IROCThe5.7L

I really like these valve covers. Do I have any other options besides buying new ones?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Re-"clock" the alternator.

IROCThe5.7L

Have any more details on how to do this?


Thanks!

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

remove 3 long bolts, slightly pull housing apart and rotate and put back together. Don't pull apart completely or you will have to reseat the brtushes (wujth a paper clip through the little hole in the back to retain them in place to get the shaft back in)

IROCThe5.7L

If I re-clock it the connector from the wiring harness will not reach. So I guess it's extend that, clearance the valve cover, or buy new ones. Hmm...

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have the same type covers/alt setup.
You need to ditch that block and bolt setup for a more normal stud and nut. That's what I did. you'll have to trim the stud down a bit but it will fit. (I also clearanced the valve cover just a touch for even more room.
Pic of the stud

IROCThe5.7L

Thanks for the help! Do they just sell that nut and stud? All the alternators for my car have that block and bolt setup. Which alternator do you have?

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

You can keep the block/bolt setup. I have even wider covers than those (GM perf. bowtie covers) and I simply cut off as much from the block as possible. I then took a stainless weld stuf (commonly used in wire/electrical panels) and TIG welded a spade to it (fabbed from stainless) and then threaded that in. I can now simply stick on a space conn. from the top. I insulated the connector from the cover with a small sheet of rubber.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

the threaded end is attached to the voltage regulator. You need to take the whole damn thing apart to change it. I think my powermaster alts have the stud not the block.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I've also heard of people notching the valve covers. On mine from Autozone I just ground down the stud since the valve covers are plastic polymer and I can't easily weld them.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I think a chevy truck has the stud in it from the factory.

Yes you can get just the stud but as stated, you have to take it apart but its not hard to do at all.

I still have the factory rubber boot on mine.

IROCThe5.7L

Thanks for the replying guys. Taking it apart won't be a problem. But I cannot find anywhere that just sells the stud?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Find a old school local alternator shop, they may just give you one or may even swap it out 4 next to nothing.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I reclocked mine and extended the wiring harness. It was the easiest and fastest way for me to get it done. Then i ended up switching valve covers to ones that wouldnt require me to do that lol. Oh well its clocked now and staying that way. The downside to clocking it however is you cant use the back supports for the alternator. Im not running any supports in the back for the alternator or the power steering pump and everything seems a-ok though.