valve adjustment issue
#1
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 200C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
valve adjustment issue
i put together a 350 and put new heads on it. i found on numerous sites an order to adjust the rockers. my issue is that when i go by what everyone says i have some lifters at what looks like full lift. i did it anyway and turn the engine over to #6 at tdc and some of the rockers i had just adjusted were completley loose. i went back to make sure i did it right and i did. so i adjusted the other set and tried to turn over and it wouldnt. i didnt force it i just backed them all off completley. anyone have the proper order of adjustment or possibly just the procedure? http://www.thedirtforum.com/chevyvalves.htm that is the order that i went in. any help would be much appreciated. thanks
#3
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Re: valve adjustment issue
Can't answer about "numerous forums"; unfortunately the Internet doesn't have any kind of "reality filter". especially not on forums.
But, however all that may be...
The easiest program to use, that's still pretty reliable, is the "EOIC" one. Exhaust opening, intake closing.
Turn the engine by hand, using something other than the damper bolt, until you see an exhaust just beginning to open. Stop, and adjust that cyl's intake at that point. DO NOT attempt to determine zero lash by "twisting" the push rod; instead, jiggle it UP AND DOWN, and slowly tighten the rocker until it JUST BARELY no longer has any UP AND DOWN play in it. Tighten the nut ½ turn more. Turn the crank exactly 90° and do whatever is the next cyl in the firing order the same way. (like, if it happened that you adjusted #8, do #4 next, then #3, etc.) Go through all 8 cyls that way.
Then turn the engine until you see an intake fully open and come almost all the way back closed. Just before it reaches full closed, adjust that cyl's exhaust, using the same discipline you used for the intakes. Once again, do all 8, 90° at a time.
I see you are in the S Chicago burbs... I lived around there for a time, long ago.
But, however all that may be...
The easiest program to use, that's still pretty reliable, is the "EOIC" one. Exhaust opening, intake closing.
Turn the engine by hand, using something other than the damper bolt, until you see an exhaust just beginning to open. Stop, and adjust that cyl's intake at that point. DO NOT attempt to determine zero lash by "twisting" the push rod; instead, jiggle it UP AND DOWN, and slowly tighten the rocker until it JUST BARELY no longer has any UP AND DOWN play in it. Tighten the nut ½ turn more. Turn the crank exactly 90° and do whatever is the next cyl in the firing order the same way. (like, if it happened that you adjusted #8, do #4 next, then #3, etc.) Go through all 8 cyls that way.
Then turn the engine until you see an intake fully open and come almost all the way back closed. Just before it reaches full closed, adjust that cyl's exhaust, using the same discipline you used for the intakes. Once again, do all 8, 90° at a time.
I see you are in the S Chicago burbs... I lived around there for a time, long ago.
#4
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: valve adjustment issue
There are plenty of satisfactory methods for adjusting valves. The elegance in the procedure described by sofakingdom above is that it is a foolproof procedure for any SBC with hydraulic lifters.
#5
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Car: '86 TA
Engine: '74 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: valve adjustment issue
Rockers getting loose after you have adjusted them is normal; they will tighten up again once the engine is running and the lifters have oil pressure.
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