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Service Engine Soon Light?

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Old 06-02-2003, 05:29 PM
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Service Engine Soon Light?

A couple of days ago my Service Engine soon Light came on.
I would drive for about five minutes and it will come on and aloso does any ones throttle get stuck and if so is thier any way to fix it. I could use some help and would love some advice thanks.
Old 06-02-2003, 09:51 PM
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You can buy a Haynes manual for about 20 bucks and it will tell you how to get the codes and what they are. You basically take a little piece of wire about 3 inches long and plug it into 2 outlets located on the diagnostic plug that is on the bottom right of your dash on the drivers side. It may have a little cover on it that you have to pop off. Turn on your igniton and the check engine light will flash each code 3 times, the first code will be 12, it will flash once, pause, flash twice(indicating a twelve) and repeat three times then a long pause and the next code will start.

I found the above by searching. I'd go buy a haynes manual before trying this. I copied it in here from another post and don't know if its correct. You can also buy simply little modules at auto part stores that will cause the light to flash and tell you the code.

The engine light can be for many reasons. My guess is that the most likely is a EGR problem. You can read about those in the tech articles. https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/

EGR info https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...diagnose.shtml

If you are going to try to do a lot of work on your car look into getting the factory manuals.

Good Luck.
Old 06-03-2003, 06:59 AM
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Car: '89 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
I got so tired of seeing that damn idiot light come on that I came up with a custom solution...I stuck a piece of black electrical tape over it
Old 06-03-2003, 10:20 AM
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Originally posted by Deemax
I got so tired of seeing that damn idiot light come on that I came up with a custom solution...I stuck a piece of black electrical tape over it
Ripley's Belive IT or Not... That was the factory service procedure for mid-'80s Chrysler cars that were past the emissions warranty.
Old 06-03-2003, 10:30 AM
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Car: '89 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Vader
Ripley's Belive IT or Not... That was the factory service procedure for mid-'80s Chrysler cars that were past the emissions warranty.
Oooo.....that's even better than thinking I came up with an original solution. I've duplicated factory engineering...right in my own garage!
Old 06-03-2003, 08:27 PM
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Tomarrow I'm going to try and get a hold of a Haynes manual and see what codes I come up with. Thanks a lot for your help. Ya I would stick tape over it but it would still bug me to much.
Old 06-03-2003, 10:19 PM
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Don't do the Mopar thing. And a manual is always a good idea, but you really don't need one for this project. It's really rather easy.

First, you'll need to acquire a GM OBD I ECM Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval Tool (commonly known as a paper clip to TGO members).

With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on Firebirds, and on the left on Camaros. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim.



Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:



WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.

After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.

Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:

GM Error Codes.pdf.

You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open/print the file.

Last edited by Vader; 03-31-2018 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Updated links
Old 06-04-2003, 01:11 PM
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I just ran the codes on my car and came up with a Code 12, 23, and 32. I have a 305 TBI so how do I figure out wich of the codes is the problem and Vader thanks for the help I would still be trying to figure out how to do this.
Old 06-04-2003, 06:20 PM
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If you downloaded the *.PDF file with the error code definitions, you should have a good idea of the problems. Some of the codes have different definitions for different engines, but I believe most of those are listed.

The 23 on your TBI is for a low temperature fault of the MAT (Intake or Manifold Air Temperature) sensor. That is usually caused by an open circuit between the sensor and ECM or a failed sensor. Make sure the ECM ground wires are connected at the engine and the sensor is connected. If the wiring is intact, remove the connector and measure its resistance at a known temperature. Compare it to the chart:



If the resistance is not within a reasonable range, replace the sensor.



Your 32 is for a fault with the EGR. Check the connections at the EGR vacuum solenoid, the engine grounds, and vacuum lines to the EGR. If there is nothing obviously wrong with the device connections, follow this flow chart for error diagnosis:


Last edited by Vader; 03-31-2018 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Updated links
Old 06-06-2003, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys you have saved me a lot of time and money. Today my dad and I are going to Check the EGR and the MAT to se if I can get that stupid light to go off. Thanks for all of you help and thatnks for the pictures Vader you've been a lot of help. Thanks
Old 10-17-2004, 09:00 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Originally posted by Vader
[B]Don't do the Mopar thing.
I resent that. I pulled the bulb out on my 90 Dakota. I was told it came on every 50k miles as a reminder to have the EGR valve replaced. I had someone turn it off with a scanner and it came back on at 54k miles. The bulb was pulled shortly after that and now it has 145k miles. I plan to learn to paint by using my Dakota and if I do a good job, I'll paint my Iroc-Z. If I suck I'll head to the body shop.
Old 10-17-2004, 09:27 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
A little correction to a typo error in Vaders post regarding the location of the ALDL in the Camaros. It is on the right side of the steering column in the same location as the one in the trans-am. That is unless you have one of those right hand drive camaros and then it would be to the left of the steering column.
Old 10-17-2004, 11:11 PM
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 V-8 4BBL (H) Supercharged
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi
My engine light keeps coming on too!....during decelleration. I hooked up the diagnostic and it said the speed sensor was the culprit. Where and what is this part? Is it in my 700R4? Do I need to visit a tranny shop? Will this hurt my fuel economy?
Old 10-18-2004, 08:58 AM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
depending on what the RPO codes are on your car, it will either be in the transmission or mounted behind the tachometer in the insrument cluster. If you have the RPO codes E5Z, E7Z, & E9Z listed. The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is located behind the tachometer on the instrument cluster. Otherwise it is located in the side of the transmission similar to the picture below.
Attached Thumbnails Service Engine Soon Light?-speedo.gif  
Old 10-18-2004, 08:09 PM
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Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
"Ripley's Belive IT or Not... That was the factory service procedure for mid-'80s Chrysler cars that were past the emissions warranty."

haha,.. i remember that, but ya can't knock mopar around too much,... mopar is where those first GM computer systems came from, of which everything else from GM after that is based on. those of us still running a GM ECM have alittle mopar in our cars.

*edit* i just noticed,... that was from a year ago.

Last edited by DENN_SHAH; 10-18-2004 at 08:12 PM.
Old 02-27-2006, 11:07 PM
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Originally posted by DENN_SHAH
"Ripley's Belive IT or Not... That was the factory service procedure for mid-'80s Chrysler cars that were past the emissions warranty."

haha,.. i remember that, but ya can't knock mopar around too much,... mopar is where those first GM computer systems came from, of which everything else from GM after that is based on. those of us still running a GM ECM have alittle mopar in our cars.

*edit* i just noticed,... that was from a year ago.
Wow. And I thought the first GM engine controllers (in 1976) were from Delco Electronics. I learn something new every day.
Old 02-28-2006, 07:58 PM
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Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
they were,.. Mopar contracted out to the electronics division of GM to build their ECMs, its how GM knew what Mopar was up too.
Old 03-01-2006, 08:04 PM
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 T.B.I. (Vin tag "E" = LO3)
Transmission: THM-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
MOPAR=
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