JFROG

when adjusting valves, and setting engine at tdc #1, does it need to be in firing stroke? or just set timing mark at 0? how do u know when at firing stroke?

berlincam86

Coat the bearings surfaces with a thin coating of MolykoteŽ or its equivalent.

Install the pushrods and make sure the rod is in the lifter seat.

Install the rocker arm, ***** and nut. Tighten the nut until all lash is eliminated.

The engine must be on the No. 1 firing position before proceeding. This may be determined by placing your fingers on the No. 1 rocker arms as the mark crankshaft damper is rotated towards the "0" on the timing tab. If the arms did not move, it is in the No. 1 firing position. If they did move, turn the crankshaft one full revolution to reach the No. 1 position. Remember, the mark on the crankshaft balancer must be aligned with the "0" on the timing tab.

Adjust the valves as follows:

With the engine on the number 1 firing position, exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8, intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 may be adjusted. Back out the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod. Tighten the adjusting nut until all lash is removed, then tighten an additional 1 turn to center the lifter plunger. Turn the engine one revolution until the 0 timing mark is once again aligned. Exhaust valves 2, 5, 6 and 7, intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8 may be adjusted.

Install the rocker arm cover


I hope this helps.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

turn the motor over as you watch the valves on a single cylinder. As the Exhaust valve is opening, stop and adjust the intake vale. Then turn the motor over some more and on the same cylinder, when the Intake starts to close, adjust the Exhaust valve. Remember EOIC (exhaust opening, Intake closing). You do not adjust to 0 lash plus one full turn of preload as stated above. You will hang the valves open that way. You want to tighten them to zero lash plus 1/4-1/2 turn. This is assuming you've got a hydraulic roller cam.

This is the easiest way.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

berlin's method is the "Chilton's" way of doing it. It ONLY works with very very small cams, stock ones like the 929 or the peanut cam. It will NOT work with any sort of performance cam, because at least half of the valves will be in some stage of their ramps, instead of on their base circles. I NEVER EVER use that method.

The EO/IC method that Dialed In talks about is much more accurate, and will work well enough on almost any hydraulic cam. You have to be up well above 300° of advertised duration before the error from being on ramps, becomes too great to deal with. I often do it that way on motors that aren't very critical, or where I plan on the valves being adjusted later, with the motor running.

It's possible to set even a solid lifter motor properly, and glue the valve covers on, by my favorite method. What I do, is pick a valve, any valve; put a dial indicator on it; turn the motor slowly until I see it go through its cycle; then at the point of peak opening for that valve, adjust the same valve (I or E) on the cylinder opposite it in the firing order (4 cyls away). Then turn the engine exactly 90°, and adjust the next cyl's same valve; turn it 90° more, etc. Then when I finish that valve (I or E) I go back and do the other kind.

So for example if I walk up to the motor I'm building and I see #4 and #3 intake valves both mostly open, I know that #4 intake just peaked and #3 intake is the next one to reach full opening, so I'll put my dial indicator on the #3 intake, and turn the motor until it reaches peak opening. At that point, I'll adjust the intake valve of the cyl that's 4 cyls away from it in the firing order, which is of course #2. Then turn the motor exactly 90° and adjust #1 intake, then 90° and adjust #8 intake, then 90° and adjsut #4 intake, etc. Then I'll do the same thing through all 8 exhausts.

I can get a solid cam easily within .002" consistent from valve to valve that way; I can build the motor on the stand like that, and glue the valve cover on, and not have to worry about it when I start it up. This method is accurate enough to use in a factory situation.

With hydraulic cams, you have to be real careful not to overtighten the rockers. It's real easy to miss the point where all the slack in the valve train is taken up, and think that you need to keep tightening, when actually, you're already compressing the lifter plunger. The "twist with your fingers" test isn't very good. I prefer the "jiggle it up and down" method; it's alot easier to tell when you reach the point at which all the play is gone, but without plunging the plunger. Then once I find that point, I add my selected preload; usually something between ź and ˝ turn on the rocker nut.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

http://www.competitioncams.com/Techn.../Files/145.pdf

Page 2, Step 11. They say to rotate until the intake valve is almost closed before adjusting the exhaust valve.

But, what do they know?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup, that's the EO/IC method.

Rotate engine until the exhaust just starts to open, adjust the intake; rotate engine until intake is just closing, adjust exhaust.

But I don't know what do they know; what do they know, anyway???

berlincam86

Sorry guys if i gave the wrong method. I was under the impression he was using a stock cam. So i suggested what the chiltons manual said. I just did mine the way it said in the book but i only did 1/2 turn after lash. Is this ok for my stock 305 cam?

AlkyIROC

Bring the timing mark up to TDC. You'll now be on the compression stroke of either #1 or #6 cylinder. Both valves will be closed on the compression stroke.

When #1 is at TDC on compression stroke adjust
INT 1,2,5,7
EXH 1,3,4,8

When #6 is at TDC on compression stroke adjust
INT 3,4,6,8
EXH 2,5,6,7

That's providing you have a typical 18436572 firing order cam. Hydraulic lifters only need a 1/2 turn after zero lash. This gives the lifter the required 0.030" preload.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That Chilton's method that both berlin and Stephen posted, will work fine on a STOCK or VERY NEAR STOCK cam, ONLY. It is not so good on anything bigger, because too many of the lobes are on some part of their ramps at those 2 points.

There's a common variant of that method that you put the motor at 4 spots and adjust 4 valves at each one; that's better, but still not real good.

If you don't have a stock cam, don't do it that way. Use a better method. The EO/IC method is adequate for all but the most radical hydraulic cams; and is even close enough to get a solid cam motor to run, although you probably wouldn't want to leave it that way.

˝ turn of preload is fine. If you use the Chilton's method, you don't want to go any farther anyway; because so many of the valves ARE NOT ON THE BASE CIRCLE. You'll end up overtightening some of them.

AlkyIROC

The cam in my car is far from stock and the above method still works. When the intake valve on all the cylinders is being adjusted, it's closed because the exhaust valve is open and the other way around.

JFROG

Well adjusted the rocker bolts using the method watching the rockers position. it ran quiet at first but still once it gets hot ( to operating temp) it starts the tapping sound seems to be more noticed from under the car rather than the engine compartment. do i need new lifters or considering the heat factor is the oil viscosity a factor have 10- 30w castrol. should i try 10-40 or add some lucas before i park it until finacially able to repair?

JFROG

the more i think of the sound and all i am leaning toward exhaust leak. just put new gaskets, but will check next time.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

I've used Stephen's method on my 218, 228 @.050 cam as well without problems.

AlkyIROC

My "big" roller cam is 274/278 @ .050