Streetiron85

I have some quick questions on installing cam bearings.

I just got the tool, and I'm doing this for the first time so any advice would be appreciated.
The holes go at 4:30 - 5:00, and the front bearing with 2 holes goes at 4:00 and 7:00, correct?
And then the big plug at the back goes in last, with some sealant around it, right?
Should I put some oil on the outside of the bearings before I drive them in?

Thanks

screamin' 85 z

Sounds like you pretty well have it! It IS a good idea to wipe a little oil on the ouside of the bearings, you've got your hole positions right, Just remember, all the holes aren't the same size, so pay close attention to however your bearings are marked as to which holes they go in!. AND make sure you only tap the bearings in flush, and not too far, or too short.. When you get close you'll have to tap and look...tap and look.. Don't get to greedy!! As far as the plug in the back goes, I usually put that in after the cam is in, mainly because with the motor on the stand, you can't put it in!! I wipe a thin bead of silicone around the outside of the plug, then knock it in flush with the block.

One more thing..It's always a good idea to mic the cam journals and the bearings to make sure you have some clearance!! Sometimes the cam journals are a little big!! Just gives you a little piece of mind!

Streetiron85

Thanks
I've decided I'll practice once or twice on a block other than the one I'll be using, with some used bearings.
It's funny how you can watch a guy do it and he'll make it look easy, but then the first time you try it yourself, it seems like putting together a puzzle.

ede

it really is pretty simple to do. make sure you get the right bearing in the right hole, make sure oil holes are in right place, and check for burrs after you install them. if you use the kind of tool with what looks like o rings burrs shouldn't be a problem. if you get a burr take it off with a pocket kinife.

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking about doing my own as well.. did you get it done yet?? how much was the tool? and were can i get one??

thanks

Streetiron85

I got one of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33614

I haven't tried it yet on the fresh block I'm building, but I experimented on another block with old bearings. I've watched the guys at the shop use them so it wasn't too tough to figure out.
I wanted to start doing my own cam bearings, cause it gives me a chance to get the block extra clean after it's tanked.

Have fun

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

wow that thing looks kinda weird... how does it work?? do you turn it in and press them out or is it impact?looks simple.

Streetiron85

It's a lot easier to show than tell how it's done.
There's a sequence to it.
If you get one just play around with it using your old bearings til you have it figured out.
You beat on the end of it with a hammer. And the sliding part is a guide.

RB83L69

You slide the little cone thing into the hole in the end of the block, whichever end is farther from the bearing you're trying to knock in; and then you just bonk the bearing in.

You have to make sure you get the oil holes in the bearing located over the groove in the block (i.e., get the bearing knocked in the right distance), which is particularly difficult to see on the rearmost bearing. You might even want to measure the holes and the groove, so you know how far past the edge of the block casting you want the edge of the bearing to go. You want the oil holes on the 4 rearward ones at about 5:00 viewed from the front(somewhat to the driver's side of straight down), and the holes in the front one at about 4:00 and 7:00.

Notice that there are 3 different part #s of bearings in the box; the one front one with 2 holes, 2 with one hole and a smaller OD that go in the #3 and #4 spots, and 2 with a single hole and a larger OD that go in #2 & #5. They WILL NOT fit any other way.

The groove is critical: it not only lubes the cam bearing, but is also the passage that carries the oil to the mains and the rods.

Expect to munge a bearing or 2 the first time you use the tool.

Streetiron85

RB, Thanks for clarifying that.
It's a good thing that there's someone here who not only knows how to do stuff, but is able and willing to take the time to explain.

RB83L69

No problem!! It's always better to take advantage of someone else's experience, if they'll make it available to you.

I have a Snap-On one, which has a plastic cone, and several lengths of rod, and about 4 different sizes of the split driver things. It can do a wide variety of engines, as well as transmissions and other things that have bushings.

I usually do bearings 3, 4 & 5 from the front of the block, and 1 & 2 from the rear.

ljnowell

RB, Just out of curiosity, because i have always had my cam bearings installed at the machine shop (lazy, I know) Do you count the bearings from the back, or is the tool easier to use that way?

RB83L69

No, they're counted from the front.

What I meant was, you install #1 & 2 (the front ones) from the rear of the block; and the 2 rear ones from the front of the block. That way the tool holds itself as straight as possible. I usually do the center one from the front as well.

Incidentally, it also helps to use a piece of PVC pipe on the tool handle, to keep from scratching the bearings as it goes through them.

ljnowell

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Looks like I will be trying something new next time. 10 years working with these things, and still learning and trying new things.

ede

think my shop charges 35 dollars a set to install, my 100 dollar tool has long since paid for it's self

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

i was just about to order one when my buddy (machinist) stopped over and says he could make one probrally in under 20 minutes and free. anyone got any specs on these things??

Streetiron85

I can't give you the specs, mainly because in the time it takes to go out and mike everything, then post the numbers and pictures, I could have earned more than enough $ to buy one. But then my camera's been giving me a hard time lately too.
TTYTT they're pretty cheap, I fab a lot of tools for myself, but I just broke down and bought one of these for $50 incl shipping.

Maybe someone else could help you out tho.
Good Luck

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

got my bearings out. a freind stopped over and showed me a trick he learned in tech school. he took a socket and popped the out 1 by one easy. i was standing by with a rubber malet just in case he sratched my block i told him i was gonna flog him.. but it worked better than i thought so he was lucky.lol so i let him take it to school to hone it. however i will let you know how my homade bearing tool makes out. im using the bearings as a measurement to make it.. free is better when i will keep it for life.
sorry about the post hi jack.

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

also i noticed on my lt1 when i took the bearing out they were at different posision than you mention. is this normal?

Streetiron85

The tool I bought has an O ring that holds the bearing in place while you're driving it in.

classicgm

Does anyone have the bearing size / position specs? My bearing set did not have the spec sheet included with it...

Streetiron85

In this thread RB covers the positioning.

classicgm

DOH! I thought I read it closely. thanks!

B4Ctom1

yes but with the block in which position? "upside down" or "right side up" on the engine stand? I have to assume you meant upside down because it would be hell right side up.