VATS? If you mean putting the AXXF piggy backed onto the G3, then yes, that's done.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

It really sounds like your starving the engine for fuel and the feathering was pump shot. Injectors sitting in un stabilized fuel for more than 90 days will start to varnish and can stick the pintle or gum up the injector filter baskets.

galletti

Actually, it just occurred to me that I can data log using my APU1. I will most likely not be able to decipher the reading but I'll jump off that bridge when I come to it.

galletti

If this is the case, will they still tick? BTW, the exhaust smells very rich. I should probably take a look at my plugs to see if there's any wet ones. Might be a sign of an injector that's stuck open.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Two things to mention on your conversion the map needs a dedicated manifold vacuum signal. The tps will need to be adjusted up once you are able to set the minimum idle speed. Koeo .66-.76 .

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If injectors are stuck they will not tick, but that doesn't mean old fuel or contaminants isn't blocking fuel flow.

Darren1

Hey TP, I am pulling plugs and checking wires this weekend. Thought I would check my compression on all cylinders why I am at it. Is all I have to do is pull the ECM fuse while I crank engine to check compression???

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Yes, this. The symptoms sounded as though you hadn't.

RBob.

galletti

Good to know. I didn't know the TPS had to be higher than the usual .54. I just noticed that my tach is off because I did some data logging and I saw the TunerPro RT had the engine speed at 650 and my tach was at 1k to 1.5k. My guess is that 650 is good. In any case, I'll try the TPS and IAC again, but most likely it's my fuel system. I have a whole new system lying around (LS1 tank, pump, sending unit with level conversion, all AN lines and fittings and adapted fuel rail with AN fittings as well). I didn't plan on using it until I did my 350 upgrade in a few months. Since I'm gonna be messing around with the intake, I might as well also put in my Edelbrock lower TPI intake and runners and new injectors. Hopefully it'll run without too much messing around with the PROM. Thanks for all the help.

galletti

If I could somehow post the data I logged before, would you be able to tell if anything is amiss? What format would I need to post?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

@ Darren1 , Sorry for the delay in response im on dialup for over a week. Disconnect the coil power connecter. This will kill spark and the distributor from sending a pulse to the ecm so the injectors will not pulse.
@galletti The easiest log to read is Tunerpro rt, but if the engine is running and dying because you stated you set the timing it sounds like a lean miss. A log in OL will show sensor values but I find it more useful with O2 feedback in CL.

galletti

So, being able to only work on my car a few hours a week, (I have a demanding job and one year old twins) here's an update. A complete new fuel system was put in:
4th gen tank
90ohm level sender
Knocked out built in regulator
Racetronix performance fuel pump
All new fuel lines
Rear entry modified fuel rail
Built in regulator with cut spring (I was afraid it would leak if totally removed)
22lb injectors
External fuel pressure regulator
Intake was modified:
58mm throttle body
Ported Plenum
Edelbrock runners
Completed MAF to MAP conversion
Deleted EGR, Charcoal canister and SMOG pump
Chip was modified to delete VSS, EGR, and SMOG, (didn't delete CCP because of highway mode issue - will work on later). New injector constant was also programmed in.
Was finally able to fire up Saturday and it sounded good. Two issued I need to work on, my tach read 2500 at idle but I'm not sure if this is correct since my tach was a little wacky before. I was not able to data log because the laptop I use for this decided to develop a screen issue. In any case, I haven't set IAC and TPS so that's were I'll start. Also, the gauge on my external FPR reads 60 or above. This is a mistery since I know my plumbing is good. The only thing I can imagine is that the spring I left in the stock FPR combined with the External return style is having some ill effect. In any case, I won't know more until I can data log.