Ward

iTrader: (1)

This morning I came out to go to work and my car wouldn't start. The engine doesn't turn over at all, no click from starter relay or solenoid, absolutely nothing. I tried banging on the starter with a wrench thinking maybe a bad starter, but no luck. I also checked the battery connections, both are fine. The only odd thing I noticed is that the VATS security light doesn't come on at all. It usually comes on for just a second when I turn the key to "on", and then goes back off. Could this be a problem with the VATS system? I'm going to try bypassing with a resistor when I get home, is there anything else I should check?

Edit: video of car starting this summer, you can see what the VATS light normally does, currently it doesn't come on at all:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hhEysp9HXY

Ward

iTrader: (1)

Just tested resistance on the key, and on the plug coming from the ignition. Key read 7.5K, couldn't get any reading at the plug. I'm thinking that the contacts in the ignition aren't reading the key. Would this cause the security light not to come on at all? I'm about to try bypassing with resistors, hopefully that will get it.

Ward

iTrader: (1)

Well, that turned out to be the problem. Either the key contacts in the ignition are worn out, or the wires are broken somewhere. I bypassed it with a resistor and all is well again.

TPI86TA

Im having the same identical problem. Starter not attempting to do anything so i even swapped mine out with a new one and the car has a new battery and tight connections. I also noticed the only odd thing is my security light doesnt come on when i attempt to start the car like it used to. Im thinking the same problem. I have juice at the starter on the red wires. I never was able to reach the purple wire to test that but im guessing im not getting a signal to the starter from there. How hard was it to bypass?

vargasjc

iTrader: (1)

The bypass is really easy and should only take about 10 min to do...and the cost is less than a dollar...check out the bypass on the trhirden website...it does an spet by step set up...only about 5 steps though...good luck

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

its simple, the only issue i had was skiving the wires back far enough on the connector because theyre so small

89' RS/blue

Yes it could very well be your VATS. I had the same problem one time, it wouldnt do anything, no sound at all, it turns out one of the two wires going to my ignition switch was broken, so the vats wouldnt allow it to start. So i just bypassed it. the vats module is under the plastic cover on drivers side, right next to hood release lever, i just jumpered it and now it starts with any regular ignition key, i dont need the chip in the key. So i would check your ignition switch first, its kind of a task to take apart the steering column, but it is doable, u will need a special tool to compress the spring though. B/c on those ignition switches, the two wires are always pulling back and forth everytime u start it, so its only a matter of time before one wire breaks, i've had mine go out twice b/c of the wires breaking. Well anyways, good luck.

Ward

iTrader: (1)

When the system is working normally, the security light blinks for a second, when you turn the key to on. If the light doesn't come on at all (like mine was doing), chances are that the key resistance isn't being seen at all by the VATS module. There should also be a code 53 present at this point. Also, the fuel pump will not prime.

There is a 2 wire plug that comes from the column under the dash, it should be pretty easy to spot - that's where you do the bypass.

spicoli

Hey guys I'm having the same issue. I can find only 1 yellow wire. Is it ok to put the resistor in line with that one ,or do I need the other wire.

Chrisry1995

iTrader: (1)

You need 2 wires. You have the wrong wire. It should be right next to the steering colum and has a plastic connector. Undo the connector and put the resistor in the part that goes toward the front of the car. Make sure to measure your key first to know what value you need.

spicoli

Thanks, for the help. That was the only thing I couldn't figure out.

Chrisry1995

iTrader: (1)

Glad you found it. BTW, I had an intermitant condition that drove me crazy. The VAT light worked correctly, but sometimes the starter wouldn't engage...especially when hot. Found the starter enable relay wire connections were bad. It's located on driverside kick-panel.....where the hood release is. Pull off the panel after removing screws and it's the one with yellow, Dk Grn/Wht and Dk Grn wires. Make sure they are clean. Also, the car will fire-up and run if you turn the key on and apply 12 volts to the purple wire going to the starter solenoid....just in case someone is searching. What I did was find the purple wire on top of the motor right behind the air conditioner compresser. I just made alittle area and removed the insulation. Then I just carry a remote starter switch in my toolbox. Because I always have a problem when I'm dressed to go out or pouring rain or something. This way I don't have to climb under the car to get to that starter wire. Hope this helps someone. This way you can always start her up to get home if the VAT fails.

spicoli

Thanks for that little bit of info. Every bit helps.