StevenB L98/LS1

Alright 91 TA. Always had this issue ever since i bought the car for about 3 or so more years now, but it use to only happen once a year and now its almost daily. Problem is i turn the key all lights of coarse on as should, but turn the key and absolutely nothing but hearing the fuel pump kick over. Now im thinking its either a bad solenoid on the starter, or its a VATS issue. Thing is it seems as if now if you have the car sit for a couple of hours or over night it wont attempt to start when starter is cold. But when you drive the car all day stop and go as much as you want everywhere its starts up instantly. First time i hit the starter underneath the car and it started up ( maybe just a weird coincidence ) because lately if you hit it, its still the same, nuthing. BUT if you just try to start it and nuthing but if you wait for 10 minutes or longer it will start instantly like nuthing was ever wrong with it. i have the dual cat L98 and the starter is pain to get too, but i bench tested it at work and it hit off everytime and seem to put out good.

Has anyone else had the similar issue? Im leaning towards the vats just because when nuthing happens and your turning the key the security light stays on. Now i know its not the key part because i used the spare key which is original too with my regular one and still did nothing.

Any input or thoughts is much appreciated

skibum2100

Sounds more like a VATS problem. As if the connection with the key is only intermittent. I had a similar issue that was solved with a new ignition cylinder. You could also just hard wire a resistor with the same resistance as the key "chip," under the dash, replacing the wiring that goes up the column to the cylinder.

Hope this helps.

StevenB L98/LS1

Would there be more of a issue with resistance in the key or more towards the lock cylinder? Ive heard of the solutions you mentioned and id to keep it original as possible and less of a hack job. So basically need a new chip and cylinder? Im worried its not the lock cylinder.

skibum2100

I am concerned that the key may not stay in contact with the "sensor" in the ignition lock cylinder. My original key resistor was worn smooth and the new one has nice sharp corners/edges (a new cut key from the dealer is required to match the new cylinder, solves all problems at once). It certainly is a pain fishing the two wires attached, down the length of the steering column, though.

The best way to test the ignition lock cylinder, may be to temporarily bypass it. I realize you would like to keep your car original, so you could trace the wires to the 2 pin connector under the dash. Disconnect the cylinder half and jumper the chassis side of the connector with a resistor. Make sure that the resistor is the same value as the key. This would maintain the integrity of your vehicle and bypass the cylinder sensor. If your car has no issues running this way, then maybe get a new cylinder.

Hope this helps.

StevenB L98/LS1

I believe your right, I think im having a contact issue in the cylinder. i still drove the car today and it had no issues going wrong with it. I still took apart the column and found the wires and tested it which seems fine. I put it back together and noticed a loose wire so i fixed that and it seems to be ok and starts, but i noticed this before that sometimes i would put the key in the cylinder ( the attempts it wouldn't start ) with the door open and i didnt hear the warning buzzy noise it gives if you leave the key in the ignition with the door open. So i wiggled the key around and the buze would come on in a certain position, and then i'd let go it would go off. But it was only intermittent the same times it would not do anything. But everytime it does start i hear that buzzy noise. So only conclusion i can think of that there is bad contact in the cylinder.

1roc89z28

its simple. if the seurity light stays on when u have the egnition on. then it is vats. wait 4 mins. then try again only on ignition whit out starting. and if the security light is on again it wont start. but if its gone it should start. that how u know its a vats issue

camaronewbie

Could be any number of issues. On mine - the neutral safety switch wiring connector wouldn't always stay connected well, making a bad contact - I always got 12v+ on the purple wire, but not always enough amperage to actually run the starter - a zip tie fixed my issue. Run through this diagnostic: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38

StevenB L98/LS1

Thanks for the diagram camaronewbie. Im still looking around at wires, because something can still be loose. Ive been starting the car a lot today with no issues and letting it sit for a number of hours when put back together. It could be the loose wire i found. Still not sure until it happens again. I read some place on here that if the vats would not start the car, it would not allow possible start again for 5 or so minutes? It just goes both ways im finding interesting different possibilities of what the cause could possibly be. I do appreciate everyone's input as im still new to learning the vats.