replacing valve stem seals
#1
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Car: 87 firebird
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 5spd
replacing valve stem seals
i think im going to have my valve stem seals replaced, i dont have anywhere to do this myself so im juts going to bring it to a shop.. how much do you think this should cost? and is there anything else i might have them do while theyre at it? valves? springs? head gasket?
thanks
thanks
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Things they have to take off anyway, and just have them pick up new ones to put back on, instead of picking up the old ones.... valve springs, retainers & keepers; rocker arms; push rods.
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Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Hey p0rk,
I would recommend doing it yourself. Search the posts for valve seals. There is dozens of posts that explain how to R/R the valves seals. I have all the parts and garage to do this tasks. I've been planning on doing for quite sometime now. As of this moment I have the valve covers and spark plug removed. Although just haven't found the time to finish. Luckily I have another car. Good Luck!
I would recommend doing it yourself. Search the posts for valve seals. There is dozens of posts that explain how to R/R the valves seals. I have all the parts and garage to do this tasks. I've been planning on doing for quite sometime now. As of this moment I have the valve covers and spark plug removed. Although just haven't found the time to finish. Luckily I have another car. Good Luck!
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#8
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Car: 87 firebird
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 5spd
the only problem is i live in honolulu, so i have to park on the street.. leaving the island in 2 weeks anyway.
#9
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Car: No more birdy
Well if you could swing it. Since they would be there no better time to add roller rockers........
If that isnt an option you might consider buying a set of Z28 springs to replace you old probably worn out springs at a minimum. It would only run $50 or less for the springs, I highly doubt theres a 5 speed owner out there that has stock springs that arent worn by now.
If that isnt an option you might consider buying a set of Z28 springs to replace you old probably worn out springs at a minimum. It would only run $50 or less for the springs, I highly doubt theres a 5 speed owner out there that has stock springs that arent worn by now.
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Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
What if the guides are worn? Will just replacing the seals curb some of the oil consumption, at least for a little while?
#11
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Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 411
You do not need to take off the heads to do the seals!!
you need this tool
This adapter plugs into spark plug hole and you attach on other side of this adapter to the air compressor. this way you can hold the valve closed then you need spring compressor to take off the keepers, retainer and the spring.
seal set(16) runs about $15
Good luck
Z28 Dude>>>
you need this tool
This adapter plugs into spark plug hole and you attach on other side of this adapter to the air compressor. this way you can hold the valve closed then you need spring compressor to take off the keepers, retainer and the spring.
seal set(16) runs about $15
Good luck
Z28 Dude>>>
Last edited by 400Z28Racer; 04-29-2004 at 12:22 PM.
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Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Hey Z28 Dude-
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
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It's a whole lot easier to use a piece of rope than the compressed air method. You just put the piston at TDC, stuff the cyl as full as you can with the rope, do the spring and valve seal thing to it, and pull the rope out. That also eliminates the need for an air compressor.
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Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 411
Originally posted by IrocZonNos
Hey Z28 Dude-
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
Hey Z28 Dude-
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
#15
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Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 411
Originally posted by IrocZonNos
Hey Z28 Dude-
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
Hey Z28 Dude-
Have you ever replaced valve seals before while the heads on the car? If so could you provide some information that I will help me out before I start mine. Also what part of Cali are you located?
Here is what you can do:
- you need air compressor and you need that adapter. You can buy that adapter from Jegs for $10 part#555-80522
- Both of the cylinder's rocker arms should be loosend to ensure the valves are closed
- you need a special spring compressor Jegs part#660-41830. By using this tool you are able to compress the spring, then take off the keepers, retainer and spring then change the seal
If you do not have air compressor you can do like what RB83l69 said about the robe method .
If the valve stem or the guide are worn, seals alone may not solve your problem.
good luck
Z28 Dude>>>
Last edited by 400Z28Racer; 04-29-2004 at 02:34 PM.
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Originally posted by RB83L69
It's a whole lot easier to use a piece of rope than the compressed air method. You just put the piston at TDC, stuff the cyl as full as you can with the rope, do the spring and valve seal thing to it, and pull the rope out. That also eliminates the need for an air compressor.
It's a whole lot easier to use a piece of rope than the compressed air method. You just put the piston at TDC, stuff the cyl as full as you can with the rope, do the spring and valve seal thing to it, and pull the rope out. That also eliminates the need for an air compressor.
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Originally posted by Stekman
Thats what i do. Works like a charm. Might not be as fast, but like RB says, you dont need the air compressor.
Thats what i do. Works like a charm. Might not be as fast, but like RB says, you dont need the air compressor.
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Car: 1989 TransAm GTA
Engine: One sweet modified 355 TPI.
Transmission: The kind that shifts....
Even if it did leave anything in there. If you used a rope with soft enough fiber it may leave some lint at the most. Probably not enough to damage anything.
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Pep boys and autozone also sell the air compressor fitting. I just did valve seals for the first time on my Mitsubishi Galant. It was much tougher then expected but I think thats only because it was a Japanese motor. Get the tool, compress the valves with a chevy valve compressor which you can also find at autozone and then R&R. Shouldn't take you more then a day. If you can't find the chevy spring compressor (looks like a rod, attaches to your rocker screw/stud) then I recommend the autozone spring compressor that they rent, it was far superior then the pep boys design IMHO.
Matt
Matt
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
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Originally posted by FruityOne
Even if it did leave anything in there. If you used a rope with soft enough fiber it may leave some lint at the most. Probably not enough to damage anything.
Even if it did leave anything in there. If you used a rope with soft enough fiber it may leave some lint at the most. Probably not enough to damage anything.
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
i was talkin to my uncle yesterday and he said he can remember doin it that way back in the 60's but hasnt heard of it since....lol....but he said that it always worked great and never had a problem ...thanks for the enlightenment i love to hear of other ways of doin things than the everyday ....thanks guys
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
I tired the nylon rope thing in my old 305 to replace a spring... couldn't get the valve to stay up no matter how much i stuffed in there... I even put the piston down, filled it up and then ran the piston up to the top... nothing...
Compressed air works best! Easiest with manifolds.
Compressed air works best! Easiest with manifolds.
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
yeah compressed air is what i used the one time i tried it on the engine but you also have to watch that ....you will find out quick if your head gasket is bad.,..LOL
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
You only need like 15-20psi to hold the valve up. Make sure you tap the retainers with a rubber hammer before trying to compress the spring.
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
yeah my head gasket at the time was on its way out i found out anyway because the engine i did it in had 100,000 miles on it but thats the way it goes
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