91_RS_Vert

ok. i have an l03 in the car and i got it for cheap so i threw a new starter in it and put a set of hedman headers on it along with a hedman y pipe cut the cat off and ran a straight pipe. added a set of accel u groove header plugs (short) and a set of msd streetfire wires that i had laying around. the o2 sensor is not hooked due to me not having an o2 sensor bung yet because the headers do not have one originaly. so the o2 sensor is unplugged. when i start the car it idles pretty well but when it warms up the slightest bit it bogs out very easily like when i put it into reverse and when i get it going down the road at operating temp it will shake pretty bad and backfire and stall at lights. it also smells very rich. a couple things have come to mind not having the o2 sensor, would that cause this to happen? and i was thinking i kind of yanked all the plug wires off really quick when i took them off not thinking, could i posibly have the firing order wrong a plug wire mixed up? idk it just feels like a fuel issue tho because whenever i floor it nothing will happen then it will sputter and kick in and get going slowly but surely. i know this is alot but i wanted to describe exactly what it does. please help.

BahN

As long as it's a mostly stock engine, the O2 shouldnt matter that much, unless something else is messed up. No codes? TBH, it sounds like low fuel pressure, or spark retard.

91_RS_Vert

it threw codes 13 and 15 o2 and cts

BahN

Hunt down the issue with that CTS, and watch your issues disappear. Most ECMs use the CTS as a means of timing correction based on coolant temp. For instance, my swapped LT1 will pull ignition timing (retard) if the engine gets too hot, or it doesn't get a connection to the CTS.

91_RS_Vert

ok bud is that the one in the head or the one in the intake by the water neck?

BahN

the intake one the one on the head is for your gauge.

91_RS_Vert

alright i changed that sensor and i noticed things got signifigantly better but its still not right. do i need to disconnect that wire on the passenger side and re set the timing? If so what should i set the timing to? The car is still backfiring through the tbi and the exhaust. i have a couple exhaust leaks where i havent had my pipes welded yet but i know thats not THAT big of a deal. i took it down the block and it still hesitates real bad when i give it throttle hard, and just now i parked it in the drive and stabbed the throttle quickly and it died. but it doesnt stall out at stop signs and lights now. after i changed the sensor i disconnected the battery so it would do an idle re learn as well but i still feel like the timing is off? also i have the gap on the accell plugs set to .35 is that alright? thats what the hood said? I would really really like to have this thing running right before dark ne suggestions?

91_RS_Vert

update: I found that the wire from the coil to the center of the dizzy cap was broken and boogered up so i put a new wire on it and it didnt help at all. so then i remembered i had a good rotor button layin in the garage and i popped the cap off and put the button on. hoping maybe by gods good graces it would help it, put the cap back on and went to fire her up and crank, crank, crank. NOTHING. so i put the old rotor button back on and it still will not fire up. the distributor looks as if its seen better days and looks as if some of the metal that is right underneath the rotor button is all rusted and s*** and looks like its actually broken in a couple spots? should i throw my practically new distributor in tomorow? I always see like ten people helping one person on these posts can i get some feedback from u guys i need the help!!!! thank u!

91_RS_Vert

ok well i installed the new dizzy just before nightfall with a new rotor button as well and it fired right up. i couldnt seem to get running righ tho by turning the dizzy back and forth and my timing light apparently has taken a s***. so im gonna borrow one from someone tomorow but i was looking at my timing tab and i couldnt see any numbers really? ill try to fix that tomorow but how exactly should i go about settin the timing should i disconnect that wire and time it or leave it connected?

BahN

Hey, was at work sorry. Glad to hear of your progress! Yes, timing should be set with EST wire disconnected (passenger side fender well). Stock is 6 BTDC. Looking at the tab there is a bunch of valleys, and peaks. The biggest valley is 0 degrees. the peak to the left of 0 is 4, the valley left one more is 6.

Example: http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...o/CIMG0788.jpg

91_RS_Vert

ok im going to walk down to my buddies house and borrow his timing gun. and try to get this thing in order. what about that .35 gap on the plugs is that ok?

BahN

.035 is stock