GreenCamaro13

Ok so i ran into a problem.. the fuel pump cord doesnt fit the one it had on and its so complicating. please someone help what should i do? will it fit or did i get the wrong one! no! please. the original has 3 outlets and the fuel pump had inlets the new one has outlets. i will upload photos and show you guys to get ideas thank you all
. THANK YOU ALL YOU ARE GREAT!

GreenCamaro13

this is the old outlets that dont fit with the new inlets i recieved
These are the new outlets i recieved and other cords that came along
and this is how its supposed to look

any idea why these are different or am i doing this wrong?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

In tank wiring shouldnt need to be replaced. If the old one doesnt fit the new pump then cut and solder the connector on there. The cheapo multicolored shrink tubing from any parts store is fuel safe

GreenCamaro13

alright got it together and now just waiting to put it up tommorow. witsh me luck, this will hopefully work

GreenCamaro13

Ok so Theres a Slight problem, any help would be Appreciated. the Fuel pump Float wire that is connected to it broke off but i managed to get it back on but what im worried about is that i have no gasket for it so im worried i will cause a shock and blow up myslef :0 plz help anyone would i be ok or is this a risk??

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Its not going to "blow up" but the gas gauge wont work right

Find a friend whos good with electronics and he should be able to solder it back on for you. You need the grommet though

Impaqt

iTrader: (1)

Solder and h eatshrink is your best bet. if you feel the connection is solid, you could also use some Amalgamating tape to seal the connection.

http://www.acterminals.com/at.htm

not sure what gasket you are refering too....

GreenCamaro13

Alrighhty, i put the tank up put gas and tried starting it. as soon as i tried to start it the gasoline went to the engine but the intake valve was broken from the middle so i got a new one, now i fixed it and it wont start . im thinking its the spark plugs that arent in order. im goign to check tommorow. this was a problem that i ran into today. it was starting with starter fluid but wouldnt maintain and i changed the wires in the order autozone told me and now all it does it turn. any suggestions?? plz and thankyou!

GreenCamaro13

Any help would be appreciated thankyou!

flash2042

if it started with starter fluid but not on its own then it should have spark. you said it has sat for years AND that the fuel filter was clogged. maybe the fuel lines themselves are clogged as well.

GreenCamaro13

no the fuel reaches the engine, i checked the fuel control valve and fuel purged out of it so thats good. well now it doesnt even want to start with the starter fluid, for osome reason. im thinking its because i undid the wires and did them the way the book says and now it just cranks but doesnt even sound like it wants to start

rgarcia63

Well even with an incorrect firing order there should be some response like after/back fire.
I suppose you didn't document the order the wires were in before you changed them.
Having proper fuel pressure doesn't mean it will start, just that it should start.
If you have spark, you should have injector pulse, but check for it with a Noid light.
First, with the key on check for 12v on 1 of the 2 pins of an injector connector on both sides of the engine.
If no 12v fix that first, otherwise plug noid light into same connectors and crank, if no pulsating light is seen, check for wiring problems, last would be a faulty ECM.

GreenCamaro13

how would i check the ecm? and any range cost for it? well today was raining all day so not much done.

GreenCamaro13

Ok This is My Results From What Ive Done: Ok So I know what engine i have 100%.. i Have a **Multi-Port Fuel Injection 2.8L V6** And the change I did was get the Spark plug order into what i think is the correct order. now y problem is i dont know if it is or not. this is what happens when i tried to turn it on:::

~~Log:
Time 3:09 PM
Just changed spark plug wires into a better order now it doesnt just crank, it now seems closer to turning on, but when i tried to turn it on the car seemed like if it pushed back out the force and it made my air intake where it is connected to the air filter pop off.
-- So may this be the Fuel Pressure Regulator being unable to open do to the time it has sat or may it be that i dont have the spark plug wires in correct order? thank you all::

85T/A350

I cant really help much on your problems but I can tell you that if the motor is indeed a 2.8 then it is not original. Either that or the car is not a 91.

GreenCamaro13

yea i think its a replaces motor on it, i think all this time the easiest thing would be to buy a new carb engine but its ok because im not quiting, the engine it has now is pretty dang easy to work with so im not complaining.

'87IROCZOWNER69

iTrader: (1)

Did you hook up the throttle cable yet?

GreenCamaro13

yes, everything is still connected the only thing not connected is the battery, i plan on removing the regulator and put the new one i bought for 40 Dollars.

GreenCamaro13

Alright so im still at a Halting Point. I dont Know what to do. if anyone has any suggestions on what i can do to make diagnostics or any help. this is whats happens when i try to start the car:
It cranks but makes a noise like this: it cranks half way and the other half is a less powered crank so its making 2 noises. and thats about all. any ideas? might the fuel not be good enough? because fuel reaches the fuel pressure tester or is it as i suspected, a bad fuel pressure regulator that is clogged up.?

GreenCamaro13

alright well, today a friend came and checked the car with me. so what he said was that fuel isnt reaching the injectors. we sprayed starter fluid and it made an explosion in the EGR. so what he said is that i should remove the intake manifold to get to the injectors and from there check if fuel is reaching and also check if the fuel block is blocked. anyone know how to go about this? i dont know how to remove it and i dont want to damage it/ thank
you

GreenCamaro13

.

GreenCamaro13

Ok so i took off the Top of my Intake Manifold, now the question is where do i go from here to make sure everything works. how do i remove the fuel injectors and any advice please anyone.
here iS a pic of what im working with

GreenCamaro13

Updated ^

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I dont think you should have removed the upper intake manifold. From what you're describing it sounds like the firing order is incorrect now. You said you changed the firing order to a "better" order, but what exactly was that order? The factory GM 60* V6 engines (2.8/3.1/etc..) is 1-2-3-4-5-6. If it was starting with fluid down the throttlbe body and not backfiring, than I would say the timing was fine and you shouldn't have needed to alter it at all. That motor is a 3.1 by the way. The 2.8's upper intake read 2.8 multi-port on it, while the 3.1 was blank.

Since you have the upper intake off though, you should let the pump run and press in the center of the test port on the fuel rail to see if fuel squirts out of it. If it squirts out than you have gas to your injectors, you could even rent a fuel pressure gauge and check to see that the motor is getting the proper fuel pressure from the pump. The valve is the nipple on the upper portion of your fuel rail, in relation to your latest picture.

GreenCamaro13

i pushed in the fuel pressure valve and it did shoot out but doesnt seem to reach fuel injectors. as for the backfire, when i put the starting fluid into the throttle body it cranked and then backfired through the EGR. is there chance that it might be the fuel block plugged or the fuel pressure regulator? or any ideas?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Did it backfire before you adjusted the firing order?

GreenCamaro13

no it did not. might this be why? but even before i changed the firiing order it still didnt start, this is why i changed the order hoping it would be better.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

You should re-set the firing order just to be on the safe side. It is 1-2-3-4-5-6 on that engine, set the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke, pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing, and that is number one. You can make sure its on the compression stroke bu pulling the #1 spark plug out and put your finger on the hole and have it slowly cranked over. When the air pushes your finger out from the hole, thats the compression stroke. Do not pull the distributor out though.

GreenCamaro13

alright, do you by chance know what way it will be facing because my friend took off dis. cap and changed the rotor and i dont think he put it in the right direction. the order of the car facing the car is this right:

left side 135 and on right 2 4 6 right?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Normally the factory faces the rotor in cylinder ones general direction. But considering how you don't know who's been in this car or what they've done, it can be anywhere. Just set it to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing, and that post is your #1.

I found this pic to explain a little better:

GreenCamaro13

sorry but not sure what TDC is? ok ill do that ASAP tommorow. so how would i go at removing the injectors to get them cleaned? because they have been on there sitting for about 8 years and im sure they are full of gunk, considering that the fuel filter was completely clogged up.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

TDC is an abbreviation for Top dead center.

Just remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail in, and wiggle the rail back and forth until it pulls out. Just be very careful because you can tear the injector o-rings. If you have a compressor, shoot air around all the injectors before you pull them out so you dont get dirt down your motor.

GreenCamaro13

ok i see. i will do this tommorow, as for the compresion o you think that the canned air would work at all because i dont know a way to get to one without paying

GreenCamaro13

do you think that putting fresh oil into the car would affect it turning on and off? i was going to do it after so i can raise it. on that note, the oil has a slight smell of gas?

and another problem that seems to be bugging me is that my radiator isnt taking in the fluid. i changed the thermostat and still doesnt. i poured fluid into the radiator fill tank and hasnt been moved.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

A can of air should work in a pinch, just be careful. What I do when I am working on a dirty motor is have a shop vac ready, and before re-installing the parts I vacuum as much of the dirt/debris/grime off that I can to make it go smoother.

If the oil smells like gas, you should replace it either way.

The overflow bottle will only drain back into the cooling system when the system is hot and pressurized. With the car cold, the cap is shut and wont allow the coolant frm the tank to enter. Fill it at the radiator itself (When cold).

GreenCamaro13

ok thank you so much. i will get on this tommorow and update, thank you for your time. much regards.

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Not a problem, let me know how it goes.

GreenCamaro13

ok well i mesgd bradley but so everyone knows whats going on, i got fuel rail off and it was full of gas, i checked componets and all was good. but the problem was the injectors. i did a little test by not putting the inejjectors into the motor but just leaving them hooked to fuel rail and connected them, i then connected the fuel block and rail and i turned the key and nothing came out of the injectors. i called around to see if anyone knew how to clean them and nothing. im not sure why fuel isnt getting out of injectors. please someone help :/

m16a2r

There are plenty of videos on youtube that tells u how to clean them, but before that check the resistance on the injectors,make sure they still good

GreenCamaro13

how would i do this? not sure what resistors are?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Have a friend crank the engine over and watch the injectors.

GreenCamaro13

k. haha i was doing it the wrong way but thanks brad, god i cant wait till i learn more. is there a way to check the ECM? or signs that it isnt working?

m16a2r

You gonna need a regular multimeter,u gonna be checking for ohms,put your meter at 2k ohms, connect the leads of themeter to the injector prongs and record the results, if its around 12 and lower that means u need new injectors

rgarcia63

For a quick check you can use a NOID light (about $15) plugged into one of the injector connectors then crank the engine if the light pulsates then the ECM is OK. If it doesn't light then either the fuses are blown or the ECM is faulty, assuming no wiring issues.

GreenCamaro13

nice, thank you. i will get a noid light hopefully tommorow.

GreenCamaro13

OK SSSOOOO, today i checked the injectors with a noid light and it flashed as its suppoeed too. changed firing order as was told to, the RIGHT way. i put everything back on toether after cleaning the houseing up alot. i changed the oil/ the engine only had about 5 jars of oil, and was EXTREMELY BLACK. i lowered it and cranked it, NOTHINGGGG so noow im going to take the car to get cleaned internally at a local shop and see what they say. i also tried the erroe code trick to read manually. i will be posting a link to a video of what haoppened here shortly. thankyou ALL. Please Any FeedBack.

GreenCamaro13

here is a link to what happened, soory but my video flipped :/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cLiw...IIzi100l2389Zi

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

If the noid light flashes, but no fuel comes out of the injector, the injector is clogged and must be replaced. Of course this is assuming your fuel pump is now working correctly, and you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

It doesn't look like you had the pins jumpered right on the ALDL port. Its pins A & B on the diagram on the last page. You will see definite long and short pauses between flashes on the check engine light. The first code you should see is code 12. The light will flash. 1...pause...1...2....pause...1...pause 1...2 and so on. It repeats each code twice.

GreenCamaro13

on the port these are the ones i jumped:

1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12

i jumped 6 and 12 to get codes with a hair pin

TreeFiddy

Hair pins are coated in laquer and probably won't conduct - use a paperclip or piece of wire.