joshh44

i found a cam kit but im not to sure if its a roller cam or a non roller.
i have a non roller engine block.

the cam doesnt say anything about a roller or anything. unless its there and i cant find it.
i thought i show you the link and maybe someone of you guys can try to figiure it out.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=14092

im building a 383 and heads are assembled RHS with 2.08 calves and with a max lift of .550

would that cam be perfict combo for the heads?

81caballero

i would say thats a flat tappet, .501" lift ..looks like a comp 292h magnum cam......that will work nice in your combo. i dont know the flow numbers on your heads, but they should work fine for this cam. im sure the runner size on your heads would be atleast 180cc. you will need to run a vacuum resevoir for power brakes. But it will work fine.

joshh44

i found out the runner size and there huge!
235cc!
angle plug. ill be using 1.5 roller rockers. i think 1.6 wou be pushing the limit for the springs since they are maxed out at .550

is that fairly good deal for the cam with the lifters?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's the familiar old 292 Magnum (hydraulic, non-roller)...

Yeah that's about what that kit goes for.

It's a decent cam, not too bad of a match for those heads, except that its lift is WAY low. The heads are just beginning to flow at .500" lift. You'd get MUCH better results with a solid roller of slightly higher duration and high .500"s to mid .650"s of lift. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D12%2D772%2D8 would be about right, with the Isky Red Zone lifters http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ISK%2D202%2DRH . Needs a good bit of compression. Shoot for 11:1 MINIMUM if those heads are the aluminum ones. 11½:1 would probably be better.

Those heads are really too big for a street-operated small-inch motor like a 383. They're more appropriate to a race only one with some cubes, like a 434 or larger. They'll tend to make it a pig down low. If you haven't already bought them, you might want to reconsider, and go for some in the 200cc intake runner range instead. Then normal street cams like hydraulics might be a better match.

joshh44

yeah i didnt buy them yet.
i was looking at some 200 but im trying to find something that has big valves. im making a strickly drag car with minimal road use.
im trying to find somethign thats bigger then 2.02 valves. biggest ones i saw were 2.10 with 215 intake. there the jegs aluminum heads.
ones i found were cast iron.
i think im going with cast iron. there stronger. but they are also heavy. so thats the downside.
i havnt found any heads that have lower runners then 235 that have bigger valves. that are fairly cheap prices. i want good quality but also cheap in price.the jegs one look like the best bet since there only $679 each assembled. and the last heads i looked at were $569 each.

joshh44

that combo is over $700!
i guess its well worth it for the money tho lol
it says its a mechanical roller. does that mean its a roller cam??

my engine cant accept roller cams. its a late 70s engine.

joshh44

i found a comp cam that has 525 lift for both valves with 1.5 rockers with 248 duration at .050 for $129.99
and some solid mechanical lifters for $87.99

if thos arnt big enoug for the RHS heads then i might get the Jegs heads.
the specs on them are

64cc CNC machined combustion chambers with angle plug design
215cc Intake runners
2.100'' Intake and 1.600'' exhaust stainless steel valves
1.550'' Springs - .680'' Maximum lift
7/16'' Rocker studs and 5/16'' guide plates included
and they are assembled aluminum heads.

unlike the RHS once which are cast iron.
its about a $150 more to get the jegs over the RHS.

would that be a better combo for the that cam with the .525 lift? ill have enough room to get 1.6 roller rockers if i get the jegs cams.
im not to sure what the valve lift with be with 1.6 rockers.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You don't need, and can't use, HUGE valves like that. Chasing after the largest possible valve size is not how to choose heads.

You have a little tiny motor, just a 383. The bore is only 4.03". If you have a 2.10" and a 1.60" valve in the heads, that's a total of 3.7" of valves, in a 4.03" bore. When valves of that size open in such a small engine, they will be right up against the bore: "shrouded". Flow cannot occur around that edge of the valve if it's right up against something. You can actually get LESS flow from a BIGGER valve, in this situation.

Runners that are too big will cause all kinds of problems, related to low velocity in the ports. Fuel separation, mixture distribution, etc.

Big heads are made for big motors. You're not building a big motor, you're only building a 383. Use parts appropriate to a small motor.

Pick heads with the right size runners for YOUR engine, and accept the valve sizes that come with them. Runners go with the combination of CID and RPM; and valve size is merely chosen to be large enough that the valve is not the limiting restriction to flow.

The "Jeg's" heads are probably Canfields, which are a decent head. As far as whether they're better than the RHS heads (probably Pro Topline), that's hard to say.

But definitely, 215cc runners is about ABSOLUTELY as large as you want to go. Any larger, and instead of improving your engine, it starts becoming a liability.

Another thing to think about in re. runner sizes and valve sizes, is that it hardly matters how large the port is, if the valve isn't opened far enough to get it out of the way; and it hardly matters how large the valve is, if it isn't opened enough to where the throat area is the limit to flow, rather than the valve opening itself. In other words, HUGE heads with HUGE valves and a cam with low lift, doesn't work; not only are you creating all of the too-large-runner malfunctions described above, but also, you fail to gain whatever BENEFITS that the large stuff might give. In other words, you lock in the worst of both worlds.

Yes the cam I posted is a mechanical roller, otherwise know as "solid roller" as I described it. Yes "mechanical roller" should be interpreted as "roller". Yes your engine can accept roller cams. We've all been running roller cams for DECADES before the factory came out with their contraption. All you need is the link-bar lifters such as I posted, and a cam button.

Yes the 294S Magnum is another familiar cam. In and of itself, it's a good cam. For your application, who knows. It's CERTAINLY not enough for 235cc runners on a 383, which will want to turn well beyond 7000 RPM to get up to where the flow requirements are beyond what smaller runners can give. But for 200-210 runners, with 1.6 rockers it would be OK. It will put your peak HP in the 6600-6800 kind of range. I ran the one just below that, the 282S, for years, in a 400, on the street.

To figure out the lift with 1.6 rockers when you have the lift for 1.5s, divide by 1.5, mulitply by 1.6. For the 294S that works out to about .560".

Get a better valve train setup on your heads than the basic cheep entry-level one. It makes no sense at all to get large runner racing heads, and equip them for barely even a mild street cam.

MATCHING ALL YOUR PARTS, to where they all work together consistently toward a single goal, is how fast cars are built. NOT simply going for the "biggest" number you can jam in it.

joshh44

when i was younger i was told the bigger you. the more stuff you can jam into the engine. i guess that is totalyout the door haha.
iu didnt know that.
alot of people are making good hp from 2.02 valves.
i may stick with that or maybe some 2.05s.
ill try to look for some heads that are about 195s or maybe 200 intake runners. thanks for the info ill take a look around.
they have some RHS heads with 2.02 valves with 197cc runners.
im not to sure what the price is. ill have to take a look.

for the roller cam. do i need to do a conversion? like boring some stuff in the block for the cam? my engine isnt at the shop yet to get bored out. waiting for money wise. i was going to get the whole engine decked and everything to make sure everything is straight and check for cracks and get washed before i put any parts to it.
i would rather go with a roller cam. i hear great things about them.
im trying to get everything togeather before end of summer but i think ill have to wait another year before i see it happening. i dont want to chincy out on the engine. once its out why not do it right the 1st time.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There is no "conversion" for the original design roller system. You just put the parts in ANY older block and you're done. As stated, the only thing you need that's any different from anything else, is a cam button; which in turn requires a stiffer timing cover. That's it.

200cc runners and 2.02" or 2.05" valves are entirely enough for a 350 bore. That's all you can use. Any more, and you're going backwards: using your added money to hurt yourself with.

IMO a good combo you could come up with cheep and easy, would be the Jeg's (Canfield) heads, 200cc runners, 64cc chambers; a flat-top 5.7" rod 383 with racing pistons such as JE, SRP, Mahle, or Wiseco, NOT TRW or SpeedPro, and the block zero-decked (very important) to the rotating assembly; and the 294S cam with 1.6 roller rockers. Since you've never dealt with any kind of a solid cam before, or a true performance-oriented setup either, I would not recomend that you bite off on a solid roller just yet, unless you have somebody who can help you out maintaining it. If you do, get the heads set up for about 200-225 lbs on the seat, about 550-600 lbs open, and up to .600" lift; and run something like the XR282R solid roller, with either the Red Zone (pressure-oiled) or their newer bushing roller lifters. The roller is good for LOTS more power even with less "paper" duration, because it will open the valves farther faster, and keep them open farther for longer. Stick a Performer RPM and a 750 or HP900 Holley double-pumper on it.

Again, think COMBO. Get parts that will work right with the motor size you're building, at the RPM you'll be using it at. Be realistic. If the motor will spend ANY time on the street, EVER, then build it like it's a street motor; otherwise, your street experiences will not be pleasant. Better to go a tenth or 2 slower at the track, and not have to worry about a race-gas-sucking, plug-fouling, parts-breaking money pit, while you're trying to get to work or wherever.