theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

when i speed up this noise starts lightly. if i let off the throttle then it seems to get worse. if i stop completely then no noise. i have a brand new transmission with 1800 miles on it. new flywheel and torque con. that came with the tranny. i thought that it may be the u joints so i just changed thoughs saturday and the noise is still there... what else could this be i wonder. any help would be nice since i just spent the past hour searching countless pages of other noises but couldnt find this one. thanks in advance.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

That sucks, I need to replace my tranny. But, I would check to see if you have everything aligned correctly. I would also check your wheels.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

yeah i think that i am going to put it up on jack stands tomorrow and see if there is any oil in the diff housing. i called my dad and he thought that it could be that... i just dont know. the wheels on the back are new just got them 3 weeks ago. noise started thanksgiving day. for your tranny i got mine from jasper $1500 for the 4L60 since that is what you would get to replace the 700r4. like i said comes with converter. oh yeah the rims on mine are 16" formy i got at the junkyard and have been on for a month and a half.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Check for loose torque converter or flexplate bolts.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Why would I want the 4L60 and not the 700r4? The package I am getting, I get to choose between the two. Both are built to 550hp. $750 with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty, Brand new, and any color I choose.

89RsPower!

a 4l60 is a 700r4

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, that is what I had thought.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

just because the 4l60's are newer and like 89rspower! said they are the same
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ill do this when i get off of work thanks

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

so i jacked it up and placed on stands. checked the tc and flex bolts... they were tight. noise coming from diff housing. so i put my hand there and i feel something in the rhythm of the noise. i put gear oil in cause it was low low. still persisting... i guess tomorrow i will pull out the gear housing and see if anything is broke... and if i have true posi what gears... so any more ideas are welcome!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I missed that part, sorry for the wild goose chase.

Probably a chipped tooth on the ring and/or pinion gear. Best get it open and see what's what. Don't want gear pieces getting back up in the gears and doing even more damage.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

just as soon as i get home from work tomorrow will crack that baby open and see what i got. thanks for the insight!!

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

it rained me out but not before i located the axle code. i found out that it has 2.73 posi so i have just ordered replacement ring and pinion same size. i will open the rear up after i receive them. and replace anyway. good luck me!

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

got my gears in the mail this morning and waiting on install kit. will let everyone know if this fixes that annoying clacking. may not happen till next weekend though seeing as this is my daily driver i still have to get back and forth to work.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Perfect opportunity for a gear upgrade. 2-series 3.23's or 3.42's would make a different car out of it.

82Five-O

Not true, they share the same casing yes, but have different gear ratios. Also, a 700r4 is a vacuum shifted transmission, and a 4L60 or 4L60E is shifted electronically. They have different servos, run at different line pressures, and have different types of shift solenoids. They can share the same type of converter, take the same fluid, and bolt up to the same engines.

89RsPower!

intresting, all 700r4/4L60's I've seen have shift points controlled via a throttle valve cable, the only thing electronic on them is the torque converter lockup. The 4l60 "E" is electronically controlled... hence the E.... AFAIK 4L60 was just the newer designation of the 700r4..

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Totally wrong info...
There never was a vacuum shifted 700R4
A 4L60 is a 700R4 with an aux. valve body to cushon engagement.
The 4L60 came out late '87

82Five-O

oops, i better watch what i type. I didn't mean to say that. You are correct Dyno Don. The Electronic lockup designates the "E" along with several other electronic functions taken over by the ecm in later models. My point is... they are very similar, and often mistaken for one another, but are different in several ways.
I guess we better get back to the main topic, this guys gears in his rear.

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

My T/A once had an annoying humming sound but it also had a vibration at certain speed and this humming noise went away as well at certain speeds ... it was my driveshaft after puuting a T-5 specific driveshaft in the noise went away ... this noise was louder the the radio if that sounds like it. .... I was told the driveshaft was slightly unbalnced and it was driveshaft harmonics.

89RsPower!

not really, all of the above came with electronic lockup..

82Five-O

well yeah, all Turbo-Hydramatic trannys have electronic lockup. Do a little digging and you, my friend, will discover that they are activated at different setpoints. 700r4 is activated at a certain combination of the position of the throttle valve cable and a ranged signal from the servo.(milivolts) Later years derive that same signal from the ecm. For example, that is the reason a 700r4 will work in a 92 chevy pickup, and throw a code in a 94.

89RsPower!

somewhat true, but what does that have to do with the error in the statement "The Electronic lockup designates the "E" " I'm really confused about the point of your last post.. Also another incorrect statement would be "all Turbo-Hydramatic trannys have electronic lockup" due to the fact that not all "turbo-hydramatic trannys" have converters with tcc's... but anyway back to topic

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Dyno tried to tell you the truth, and you rejected it.

TH700R-4 & 4L60 basically the same thing (changes and upgrades over the years, otherwise same gear ratios, outside dimensions, etc.). All had electric torque converter clutch lock-up.

4L60E - electronic control for all functions. Controlled by computer. Same ratios and dimensions as TH700R-4 & 4L60.

"Turbo Hydramatic" - first used in 1965 for the TH400. Buick version had a variable pitch torque converter, all others no electronic control except for downshift. 1969, TH350 came out, later a TH350C with lock-up torque converter. Also TH200 & TH200C, TH200-4R - none were electronic control, although the C and 4R versions had lock-up torque converter. Also others such as TH375, and probably some I'm forgetting.

Now, are you really driving this car with chunks floating around in the differential?

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

just got my gears and install kit yesterday and today so i hope to have this taken care of by this weekend or this weekend. so yes i am driving it very carefully with metal floating around and yes it is getting worse i have no other choice at the moment unless i call in. but a mechanic friend of mine who owns a shop not far from here may fix it for me while i am working. just not enough day light to get it do myself quicker than having someone else do it.

89RsPower!

that doesn't sound good.. I'm assuming you got all new bearings as well? Did you also get new wheel bearings and axle seals? If not you should.. last time I broke a tooth off I drove it the rest of the way home (maybe 2 miles) and ended up replacing the carrier all bearings and both axles as well as the gears since the bearing surface of the axles got chewed up from little pieces of metal that floated down to the wheel bearings.. let us know what you find when you pull it apart! Pictures are always fun too!

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

yeah i didn't drive it today i talked to the wife and she said she would go to work hour and a half early. i got the ratech 3001 from summit it has axle seals and stuff with it. i figured if youre going to do it do it right. and the gears are from yukon. i am going to keep the carrier. and just replacing the 2.73. i know i know upgrade... i have a hard enough time not spinning the tires as it is. so that size works for my. may be in 5 to 7 yrs. i might change cause the engine would be overhaulled then and car would be rebuilt and i might be ready then for more than street driving. but i will take pics i love showing progress.

l8tr

mikey

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

At the very least drain out the fluid and spray carb cleaner around to flush out as many pieces as possible, then fill back up with fresh fluid.

Sounds like you quit driving it, though.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

yeah i quit driving it for now. i am going out to start on it right now though. maybe half today and half tomorrow that way i dont half to drive wifes car to much... 02 cougar xr 2.5L... very lacking in power stylish but... cd players broke so no tunes(frowns).

got 2 go

mikey

89RsPower!

take the camera with ya and get us some carnage shots

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

pinion gear... one tooth shredded completely off. tooth next to gap wiggling. can't get a good pic of it in the car so have to wait til i get it out... still trying to figure out how to do that i mean how to keep gear steady while i loosen nut... and what size nut is it anyway i know it is bigger than 1-1/8" because that is the biggest size socket i have... when i get it out though i will take good pics with the missing tooth next to it. got it new diff bearings and ring gear on today though. local shop took care of that. need to get one of thoughs funny hook universal bearing pullers though for the axle shafts. any imput on getting that pinion gear off the (easy) way though i would greatly appreciate...


mikey


btw nice slice on finger 2 cut knuckles and scrape on back of hand. i think things are going good... as in i havent banged head on anything....yet

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

so the socket i needed was 1-1/4"... now to find a way to keep the pinion from turning to get it off...... or do i just need to put the diff. back in and hit the parking brake and then take it apart again? ill need to think this one out for tomorrow. any other thoughts?

mikey

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I made a handle out of an old lawn mower blade. Ground the sharp edges dull, drilled two holes on one end to match one side of the pinion flange - put the holes on the edge so the "tool" didn't get in the way of the pinion nut. Attach with bolts, let it jam up against the car, torque away.

89RsPower!

like 57 said you need something to hold the yoke still, you can make a tool as described or buy one, the store made ones are pretty much the same thing 57described but cost a little more, the one I have fits snuggly around the yoke and has a handle on it to hold it still when your turning a ratchet or inpact gun against the pinion nut and is about 15" long with a handle on the long end..

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

the parts store or lowe's or harbor freight... please car gods tell me where i can buy this divine tool that i need to get the beasty back on the streets where she is begging me to be

edit: went on a search of stores and decided on a nice piece of angle iron ill cut down and drill holes in first thing in the morning. i begin at the crack of noon!!!!!

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

got the nut off. now what trick to use to get the pinion out. i think i need to read alittle more.

theimpaler68

iTrader: (1)

oooookkkkkkkaaaaaayyyyy!!!!!!!! here yea go the pics i promised. 2 sheared teeth on the pinion. it is really hard to set the bearing on the new pinion with out the right tools or ... a pipe that is just the right size mmuuhahahahahahahahahaha! this was the only broken parts. i set the depth perfect the first shot. used the marking compound and left even pattern all the way around. with the right shading in the right spots just like both books i looked at. so i drove it for the first time in 5 days. man did that feel great. thank you all for all the help and for future readers if you would like any additional details just pm me and i can recount the rest of the experience with you.