sotodn1

Hey everybody its me again and Ive got another quick question. I searched on the boards and found some posting related to engine removal. Some people recommend removing the engine alone, other recommend engine and trans removal. I was wondering if anyone knew all the was involved with engine and trans removal. What all has to be disconnected? Is this an easier method because reaching the bolts at the back of the engine is a major pain in the ***. Thanks guys!

25thannivZ28

I'm not sure year your car is or if its TPI or carb'd but I just took out my Mini-rammed 350 and installed a Carb'd 406 in my 92. I took mine out with Transmission attached. For the same reason, it would be difficult to access bolts in back.

Now this is what I did, probably not in this chronological order either. Others may say its not how they'd do it but this is what I did. End result was a success. I'm no ASE Cert technician so if you have questions and concerns, consult with one. But because you're asking for a generalized procedure, this is what I did.

-Take driveshaft & torque arm out
-disconnect shift linkage
-disconnect trans mount
-remove radiator & A/C Condensor (I did to make room)
-Remove serpentine set up
-I took off the water pump too, it gives it more room bringing the engine out.
-Remove intake. (I did but probably not necessary)
-Remove distributor for sure if you choose to keep intake on.
-Remove exhaust headers/pipes
-If you have A/C, it needs to be discharged all in advance by a professional.
-Disconnect all coolant hoses, vacuum lines, electrical etc. (make sure you remember where it connects back up, label if you have to)
-Trans cooler lines, oil cooler lines need removing.
-Disconnect battery. (Probably be done first)
-Remove motor mounts (bolts)
-Make sure you keep all your bolts named as you take them out. Put them in a plastic cup identifying what the bolts are. (I did this then I bought new ones to replace all of them.)
-Take pictures if you have to, remember where all of your sensors go.
-Some cylinder heads holes have studs instead of bolts. remember which hole they go to (take pictures)
-Hook lift plate up to intake and get a lot of height to remove with an engine lift. (take off your hood)
-As it comes out, remember you're cross member is still attached at this point. Probably be best to remove that and have a floor jack down there to support it. I had additional helpers to guide it out from the transmission side.

I hope this helps. Reminder, consult with an ASE technician if you are uncertain. This was my first time, but I had all winter to do it so I took my time. I made a dialogue of what I did daily/weekly and planned every step carefully. I had to consider what else would be affected by the motor swap and what else had to be done to accommodate said motor.

FryeDaddy

iTrader: (1)

Read what he said, looks pretty much your answer. Missing the drainage of fluid (antifreeze, oil, tranny fluid)

I've token my engine and tranny out together and had no problems. With it being carb'd I think I had it very easy.

FryeDaddy

iTrader: (1)

Do you need the tranny out? Or just the engine?

IROCThe5.7L

Save yourself time and hassle. Remove and install with transmission attached.

FRMULA88

14MM swivel socket and 18" extension... to reach the upper bolts on the bell-housing. Means you can leave the trans in the car and save a bunch of time.

Once you remove the (3) flex plate bolts, you can remove the (6) bell-housing bolts... then just support the trans pan with blocks or a floor jack.

The engine will stay mated to the trans with the dowel pins... once you start starting lifting the motor out you can separate it from the trans.

The guys on overhaulin' do it as one piece because the front end of the car is off and they are replacing the entire drivetrain

The factory does it one pieces installing the drivetrain from underneath..


trying this at home without help is dangerous not mention you will bang up the firewall etc etc.

sotodn1

Thanks everybody for all the advice! I think I'm going with just removing the engine alone, after all it seems all the bell housing bolts are actually fairly easy to get except the upper drivers side thats a PITA.

FRMULA88

that's where you use the swivel socket and extension.

just take your time.

ASE doc

FWIW, all threads into the block are standard size and the heads on the bell bolts are actually 9/16" but 14mm will work. You need a chrome u-joint style swivel socket ffor one bolt on the driver's side as the body is too close to clear an impact swivel socket. 25th anniv had some good input as far as removing plenty of bolt on to gain the needed clearance. Always remove the radiator so you don't punch a hole in it and remove the water pump for added clearance at the front. Remove the dist for added clearance to the firewall.

Pulling the motor out this way is the easy part. Getting it back in not so easy. The mounts will flex and let you raise the motor off of them. When you go to lower the motor back in, you will have fun getting both front mounts aligned. I have crawled under the car and unfastened the rear trans mount for extra clearance. Be careful with what you use to support the trans. The pan can be damaged.

MMroc86

Getting ready to do this on a 92 v6 camaro engine+tranny removal... Going off of the instructions posted by 25thanni.

My question is: Once I remove the torque arm & drive shaft will the tranny need to be supported by a jack/jackstands? Or will it stay in place? & will the rearend need something to support it?

Guest

Holy crap just remove both from the bottom. SOOOOO easy.

z28bob

ya thats the ticket swivel n long reel long extention

Guest

The tranny will be supported as long as it is still bolted to the engine. It shouldn't hardly move at all. The rearend will be supported as well, it won't budge.

25thannivZ28

Keep the cross member up until you're ready to pull it out. Then yes, put floor jack under it.

25thannivZ28

I forgot to mention, I had the car lifted (on jackstands) as high as possible. I think I had 21" jack stands under it and a tall ceiling in my garage. This way when I took the motor out vertically, the back end of the transmission had room to pivot downwards instead of bouncing off the concrete floor.

IROCThe5.7L

With all the wiring that runs there I didn't have success doing that. Removing the distributor gave me more than enough room to get to the top two bolts. All the rest I got from the bottom.

IrocRoadRacer

I removed my L98 today without the trans. It was easier than removing my 460 out of my 1963 ford. There was 6 bolts holding on bellhousing, and 3 bolts holding on the flywheel to the converter. I took off the intake, the distributor, the bolts on the flywheel then the bellhousing, removed the starter, disconnected the exhaust, removed all the wiring, took off the pulleys, removed the mounts, removed the radiator, and the motor came out like nothing.Try to put something under the transmission to hold it up when separating from the motor. I did this all in a 7 feet space which seems too tight to manuver the engine w/trans.

sotodn1

Thanks for all the responses everyone, I ended up just removing the engine alone. Being that I am working alone I figured this would be easier.