joeyspagz

so this morning i took my car for a drive and for the first time it spun tires without the brake but i just drove it now and its back to its slowness ....could it be because its was cold? How could i get it to do it all the time!

taonindo

jack the air pressure up..harder tires wont grab as good

Lumarus

Colder engines (After startup) typically have a lil bit more power than after opperating temp. get a lil tune up for a bit more power, New hotter burning spark plugs, new plug wires, get a lower opperating thermostat. Should cost rite at 100$ to do. TIP: to spin tires at dead stop without hot breaking, make a rite turn. if ur car is limited slip the rite rear tire is gona spin much more easily than the left side.

i had an 84 camaro with 2.8 v6, For burnout contests i used to keep my car cold (Not Running it for bout an hour before i showed out such as like for gurls in a parking lot lol) id remove my air filter entirely for more air flow (many whouldnt recomend this because of the smoke the tire produced, but i didnt care too much for my tiny 2.8) id also spray soap/bleach (More bleach than soap) mixture in for more slip and more smoke on my rite rear tire. Not too tire friendly but fun to show out. cant say it really impresses too many females tho bahahaha.

joeyspagz

i got new plugs, wires , 160 stat and a posi..im gonna try more air

zraffz

4.56s will spin 'em pretty good ;D

Guest

All you need is a 2500-stall torque converter that retains the lockup feature. Summit Racing has some in the $250 price range. And since the lockup is retained, and since your gearing isn't changed, your highway MPG will stay the same as it has been.

torque_is_good

finish the milk in the fridge, put water into the 1 gallon jug, pour water on road, place tires in water and floor it; they'll spin

affliction1

gas and break until revs start spinnin them let off break and floor it they will spin,unless you have like 44 hp and 38 tq

Guest

With the converter you won't need the brakes, or water. That saves wear and tear on the brakes.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The stock TPI doesnt make much power. Only marginally better than the stock TBI engines. Really it needs a full 3" exhaust, maybe some intake and head mods, and a cam to really start to make any sort of power.

I remember my stock 305 had a lot of trouble getting the wheels to spin. I still have my 15" rims with 225/60/R15 Firestones, and now its the opposite problem. All they do is spin, even with 2.77's and LS. Doesnt matter if its in first or second. Any sort of quick launch type start will result in lots of wheel spin. Once you do actually start making power, wheelspin will become more of a nuisance.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

I also wouldnt put any high stall TC in with a stock engine. The stock TPI poops out after 4500 RPM. Save the converter until you make the mods that require its use, like a good cam.

At this point, the single best thing you could do for power would be to ditch the entire factory exhaust and get headers and a 3" catback. That will help free up a good deal of power.

It could also be an issue of the MAF being dirty. Autoparts stores sell mass airflow sensor cleaner. You can clean the sensing elements and sometimes gain some power if theyre dirty.

torque_is_good

empty milk jug and water from parent's faucet costs zero. The OP wants to spin the tires and I provided a correct answer that costs nothing.

Now, if the youngster asked how to make more power then that is an entirely different topic and one that is covered a gazillion times in this site and if the young'un uses the search feature he will be rewarded with hours and hours of helpful reading.

duf6

It would cost a little more than the water but tireshine on the tread works good.
When I worked at a car dealership we always did that.

joeyspagz

this young`un lol wants the power without all these things because i know my car is already capable of doing it. just how

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The simplest way is with a full length exhaust and Chip tuning. That should get an extra 30 HP or so by freeing up the exhaust and allowing you to run a little more timing to achieve peak torque output.

Guest

Moderator or not, that's neither necessary or helpful.
OP: Just do the converter. That WILL get you to your goal, all by itself. The exhaust system helps with high-rpm breathing, not torque off idle. A chip might give you another 10 ft-lbs of torque off idle, but only if you use premium unleaded gas, and a cooler thermostat, which causes increased engine wear.
I know it can be difficult to wade through all the wrong answers looking for the correct one, but that's when it helps to understand what each different modification will do.
There is no secret driving style that'll keep you from having to buy something, except maybe the neutral-drop, also called neutral slam, but that will destroy your transmission sooner than later.

torque_is_good

this isn't a p'ng contest or my d$#ck is bigger than yours. OP, you asked simply about "spinning the tires". You then go on to claim that your car "makes plenty of power"; ok, I'll bite, then why isn't it "spinning the tires"?

My suggestion, bring it to a dyno, slap down the $75 and do a few pulls. I think you'll be SHOCKED when you find out just how LITTLE torque and HP you are putting to the ground. You then have actual FACTS as to what you have. You'll then come back with informed questions asking things such as "I presently have xxx and would like to achieve yyy, how could I do that for $$$$ or is that not enough $$$ "

joeyspagz

Well before a war starts doesn't a 305 have the power to spin them stock? Im 18 BTW

torque_is_good

that's too open of a question. A 305 what? You can't just say a stock 305 TPI from 198x. The engine is probably tired. You'd be surprised how much power gets lost over the years due to clearances and weakening components.

305 is just the displacement. Heck, the new 302's from Ford will shred tires.

Then you get into the kind of tires that you have. If you have 195's or 215's in width then you have a better chance of "peeling out" than if you had 275's or 315's, or drag radials.

If you just want tires to spin so you get that awesome, attention grabbing sound, then buy cars with a manual transmission. You can feather the clutch or drop it and get the tires spinning even on a 90 HP older toyota truck.

You need to take into consideration that 3rd gen Camaros were designed for what were dark times for automobile enthusiasts. Sheesh, look at the L-48 engine that were in late 70's vettes making a whopping 195HP at 4k rpms!!!!

It wasn't until the LT1/LT4 that significant changes occured and then revolutionary changes with the LS.

joeyspagz

its a 88 trans am 305 tpi 109xxx miles cold air intake and flowmaster exhaust

uummm

i got a 305 tbi, stock with the exception of headers with 2.5" duals and msd 6al box. it does have the t5 though, but reguardless i could burn the tires pretty good if i want to. having a stick helps, plus they are more fun to drive, point is, i agree, dont matter how much power you have with a stick (unless your runnin your lawn mower engine in your car) you can probably turn tires, in your car however, it depends on what your future goals are but i would work with the engine a little, ya if you wanna turn them now just put anything slick down get the tires in it and mash the gas, but for the long haul just build the motor, you would have more fun. just my two cents

torque_is_good

ok, so you have 2.73:1 gear ratio. Also, stock when new, 195 flywheel HP. If you allow about 18% drivetrain loss due to an automatic tranny and older technology then you were about 160 HP to the rear wheels rolling off of the factory. Let's be generous and allow 10RWHP to the rear wheels for a muffler and CAI so that would be 170 RWHP. But, the engine is tired, so let's be very generous and only subtract 10% for being tired (being very generous) and you are sititng somewhere around 150 RWHP with 2.73:1 gear ratio. In other words, my daughters 2.4 Liter manny tranny Honda has more WHP (not torque)

Just because the badge says Trans Am or Z28 you must remember the generation from which the powertrains came. It is what it is.

honestly, spend the $75 and get some pulls at a dyno. Your eyes will be opened wide.

taonindo

502 with a super charger that will getem spining....my question would have been how do i keep them from spining....but i buy my own tires and at 200 dollars each .... by the way never rotate road race slicks side to side...lol

blue birdy 87

tire cleaner or the shiny tire stuff you arent supposed to spray on treads...... spray that stuff on the treads. very slick and unlike water will stay with you for a little bit

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

A real high stall TC will get him into his torque band a little sooner, but wont be the best choice with such a low revving engine. At most, Id go no larger than a 2200 RPM stall with a stock TPI. The top end sucks on those motors.

A good set of headers and exhaust will get you low end torque over the crappy log manifolds and weenie little y-pipe. If you really want to carry a good rolling burnout, theyll help out in the midrange a lot, which is what the OP wants to do, cook the tires off the line. Anything can spin the tires and get a little squeal, but thats lame. Even my old rotted out S10 with a 4.3L didnt have any issue doing that.

Really the core issue is that the engine doesnt make enough torque or power. Thats the problem. Addressing that will also improve the performance a lot, and go a long way to making the car more satisfying. In this case exhaust, a tune up, and chip tuning will go a long way. Theres a lot of power to be had over the factory tunes. Id be willing to bet its got some other issues that are killing the power as well.

Also, gears will help out tremendously, but a gear swap is something thats best handled by a shop, and even then they dont always do it right.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Well, it sounds like youve got part of what you need. What else has been done. Have you given it a good tune-up? Tried cleaning the MAF yet? Hows the ignition? I assume that it also has 2.73s in it as well. Does it have limited slip?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

You also dont need to run premium gas provided you tune it yourself. I first started messing with my ECM when I was about his age, and its not hard provided you read up a bit beforehand. Its really the only way. The aftermarket chips just drown the engine in fuel and advance.

The reason it makes more power when COLD is that there is additional advance and richer AFRs for cold operation. The timing on some of the calibrations leaves a bit to be desired.

If you want to keep it easy, you can also try other stock calibrations to see which works best. Its a MAF car, so that makes it more condusive to trying out different things.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Another thing he might want to consider is running actual rocker arms rather than the junk rubber ones. Some good comp magnum 1.6's would probably help, too. I think with the stock cam you should be within the lift limit of the stock heads, but that can vary depending on which cam it came with. You can go a long way with bolt-ons. Just search and see what others have done.

If you REALLY dont want to do anyhting to the car, and want to be lazy about it, you could put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the car. The AFPR will allow you to richen up the AFRs during power enrich (by turning up the fuel pressure), and make a little more power. Same thing with changing the base timing. You can add a degree or two to see if you can make some more power. These are band-aid solutions that require little money and skill to do, but sometimes you can squeeze a little more out of an anemic stock setup.

joeyspagz

but it has a posi rear thats still 2.73:1?

torque_is_good

TIG walks away shaking his head wondering, how can anyone in one post talk about not needing premium, and then in another post talk about advancing timing, and do that all in a thread where someone wants to improve performance.

I suppose you could always use water or methanol injection

we're talking about $1.20 more per week using premium over mid grade for fuel which has a higher resistance to detonation which means the engine actually runs COOLER and you can advance the timing.

OP, do what you must. Your thread if posted honestly would have been the any one of thousands here asking "how do i get more performance"

use the search function and you will find solutions anywhere from bolt ons to full radical builds. Your car is what it is. It's a smog era vehicle that isn't going to get any stronger the more you use it.

many people have provided good suggestions. The ball is in your court but your stock setup will get smoked by v6 Accords and Camrys today. That is the sad reality of old technology vs new

Seven_MPG

Before my swap my stock 305 in my 85 Z28 would burn the tires off the rim.Once I get the 350 in it and get my DOT drag radials I'm hoping to eliminate that issue.Although I will keep a set of tires to throw on for the weekend when I want to burn some rubber now and then.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Premium isnt ALWAYS needed. Provided your ACTUALLY tuning the engine using chip burning and doing it right. My experience is that below around 9.5:1, regular or plus work pretty well. If your running an older engine with a lot of carbon build-up or really crappy open chamber smoggers, then its probably not a bad idea to go premium. It all really depends on how the engine is laid out. My vortec with 9.3:1 will burn anything happily, and make it to, and beyond the peak torque output. I actually have to FORCE it to go into detonation.

Modern engines with LOTS of EGR, and higher engine temps will want the premium for best performance. I know my malibu demands it as the factory set those up to run nearly 50 degrees of advance at part throttle for best economy. That dumps a huge ammount of heat into the heads.

Like I said, if it makes it to peak power without going into detonation on regular, you dont need to shovel the expensive stuff in there. If you start getting ping, then you step up the octane. If it doesnt go into detonation, you wont really notice any benifits to the premium in an engine that doesnt need it, other than an empty wallet. I personally like to save some money buy running name brand, but regular gas in the camaro.

If hes twiddling with the fuel pressure regulator and the distributer, then premium is a must as your just taking a shot in the dark.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

You can tell by taking a look at the rear. Its probably a 10-bolt since its a 305. The 350s from that time got the 9-bolts with varying gear ratios.

Your rear may even still have the tag on it. You can tell for sure by popping the cover. Probably needs a gear oil change, anyway. Id be willing to bet that its probably a 2.73 or 3.08 with an open diff. If thats so, and you cant get one tire going, then theres something more going on here than just it being a 305. Anything can spin one tire.

Have you given the car any tune-ups? How does it run just driving it around.

torque_is_good

interesting. you make points for both sides. At the end of the day, if you get 18 mpg and drive around 11k-12k miles per year we're talking about $1.20 more per week vs mid grade. (does anyone really run 85/87 octane considering the + - of 2 variable allowed?)

Your statement about heating the heads plays right into mine that running higher octane allows the engine to run cooler. Also, with all the sub woofers and bumping going on, can you even hear pinging? For $1.20 per week, you can avoid all of that with a vehicle that you are trying to squeeze performance from it.

I've opened up way too many engines and lo and behold, cooling systems weren't flushed regularly, oil changes skipped or cheap gas used. And what are the first words out of the owner's mouths? " how much do you think it will cost?" or "it won't cost much will it"? It makes you want to grab them, shake them and tell them that for about $125 more per year than what they spend on maintanence that it could have been avoided.

I choose $62.40 per year and to get extended engine life

So, we have an enthusiasts forum where some of the young uns will discuss $1,000 + sound systems, want pretty rims, wear expensive sneakers, have the latest smartphone but cry holy heck if you suggest $1.20 per week more for gasoline; curious, isn't it?

taonindo

T.I.G. ur a funny guy... and i agree

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

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FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

run rubber line from your windsheild washer squirters to the rear tires fill fluid bottle with atf and bleach mixture... get 205/50/16s... get 3.42 4th gen rear from a 6 spd vehicle (do not install rear beaks, cap brake line at rear)... AND a 2-2500 stall converter... squirt tires generously, put shifter in 1, hold gas and brake until tires spin(practice this it looks better if you do it smooth the first time) then floor it while lightly holding brake and shift the gears back and forth to keep the Rs up and the wheels spinning without blowing your tired 305 up, go ahead and turn the wheel back and forth alot, if that dont do it then park that thing out front and put it up for sale

i seen alot of ppl do burnouts with cars that you wouldnt think could spin the tires, that stuff was big in the 90s... i always thought it looked cooler if you were accelerating HARD while spinning and fishtailing away, but some are all about the smoke show

joeyspagz

i dont want help i want it to do it buy it self when i want it to

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

lol wtf??? then you wanna make it more powerful... and your question was answered before u were even born, start saving money and researching