Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
12-31-2010, 12:12 PM
#1
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Car: 1988 Trans Am, 2005 Sierra 2500
Engine: Vortec 357
Transmission: Built TH700R4 with 26-2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt 3.73 Posi
Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
Alright guys, my sb is back out again over the winter having a fresh overhaul of eveything new bigger and better... over the summer i noticed my engien would linch hard to the driver side when put into gear or revd hard. Well driver side engine mount is wasted and passenger is not far behind. Went to replace them last night and long behold the bolts have nuts on the back of them between the subframe and a arms..... Damn Gm cant ever make anything easy..... Any suggestions on how to remove them? I havent crawled under the car yet to see if i have to remove the a arms but im hoping i dont....
01-01-2011, 12:05 AM
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Car: 84 trans am
Engine: 305 5.0L HO
Transmission: TH350
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
I'm in the same boat myself.
I don't see any way except arm removal.
So I been holding out until I get new bushings for the arms first.
I'm not actually looking forward to that job.
I hope someone will shed some light on this for me too.
Sorry I could be of no help.
I don't see any way except arm removal.
So I been holding out until I get new bushings for the arms first.
I'm not actually looking forward to that job.
I hope someone will shed some light on this for me too.
Sorry I could be of no help.
01-01-2011, 12:38 AM
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Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
I used a deep socket on the threaded (nut) side, 2 extensions, a swirl in between, and a closed wrench on the other.
Don't forget to remove the distributor cap & rotor before raising engine to remove the mount.
I get the feeling you're trying to remove the part that's bolted to the cross member.
Don't forget to remove the distributor cap & rotor before raising engine to remove the mount.
I get the feeling you're trying to remove the part that's bolted to the cross member.
Last edited by rgarcia63; 01-01-2011 at 12:56 AM.
01-01-2011, 01:58 AM
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Car: 1988 Trans Am, 2005 Sierra 2500
Engine: Vortec 357
Transmission: Built TH700R4 with 26-2800 Stall
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt 3.73 Posi
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
I used a deep socket on the threaded (nut) side, 2 extensions, a swirl in between, and a closed wrench on the other.
Don't forget to remove the distributor cap & rotor before raising engine to remove the mount.
I get the feeling you're trying to remove the part that's bolted to the cross member.
Don't forget to remove the distributor cap & rotor before raising engine to remove the mount.
I get the feeling you're trying to remove the part that's bolted to the cross member.
No need to remove my cap n rotor as I have no engine in my engine bay lol and yes I'm trying to remove the ones bolted to the subframe. I'm very tempted to grind the heads off the bolts and install new ones... But I'll get some more looks at it today and see what I'm up against
01-01-2011, 07:50 AM
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Car: 1987 Iroc Camaro
Engine: 383 GMPP TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 4:10 Eaton Posi Moser Axles
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
You can get at them through the holes for the lower control arms without removing the control arms. You have to have the right combination of wrenches, but it can be done. Not the easiest job, but it can be done.
01-01-2011, 11:31 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans am
Engine: 383
Transmission: AGE M22Z
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70 detroit locker
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
cut the heads of the old bolts off, replace them with new grade 8 bolts and nuts. like a few people have already said with the right combination of extensions and flex joints it can be done, just be prepared to learn some new curse words...LOL
01-02-2011, 10:01 AM
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Car: 1985 Base Firebird, Emissions Free
Engine: 305 Standard Bore, 4BLL Edelbrock,
Transmission: 700R4, Hydraulic Overspeed
Axle/Gears: Factory
Re: Removal of engine mounts 88" TA
Have recently removed both in my 85 FB 305. As stated above, it can be done with a maximum of cursing, socket extensions with u-joints, etc. working through the coiled springs. Make sure your car is jacked up to give you space. Be prepared for frustration and frequent socket, nut slippage into your frame. GM shame on you, this was lousy engineering.
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