lonestar7

iTrader: (1)

I'm starting to get a little oil on the plugs in some of the cylinders of my 1988 Formula 350. It's just at 120,XXX miles now, and I suspect the valve guide seal are starting to wear out. Interested in getting suggestions for which are the best seals to get. Looking on line, there seem to be a few different types available for the 5.7L TPI.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Viton seal work well.

lonestar7

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know what size seals are needed for a 1988 5.7L TPI?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Fel-Pro p/n SS72527 for the intake and Fel-Pro p/n SS72877 for the exhaust.

lonestar7

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I just ordered the Fel- Pro seals.



A few questions, having never done this on a SBC, do the o-rings go below or above the the blue seal rings? And what are the white cylinders at the bottom of the photo used for?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The O-rings go on after the retainer and before the keepers, in the lower groove. Frankly I don't bother with them; all they do is keep the oil that pools in the keeper well in the retainer, from running down the valve stem. Not of much value when using positive seals.

The white things are tools. You put them over the valve stems to keep the keeper grooves from nicking the seals as you slide them over the stems. Helps to clean up the burrs on the grooves with some #400 sandpaper too.

lonestar7

iTrader: (1)

If I can get everything together, I'm going to start on the job this weekend. I have what is called a "Universal" overhead valve spring compressor, will this be good enough ok should I get one of the specialty spring compressors made for the SBC that I see on line?. How likely are the spring retainers to break, should I get a few spares just in case?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The retainers will not break but they will develop wear on the outside and on the tab that goes into the valve. the are cheap enought to replace.Sounds like this will be a on the car job. If thats the case have a magnet to help remove the keepers. Gently tapping on the stem with a dead blow hammer. A hand spring compresser and a piece of rope to put in each cylinder or a valve holder adapter that will hook to a air compressor is a better method.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/ph...ve-holder.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Hand-Tool...-/230748339395
Just for example, The stud leverage style compressors are a breeze to use as well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Steel-Stud-Mount-for-3-8-7-16-Rocker-Studs-9-Handle-/111084798020?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19dd2b8044&vxp=mtr

eseibel67

I have 3 different styles of valve spring compressors, and I hate them all for different reasons.

I've never seen the stud leverage type before, but I like the look of it. Will it work on all 16 valves on a TPI with A/C?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I'm not sure ho long the handle will stick past the head. On the pass side there might be a issue bye the heater box and on the drivers side IIRC should be ok doing number 7. You get a work out with the **** style alright . Most of them you can pop off the hand **** and use a ratchet but its tiring for sure. Doing it off the car is so much easier almost worth popping off the heads.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

"Almost" my gluteus maximus...

Tell you what: you do em on the car; I pop em off, do em, and put em back on. Come back in 90 days. We'll see who actually "saved" time.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You Try getting much done with a neck that looks like this !

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not red enough.