383 cam selection
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
383 cam selection
Alright, so I've gotten enough cash to possibly start building a new motor; a 385 stroker. I've got a block that is fresh and ready for assembly. The kit I'm looking at will put me at ~10.8:1 compression with my current cylinder heads (Dart Iron Eagles 200cc heads with 1.6 rockers)..
so the question is this: is my new cam I ordered for my 355 going to be adequate for it? I haven't installed it yet, but I ask this because maybe I should step it up on the duration before I piece it all together? I have a 2500 stall converter from Hughes right now, but I will probably be buying a 3600 from Chris @ Circle D fairly soon regardless of which cam I use.
I essentially bought the Lunati 401a6 solid flat cam, but from Bullet Racing. Specs:
Solid, fair idle. Excellent Pro Street cam for 355-400 cubic inch motors. Needs 2500-3000 RPM stall converter, headers, 10:1 compression ratio, and 3.73 or better gearing.
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .518/.530
•LSA/ICL: 110/104
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .026/.026
•RPM Range: 2500-6800
Only difference is I had them grind it on a 106 LSA instead of a 110. Because this is a solid flat tappet, how would this affect the increased cubes from a 385? Would I be better off we going a step up or is the cam I have now perfect for it? This will be a street/strip motor. This is the 401b1 I was looking at:
Solid, rough idle. Good Pro Street or Limited Sportsman cam for 355-406 cubic inch motors. Needs 2800-3500 RPM stall converter, headers, 10:1 compression ratio or better, and 4.10 gearing.
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 280/288
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 247/255
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .525/.540
•LSA/ICL: 106/100
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .026/.026
•RPM Range: 2800-7000
My question is this: Is it worth the few extra degrees of duration to spend an additional $200? I ask this because I'm actually new to solids, so I have no idea how much that added duration will help in a 385 stroker.
so the question is this: is my new cam I ordered for my 355 going to be adequate for it? I haven't installed it yet, but I ask this because maybe I should step it up on the duration before I piece it all together? I have a 2500 stall converter from Hughes right now, but I will probably be buying a 3600 from Chris @ Circle D fairly soon regardless of which cam I use.
I essentially bought the Lunati 401a6 solid flat cam, but from Bullet Racing. Specs:
Solid, fair idle. Excellent Pro Street cam for 355-400 cubic inch motors. Needs 2500-3000 RPM stall converter, headers, 10:1 compression ratio, and 3.73 or better gearing.
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .518/.530
•LSA/ICL: 110/104
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .026/.026
•RPM Range: 2500-6800
Only difference is I had them grind it on a 106 LSA instead of a 110. Because this is a solid flat tappet, how would this affect the increased cubes from a 385? Would I be better off we going a step up or is the cam I have now perfect for it? This will be a street/strip motor. This is the 401b1 I was looking at:
Solid, rough idle. Good Pro Street or Limited Sportsman cam for 355-406 cubic inch motors. Needs 2800-3500 RPM stall converter, headers, 10:1 compression ratio or better, and 4.10 gearing.
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 280/288
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 247/255
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .525/.540
•LSA/ICL: 106/100
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .026/.026
•RPM Range: 2800-7000
My question is this: Is it worth the few extra degrees of duration to spend an additional $200? I ask this because I'm actually new to solids, so I have no idea how much that added duration will help in a 385 stroker.
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Car: '86 Bird, 96 ImpalaSS, 98 C1500XCab
Engine: LG4, LT1, L31
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Tors, 4.88 spool, 3.73 Eaton
Re: 383 cam selection
Stay with the one you already have. Even if the $200 weren't a factor, I'd still recommend the same.
The stroker will handle that 106 LSA just fine.
The stroker will handle that 106 LSA just fine.
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