How HOT can a Master Cylinder get before it MELTS?
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
How HOT can a Master Cylinder get before it MELTS?
Short question; Turbo sits next to the MC's very front, the nose of the MC if you will.
During normal driving it gets the nose of the MC HOT. but not TOO hot to touch. Im worried under boost however, that it may get even hotter. How HOT is too HOT? keep in mind its just the NOSE of the MC. the reservior sits back a good 6" from the nose, and stays pretty cool.
During normal driving it gets the nose of the MC HOT. but not TOO hot to touch. Im worried under boost however, that it may get even hotter. How HOT is too HOT? keep in mind its just the NOSE of the MC. the reservior sits back a good 6" from the nose, and stays pretty cool.
#2
TGO Supporter
i'd worry more about the brake fluid getting too hot before anything melted. i'd guess it'd have to be over 300*F to melt. you could always make a shield to go between the turbo and MC.
#3
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
If worse comes to worse, im sure you could fabricate some form of heat shield. Much along the lines of a starter's heat shield, im sure something could be coined up.
#4
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Stekman
If worse comes to worse, im sure you could fabricate some form of heat shield. Much along the lines of a starter's heat shield, im sure something could be coined up.
If worse comes to worse, im sure you could fabricate some form of heat shield. Much along the lines of a starter's heat shield, im sure something could be coined up.
Ok ok, suppose Ive already done this. The downpipe literally touched the heat shield, that touches the tip of the master cylinder. it doesnt right now, but im sure if the motor torques enough it will. just giving you an idea of how close it is... but thats the only part thats close, the tip of the MC. the rest of the MC is safe far away, because the downpipe makes a sharp downturn and gets away from it all.
the fluid is most def not getting that hot in the reservoir, but at the very tip of the MC I think thats where the fluid for the front brakes go into the proportioning valve. the valve thing is also pretty far from the downpipe, even though its right below the MC like i said the downpipe makes a sharp turn right there to avoid the brakes all together.
lets say that after a hard run the tip of the MC gets NEARLY too hot to touch, or just about. is that too hot?
#5
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pueblo Co
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: No more birdy
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
lets say that after a hard run the tip of the MC gets NEARLY too hot to touch, or just about. is that too hot?
lets say that after a hard run the tip of the MC gets NEARLY too hot to touch, or just about. is that too hot?
Another soloution besides the sheild would be to duct air to that area.
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by SSC
Another soloution besides the sheild would be to duct air to that area.
Another soloution besides the sheild would be to duct air to that area.
thats a VERY VERY good idea. I think ill come up with something like that, thanks again guys.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NJ fo0
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
yeah man, you definatly want to protect the brakes system. if i can remember, there should be a decent amount of room to put some sort of ducting up over there. if not, a custom hood scoop would work wonders
hmmm what else. perhaps if you cant figure something out you can make a duct from your rad fans to up over there? that isnt really a good solution, but better than nothing.
hmmm what else. perhaps if you cant figure something out you can make a duct from your rad fans to up over there? that isnt really a good solution, but better than nothing.
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Im thinking ducting from Fender towards MC... or something. when i get back from orlando ill check it out. worst comes to worst, hole in hood small cowl would do the trick, but would ruin my sleeper effect....
#9
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pueblo Co
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: No more birdy
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
Im thinking ducting from Fender towards MC... or something. when i get back from orlando ill check it out. worst comes to worst, hole in hood small cowl would do the trick, but would ruin my sleeper effect....
Im thinking ducting from Fender towards MC... or something. when i get back from orlando ill check it out. worst comes to worst, hole in hood small cowl would do the trick, but would ruin my sleeper effect....
So is there no possible way to move the DP an inch? Your going to have to snap a pic of this for my brain to kick into OD.
#11
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
that bad huh! oh well. im thinking of re-doing the manifold to move the turbo forward a little... im just not so happy about having to cut it all up again. maybe ill make a new manifold and just swap it in.
for now, i like the hood idea i have a spare hood in the back, and a cowl hood im thinking of putting on, although i dont like losing the sleeper effect thats oh-so tasty right now. man the look on people face when i come away from lights and my car goes "whirrrrrll bzzzzz" from under the hood. well, i have open downpipes this week so...
what should i use for louvers in the hood? cut the metal and bend it up maybe? make like a sharks finn?
for now, i like the hood idea i have a spare hood in the back, and a cowl hood im thinking of putting on, although i dont like losing the sleeper effect thats oh-so tasty right now. man the look on people face when i come away from lights and my car goes "whirrrrrll bzzzzz" from under the hood. well, i have open downpipes this week so...
what should i use for louvers in the hood? cut the metal and bend it up maybe? make like a sharks finn?
#14
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pueblo Co
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: No more birdy
Thats what we needed a nice little pic.
Just another idea, fNord sells covers for diesel applications to cover the clutch slave and a few other components to keep heat out. Most dealerships stock the covers even if you move the DP an inch towards the front you might hit up fNord, Cat or Int for a cover that will slip over the MC just to be safe and of course speed shops all sell fuel/brake line slevees.
Just another idea, fNord sells covers for diesel applications to cover the clutch slave and a few other components to keep heat out. Most dealerships stock the covers even if you move the DP an inch towards the front you might hit up fNord, Cat or Int for a cover that will slip over the MC just to be safe and of course speed shops all sell fuel/brake line slevees.
#15
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by SSC
Thats what we needed a nice little pic.
Just another idea, fNord sells covers for diesel applications to cover the clutch slave and a few other components to keep heat out. Most dealerships stock the covers even if you move the DP an inch towards the front you might hit up fNord, Cat or Int for a cover that will slip over the MC just to be safe and of course speed shops all sell fuel/brake line slevees.
Thats what we needed a nice little pic.
Just another idea, fNord sells covers for diesel applications to cover the clutch slave and a few other components to keep heat out. Most dealerships stock the covers even if you move the DP an inch towards the front you might hit up fNord, Cat or Int for a cover that will slip over the MC just to be safe and of course speed shops all sell fuel/brake line slevees.
thanks again SSC, i will do this and wrap the downpipes too.
#16
Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Taylors Falls, Minnesota
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1983 Z/28
Engine: Edelbrock 355
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42/Zexel/PBR
I'd be more worried about the fluid bubbling than the MC melting, same reason to watch your brake lines when installing hedders or routing exhause. Some good ideas above though!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
88SS6SPEED
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
11-11-2015 07:05 AM
codeysabatini
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
5
11-10-2015 04:07 PM
camaro1185
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
4
10-26-2015 06:51 AM