Dale

iTrader: (12)

I have been working on installing some vette 113 heads on my crate motor 350(trying to make my own zz4 basically). I am using felpro 1003 gaskets.

The first time I installed them I used bolts(2diff torque ratings according to haynes) and copper coat. The right side leaked.

2nd try, no copper coat, ARP studs(80lbs) on all but the end holes because the springs are so big, I cant get the washer or nut on the stud. I installed bolts(80lbs)in them places. I am now leaking antifreeze on both sides without even starting the motor. The leak is at the ends where the bolts are, and not where it was on the first try. A compression test showed 130 to 140 between all cyls.

Has anyone else had this interference problem and came up with a solution to still use the studs? Or had problems with these gaskets? I would like to try and get the studs in and see if that fixes the problem.

This is my first attempt at a headjob on a SBC, but not my first in general (v6's, I4's, etc).

Damon

Welcome to the world of leaky head studs! They're a PITA to seal up. I almost never use them.

When I do use them I install the studs with appropriate thread goop and then IMMEDIATELY install the heads and torque the nuts down. The key seems to be to get torque on the fasteners BEFORE the thread sealant has a chance to set up. If you install them and let the sealnt dry before torqueing down the heads it seems to break the seal when you go to tighten the nuts down.

End of the day, I can't imagine why anyone would want to use head studs unless you're holding back some insane combusion pressures (serious nitrous or forced induction motor)/

End bolts not clearing the end spring pockets.... par for the course with many SBC heads. My go-to solution is bolts with either 12 point heads or smaller 6 point heads.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I had a leak with bolts before I even went to studs. So I dont see where thats valid.

I set the head down, then installed studs with sealer, washers, nuts with lube, torqued. Start to finish may have taken me 45min a side. Including trying different ways of installing the end bolts.

I picked studs for the second time because I have read you can get a more even torque across the head. As well, if I do get my way with this car, it will have juice or boost at some point.

JakeJr

Damon told you right. Head studs are a real PIA to seal and there have been many posts from guys having the same sealing problem. In virtually all applications, save a few over-the-top builds, they're over-kill and unnecessary. They can make it about impossible to pull the head with the engine in the car. They cause more problems than they're worth; my advice: ditch the studs.

Of course, if you choose to continue to walk this rocky road, it's your call.

The few times I've had head BOLT to spring clearance issues, I just removed the spring, torqued the head bolts, then re-installed the spring. The last time I had this issued was in installing a set of Brodix 15 degree heads with big springs and using ARP head bolts. In that case it wasn't just the end bolts, but one in the center (one on each side) too.

Obviously to me, you're doing something wrong. You're not using a LT1/4 block are you?

When you wrote your engine's leaking anti-freeze without starting the engine are the leaks right at the head studs? Which ones?

Are the end bolts the middle-length ones? They are three different length bolts - short, medium and long. Make sure you're putting the correct bolt in the correct location.

Other possibilites are a warped head(s) from over-heating or warped decks on the block You can use a metal straight edge and feeler gauges to check.

Some head gaskets are marked THIS SIDE UP; are yours - Check for that.

Using proper torque sequence in at least 4 increments.

Be sure to use thread sealant on the end of threads that screw into the block on all the bolts (I'm hoping you'll ditch the studs), and ARP lube on the upper ends.

Make sure that each head sits fully over the dowel pins. Hammer with a block of wood to be sure or, in rare cases, enlarge the dowel pin holes SLIGHTLY with a drill bit. Don't rely on the torque of the head bolts to pull them down.

Check for any foreign material caught between the heads/gaskets/block.

Block and head surfaces should be clean and dry.

Install head gaskets according to manufacturer's recommendation which is usually DRY - No sealing lubricant/spray. Re-inventing the wheel not's needed here.

Hope this helps.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

Dale

iTrader: (12)

This notice just showed up in my email today. WTF?

Anyway, I've taken it mostly back apart. The leak was due to my mistake.

The end bolts were the middle length one, correct. I had a local person tell me to get a spring compressor, compress the springs and tip them out the way tell I can get to them. PITA, but it worked.

Block is back together and I rented a collant pressure test machine, knocked it up to 20psi, and the only leak now is where my new lower hose meets the radiator. Hasnt ran yet due to other things going on that prevent my time from being spent on it.