DocHoliday

A guy I know has an LT1 cam, pushrods, valve springs and rockers that he says he will sell me for a good price. He told me that they can work with thirdgens. I read all of Shiftys LT1 swap guide, and it is awesome! I just want to know how much, if any gains I will get by doing this swap to my L69. Thanks alot!

BTW, I did search!

Air_Adam

I think it would work pretty well, but don't forget... an LT1 cam is a roller cam, and a (stock) '84 engine isn't set up for roller lifters.

Damon

Yeah, you can't use it in your earlier flat tappet block.

Air_Adam

You can, but you need to get a set of retro-fit roller lifters to do it.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

You also have to use a cam button and reinforce the timing cover or buy a reinforced one. This keeps the cam from walking back and forth in the block.

DocHoliday

Thanks for all the heads up, but again, if I did get the retro fit roller lifters and do this swap, how much HP gain will I see?

Also, if I can't go through with this, can someone point me to a good camshaft that will work for my car? I really want a much bigger cam than what it has in it now. I just love the sound of camnd engines. Thanks alot guys!

Air_Adam

All that work and money just for a factory LT1 cam? Its probably not worth it. There are flat tapped cams out there that will tear the LT1 cam a new one, and it will cost alot less - all said and done. Look on the smaller end of the Comp Cams 'XE' line. The XE262 would be a great cam for an L69 - cheaper, since you won't need to buy $$expensive$$ retrofit hyd roller lifters or cam button, or reinforced timing cover, and you'll go faster to boot.

DocHoliday

Is the XE262 pretty lopey in an L69? Also, whats the max lift that the L69 can take?

zz4monte

If you have to pass emissions the xe cams are not a great idea.Some can pass but I have seen many guys fail emissions with them.I would go with a cam with a 208-212 dur and a 112 lobe seperation.The x262 is a little big for a 305...unless you want to get a hard lopeing cam. I would try the crane powermax 2040. 210 216 dur 440 454 lift. I think it is a 112 lobe seperation.Go to crane's website and check it out.Crane's description says its great in 305ho.When I had the stock 305ho in my monte ss a lot of guys ran a cam like that and still passed emissons.It should have a noticable idle in a 305 but I dont think it will be anything hard loping.If you want that try a comp xe256 212 218 dur 447 454 lift 110 lobe seperation.The 110 lobe seperation makes a big difference in idle quality.I think 450 is max for valve lift, it might even be lower but you don't want to get cheap with valvesprings.Buy new valvesprings!!!Crane or whatever company you get a cam from will give you the correct valvesprings you need.Just call and they will fix you up.

Air_Adam

It will have some rumble, but its not going to sound like a Pro Stock car. That cam works really well in the high compression 305s like the L69 though.

Have your cylinder heads been modified? I'll assume no, since you are asking... if they haven't, then stock heads are usually limitted to around .470 lift because of the valve guides, but a machine shop can cut them down for higher lift cams if necessary.

DocHoliday

Quick question, so the only cams my motor will take are hydraulic flat tappet cams? Or will it only take mechanical flat tappet cams?

Air_Adam

You can use hydraulic flat tappet and mechanical flat tappet (AKA solid lifters) cams. Hydraulic flat tappet is what you have now, if you still have the original cam.

You can use a roller cam, but you need retrofit hydraulic roller lifters or retrofit mechanical roller lifters to use them. You can tell them apart from the factory roller lifters by looking at them. Retrofit roller lifter sets have two lifters 'tied' together by a bar at the top of the lifter, like this:



The only roller lifters you can use are the style in the pic above. They have that bar across the two lifters because roller lifters are not supposed to spin, unlike flat tappet lifters. The factory roller lifters have a different method of keeping the roller lifters from spinning, they don't use the bar. Only '87+ blocks have the provisions for the factory roller cam parts though, so your block cannot use the later factory roller lifters.

DocHoliday

Sweet thanks for the help! Guess I will just get a hydraulic flat tappet cam from comp cams.

Air_Adam

I highly recomend Comp's 'XE' line of cams... they work very well for making really nice, streetable power. Use the XE256 or XE262 in the L69. I'd go with the XE262 for the HO motor myself.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Are you running it on the stock CCC Q-jet and computer? Makes a big difference in your cam selection.

A big cam with a 110 LSA and longish duration will likely give you a check engine light due to the low idle vacuum. The MAP sensor won't like it. You need a cam with a 112-114 LSA if you plan on staying on the computer.

I ran a Crane 2040 Compucam in my HO motor, it ran great! I believe 5-7 kid ran the 2050 version in his L69 and liked it.

DocHoliday

Yes, I am running a CCC Q-Jet. When I do this cam swap, I am going to be replacing quite a few things, so could you guys help me out? I want to replace the intake aswell as rockers, pushrods, lifters (have too), and if my stock carb won't work with the XE262, then a new carb. I have the exhaust, just need the real stuff now. Could you please put some combos together for me! I would highly appreciate it! Thanks!

Air_Adam

From what I've been hearing for quite a while here (although I could be wrong, so don't take my word for it) the computer control system for the CC-Qjet isn't anywhere near as picky about the camshaft as the more vacuum-dependant systems like TPI. You can use a much more aggressive camshaft with the CC-Qjet system because even though it does use computer controls, the computer is too "dumb" to know what camshaft is there. As long as you adjust the user-adjustable carb settings properly for the new cam, it should be just fine with the XE262.

'course, if you just want to ditch the CC-Qjet entirely, which I wouldn't if it does work properly, you can always get a regular mechanical Qjet, and rebuild it with the same tuning parts, like metering rods, hangers, etc.. from the CC-Qjet and swap it into the mechanical Qjet. Then you'd have a really nice driveable toy that would make plenty of power. The Qjet is a really good carb, whether for driveability, economy, or performance. The only reason they aren't really propular in performance applications like yours, is two things: One - most people see it as a stock emitions carb, and dump it for a Holley or Edelbrock. Two - they are quite complex carbs, much more so than a Holley, and most people are afraid of them because of that.

For what its worth, I'm rebuilding one of the "big" Quadrajets (as opposed to the little 750cfm Qjet lol) that I might be replacing my 750 VS Holley with. The Holley is great, works pretty well and everything, but I just like Qjets... they are just really nice carbs, especially for a mostly street, some strip car like mine.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Check the article in my sig, might give you some guidance on camshafts.
adam, i'm going to PM you a question about your T10....