Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

ok, i know this problem has been posted before, BUT...

i have an 89' rs 305 TBI

story: started car fine, drove to pick up sister from school, turned car off, got sister, started car again, drove home, pulled in driveway and shut car off, sister ran in for a few mins, comes back out, when i go to start the car, nothing happens.....

all lights work, radio comes on, headlights work, wipers work, interior lights do not dim when in start/run position, but the starter will not crank, no noise or clicking from it at all, and the security light does not come on at all(if that helps)

so i replaced the starter, still does the exact same thing

i do have a question though, when i put the new starter in, everyone knows there are three big wires to one bolt on the solinoid, and one small wire to the small bolt, the new starter i put in had 2 small bolts and one big bolt, so i put the 3 wires on the big bolt fine, but when i put the small wire on the little bolt and i tightened it, i twisted the bolt in half, so i couldnt use that one, so i put it on the other small bolt, will that screw it up??? or is that a ground wire and doesnt matter.

doublek91tpi

has no one replied to you on this yet??? well i htink you need to stop worrying about your starter... you said you have an 89 rs.. ok there is a little ship inside your key. that little black thing at the base make sure it is in securly and try cleaning it with windex... seemed to work for me... when my car starts to do that. i let it sit for like, overnight, clean the ship make sure its all good then try it again. let me know if that works. if not there are tons of other things it ccan be.

ScottieB

mine used to do this too...

turn your power into the "on" position

get a screwdriver, open hood, cross the negative and positive terminals of starter... she should start right up. i still haven't fixed mine, i just put in a cheap push-button starter (2 wires from starter to the push button, ran through pass fender into doorway, onto a push button) it looks cool too. you will see sparks fly, and your screwdriver will get burnt a little too.

campin1983

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked your battery cables? Often they can come loose either at the battery, or sometimes the ground comes loose at its base. They will have enough of a connection to turn on lights, but when you crank the starter, nothing happens. Before sparks fly, check those, clean the battery terminals, and see if that helps. Its either a free fix, or 5 minutes wasted cleaning, no harm either way.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

sorry for the delay, i tried cleaning the keys, even my other key wont work, battery cables are clean and tight, me and my friend put my stock ign. switch back in yesterday, with the same results, then we checked to see if any voltage was reaching the single wire at the starter(as we turned the key to start) and nothing happened, supposeably its suppose to have voltage travel through that wire to start the car at that time, but mine does nothing, so im thinking its either that wire, or the neutral safety switch.....another note would be my security light does not come on at all(hope that doesnt mean my vats is screwed)

for your responses, if you have any more ideas im open to them, hoping to get this fixed by sunday night,

daily driver + work that night = sucks

ScottieB

try crossing the 2 terminals like i said... if you really want to drive her. it wont hurt anything.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the advice, today i took the neutral safety switch out and took it apart, cleaned it real good and regreased it, put it back together and reinstalled it, no luck there, but i ordered a new one should be here 2morrow morning, also there is power from two wires into the neutral safety switch one in the run positon, other in start, still no power coming out to the purple wire that goes to starter

SpitotRs305

you must have that purple wire connected to terminal S in this diagram

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

ok, thanks for that diagram, just got back inside and did exactly that, put the purple wire back on the terminal i broke, the nut is barely on there i got it to turn a half turn, but it stayed, the wire is loose tho, but the purple wire is still not getting any signal to crank the starter, neutral safety switch coming in the morning

SpitotRs305

how are you checking for power to the wire?

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

if i understand the diagram right, one wire at the neutral safety switch is hot in run, and another is hot in start, the hot in start wire should send the signal through the safety switch down the purple wire and to the starter to crank it

so i checked both the hot in run and hot in start wires at the connector at the neutral safety switch with a volt/ohm meter, and both had voltage at the correct time, then my friend checked the purple wire at the starter while i turned the key to start, and no voltage was reaching that wire.

SpitotRs305

test the ohms across the switch when it is closed and when it is open should see a difference and should be pretty low like anywhere around 6 or lower the better

i beleive the purple wire originates at the switch so if the switch i properly functioning which you will know after the ohm test then ohm that wire from the switch to the end... it should also be pretty low like 6 or less after that you need to start looking into that solenoid as the posts on it can turn while you are tightening the wires and cause all sorts of trouble

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

ok, thanks, tried the ohm's test, there is nothing at the purple wire in the start, but thanks to Mike89gta, i found a relay behind the kick panel that i had no idea was there, when i took the relay off and jumped the yellow and green w/white stripe, wires and turned the car to the start positon the car cranked and cranked and cranked, but no start, so i replaced the relay....and the car still does nothing, any more ideas? thank you all for your responses

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

i believe my vats system is at fault, my car does not crank and gets the code 53 as described by vader in the passkey vats page, guess i will try bypassing the vats/passkey system.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

BTW my car starts great now, bypassed the vats, started right up, thanks for all the help, been running good for a few days now, glad to have it back.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

hey guys sorry to bring up an old thread, but i would like to update you all, after driving my car for 3 and a half years now my steering column has become loose at the joint, sucks majorly because i dont have the means to tighten the torx screw because i cant get to it(dont have the pin puller for the column joint), anyways i did dig into it before figuring that out and found where my vats system failed, it was litterally at the ignition cylinder, where the two vats wires connect to it, the wires broke, i may end up repairing it at a later time, but for now i love my vats bypass, i have installed a hidden switch in the car that i use as my "anti theft" (if anyone would steal an 89 rs, lol) but anyways basically if i switch it off car will not crank, i love it and i think its pretty cool

if anyone is having problems or needs to do a vats bypass but doesnt want to mess anything up you can pm me i can take pictures and even make you a resistor pack like i have for mine(just need your resistance from your key) and will send you a "kit" to do it with full instructions, its fairly easy