Cam help
08-12-2013, 12:35 PM
#1
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 200C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Cam help
i have a 350 bored .060 over. aluminum 2.02 heads and i have comp cams cam 12-242-2 which is the highest lift you can get without a stall speed. the intake lift is .477 and the exhaust is .480. i have comp 1.6 ratio rockers. I am aware that it roughly adds .033 lift. will i need to use a stall speed i've asked numerous people and i get either way. comp says no but the i talk to another person there to get a second opinion and they say yes. any help is appreciated thanks.
08-12-2013, 12:58 PM
#2
Re: Cam help
Lift doesnt matter. It all depends on where the power comes in at and how fast you want to get into that power band. Cam duration has more effect on where power is produced.
You can just about tune most cams around stock torque converter stall speeds which is 1600-2000 rpm. Driveability may be difficult to get right with large cams however but you can drive that way. The problem is going wide open throttle, the cam may start to produce most torque at say 4000 rpm and very little under 3000 rpm. If you have stock converter stall of 1600, then the car wont accelerate to its full potential. You would want something between 3000-4000 for that situation.
So it depends on powerband and what you can deal with. If its just a lazy street driver then you can maybe deal with stock torque converters. Thats if you can get motor running ok enough on stock converter stall speed.
If drag racing or street fun and you want to get the most acceleration advantage out of the motor that you can, up the stall speed with a custom converter.
A good converter with optimal stall speeed is the single best bang for the buck you can do for your car if you want fun factor and or drag race performance. Ofcourse you need some sticky tires and suspension to get whole package working.
Another example, stock ls1 fbodys dont really make good power til 3000+ rpm. Torque curve is abit soft under that. They come with 1600-1800 rpm converters even tho the engine design would show more acceleration from a stop and thru the gears with more stall speed. 3600-4000 works fantastic with those cars for best drag strip times, but if only a street car, its kinda easier to drive around with less converter. I did 3200 in mine and its awesome. Right combination of stall for drag yet streetable
You can just about tune most cams around stock torque converter stall speeds which is 1600-2000 rpm. Driveability may be difficult to get right with large cams however but you can drive that way. The problem is going wide open throttle, the cam may start to produce most torque at say 4000 rpm and very little under 3000 rpm. If you have stock converter stall of 1600, then the car wont accelerate to its full potential. You would want something between 3000-4000 for that situation.
So it depends on powerband and what you can deal with. If its just a lazy street driver then you can maybe deal with stock torque converters. Thats if you can get motor running ok enough on stock converter stall speed.
If drag racing or street fun and you want to get the most acceleration advantage out of the motor that you can, up the stall speed with a custom converter.
A good converter with optimal stall speeed is the single best bang for the buck you can do for your car if you want fun factor and or drag race performance. Ofcourse you need some sticky tires and suspension to get whole package working.
Another example, stock ls1 fbodys dont really make good power til 3000+ rpm. Torque curve is abit soft under that. They come with 1600-1800 rpm converters even tho the engine design would show more acceleration from a stop and thru the gears with more stall speed. 3600-4000 works fantastic with those cars for best drag strip times, but if only a street car, its kinda easier to drive around with less converter. I did 3200 in mine and its awesome. Right combination of stall for drag yet streetable
08-12-2013, 03:51 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicagoland south suburbs
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 200C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Re: Cam help
Lift doesnt matter. It all depends on where the power comes in at and how fast you want to get into that power band. Cam duration has more effect on where power is produced.
You can just about tune most cams around stock torque converter stall speeds which is 1600-2000 rpm. Driveability may be difficult to get right with large cams however but you can drive that way. The problem is going wide open throttle, the cam may start to produce most torque at say 4000 rpm and very little under 3000 rpm. If you have stock converter stall of 1600, then the car wont accelerate to its full potential. You would want something between 3000-4000 for that situation.
So it depends on powerband and what you can deal with. If its just a lazy street driver then you can maybe deal with stock torque converters. Thats if you can get motor running ok enough on stock converter stall speed.
If drag racing or street fun and you want to get the most acceleration advantage out of the motor that you can, up the stall speed with a custom converter.
A good converter with optimal stall speeed is the single best bang for the buck you can do for your car if you want fun factor and or drag race performance. Ofcourse you need some sticky tires and suspension to get whole package working.
Another example, stock ls1 fbodys dont really make good power til 3000+ rpm. Torque curve is abit soft under that. They come with 1600-1800 rpm converters even tho the engine design would show more acceleration from a stop and thru the gears with more stall speed. 3600-4000 works fantastic with those cars for best drag strip times, but if only a street car, its kinda easier to drive around with less converter. I did 3200 in mine and its awesome. Right combination of stall for drag yet streetable
You can just about tune most cams around stock torque converter stall speeds which is 1600-2000 rpm. Driveability may be difficult to get right with large cams however but you can drive that way. The problem is going wide open throttle, the cam may start to produce most torque at say 4000 rpm and very little under 3000 rpm. If you have stock converter stall of 1600, then the car wont accelerate to its full potential. You would want something between 3000-4000 for that situation.
So it depends on powerband and what you can deal with. If its just a lazy street driver then you can maybe deal with stock torque converters. Thats if you can get motor running ok enough on stock converter stall speed.
If drag racing or street fun and you want to get the most acceleration advantage out of the motor that you can, up the stall speed with a custom converter.
A good converter with optimal stall speeed is the single best bang for the buck you can do for your car if you want fun factor and or drag race performance. Ofcourse you need some sticky tires and suspension to get whole package working.
Another example, stock ls1 fbodys dont really make good power til 3000+ rpm. Torque curve is abit soft under that. They come with 1600-1800 rpm converters even tho the engine design would show more acceleration from a stop and thru the gears with more stall speed. 3600-4000 works fantastic with those cars for best drag strip times, but if only a street car, its kinda easier to drive around with less converter. I did 3200 in mine and its awesome. Right combination of stall for drag yet streetable
what size stall would you recommend and maybe a part number? ive got the stock converter from an 82 Z28 with the 200 trans. i plan to put a 3.43 gear in the rear end once the engine is done and im trying to figure out if i can afford or need to purchase a stall. i want to drive it on the street but i also like to haul down back roads and screw around. just trying to figure out the best set up.
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