fishyz

My 305 tbi seems to start when it ever it feels like it. Some times it will turn over and start and sometimes nothing happens. It has a new battery, altenater, starter, and the clutch safty switch has been checked. A mechanic friend of my dad thinks it might be the ignition switch. The only problem is I can't find where it is. Can some one please point me in the right direction? Thanks.

TreeFiddy

It's mounted on top of the column, under the dash, about halfway down. It mounts together with the dimmer switch, both are actuated by long rods.

fishyz

How do I get it out to replace it?

camaronewbie

Remove underdash panel. Remove two nuts that hold the underdash panel bracket in place. Remove two more nuts that hold steering column up to dash, and let steering column fall down to seat. Reach in as far as you can, you will barely reach the ignition switch on top of the column. On an auto, there is a safety cable that runs from the shiftewr to the ignition switch - nopt sure what is on a manual car. But if the same exists for a manual car, there is a phillips screw on the back side of the ignition switch that has to be removed, in order for the switch to seperate and remove the cable from the switch.

Make sure you keep ALL of your ignition switch parts until successful reinstall of a new switch - I had to use parts from my old one with my new one to make that stupid cable shifter thing work right.

It's a PITA job - take a deep breath, and good luck!

TreeFiddy

GM made this one a right pain. To get to the switches, you'll have to remove any under dash plastic panels. Then if needed, remove the two bolts holding the column to the body, and drop the column down for better access to the top side. Might even have to remove the column u-bracket, as the switches are directly behind it.

Once there - remove the park lock cable from the rear of the ig switch. Pull the ig plugs and note the connector's orientation. The ignition and dimmer switches share a couple of common mount bolts; can't remember which one mounts on top of the other, but both will probably have to come out. They will have to be manouvered off the actuating rods.

To re-install - hook the rods back into both switches, install together, and do the bolts up finger tight. You will have to finagle each switch back and forth individually with your 3 or 4 hands, so the ig key and hi-beam stalk operate their respective switches correctly with no slop in the rods, or rods falling out. It's a real pita. Once it works ok, tighten bolts down & reassemble the rest.

Pic below shows the switches, top is the ig, lhs is the dimmer.

Edit: Ha camaro - dont believe u beat me to that one, was typing (& eating lunch) for half an hr!

Edit edit: Woops yeah didnt notice T5, park lock cable probably won't apply.

fishyz

I got that changed and the car still wont start reliably so I don't know what's wrong with it now

camaronewbie

Check your neutral safety switch, and the connector for it (above the clutch I think on your 5speed car). On my auto car, my NSS connector wasn't staying connected well to my NSS, and thus starting was always hit or miss for me too. After replacing everything (including the NSS) to no avail, one day I stumbled on the fact that the NSS connector just wasn't making a good contact - a zip tie and 3 minutes later and my 4+ year problem was solved!

fishyz

If what your thinking of is the switch that the pedal pushes in when the clutch is pushed in then i've checked that with a multimeter and the switch was ok put I can see how the connection can be bad. I'll check that next.

lunaticinaZ

When nothing happens, is the security light on? this could be a vats problem. when nothing happens do you mean the starter dosen't turn? like dead nothing happens?

fishyz

The security light turns off and and the fuel pump and all the lights come on. But the starter doesn't start when I say "nothing happens"

lunaticinaZ

Check your start enable relay. Should be behind the drivers kick panel. If they go bad no power to the starter. You can ground the BLACK W/YELLOW STRIPE wire and she will start if that is the problem

OldMan89

Not to take over this thread, however I have a similar issue. My 89 RS with a 305 top and 350 bottom will only crank if the interior is cool. if the inside of the car is too hot, no cranky. I have also replaced the following:
Starter, Alternator, Ignition switch, by passed VATS, IAC.

Looking to ESC next. Thoughts?

TreeFiddy

Fishy - sounds like you've replaced everything. Have you checked the battery cables and engine/chassis grounds? Pay particular attention to the terminals on both ends, look for any signs of corrosion or dirt. Give then a good tug, see if one cracks or breaks.

fishyz

I took a wire brush to the connections the starter and it started several times the wouldn't again. Then it just started now

Gloveside45

Can you elaborate on this, what is the start enable relay? Can you upload a picture of what this looks like and where it is exactly? I have the same symptom on my 88 automatic, dash lights up, buzzer sounds, no crank, no click. Starter jumper started the car, so batt, alt and starter motor are fine. Thanks.