Who runs at full vac advance all the time?
#1
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Who runs at full vac advance all the time?
And how did you set it up?
Did you time it, hook up the vac advance and then readjust the idle speed or how is it done?
Did you time it, hook up the vac advance and then readjust the idle speed or how is it done?
#2
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
I'd say anyone running full advance all the time...even WOT...is probably too busy replacing head gaskets to respond.
But seriously, you want advance to drop off under load.
But seriously, you want advance to drop off under load.
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by kevinc
I'd say anyone running full advance all the time...even WOT...is probably too busy replacing head gaskets to respond.
But seriously, you want advance to drop off under load.
I'd say anyone running full advance all the time...even WOT...is probably too busy replacing head gaskets to respond.
But seriously, you want advance to drop off under load.
Let me rephrase this;
Some peope run their vac advance off of the manifold or a non-tuned vac port from the carb.
That's what I'm asking about.
Last edited by gruveb; 04-04-2003 at 10:40 AM.
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
There were some people on this board who would run their cars that way, but I don't remember who.
I tried it before, but couldn't get my car running properly, but it turned out I had some problems not related to this.
I was just curious and was thinking about playing around with it....
I tried it before, but couldn't get my car running properly, but it turned out I had some problems not related to this.
I was just curious and was thinking about playing around with it....
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Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
the vacuum single for my vacuum advance HEI distributor comes from the intake manifold. it runs very well this way...
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by brodyscamaro
the vacuum single for my vacuum advance HEI distributor comes from the intake manifold. it runs very well this way...
the vacuum single for my vacuum advance HEI distributor comes from the intake manifold. it runs very well this way...
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Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
ran a rubber hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum advance inlet.
i believe i used to have in come off the carb, but i had the car tuned by a pro and i cant really see this hurting me at all (car runs very well at all throttle positions and RPMs)
i believe i used to have in come off the carb, but i had the car tuned by a pro and i cant really see this hurting me at all (car runs very well at all throttle positions and RPMs)
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
When I set mine, I disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port on the carb, set the timing at 3000 RPM, and then reconnect the vacuum and set the idle speed/mix.
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Set timing at 3K? hmmm, I don't have an induction type timing gun, just the "old skewl" kind.
The timing tab only goes to 12* and I've tried using those tapes, but they always fly off!
I have absolutely no idea what my total advance is, just set the initial as high as possible with pinging and roll with it.
So without an advance timing gun, sounds like I'm not equipped to try this?
The timing tab only goes to 12* and I've tried using those tapes, but they always fly off!
I have absolutely no idea what my total advance is, just set the initial as high as possible with pinging and roll with it.
So without an advance timing gun, sounds like I'm not equipped to try this?
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
How "old school" is your gun? You shouldn't be using anything other than an inductive pickup light with an electronic ignition.
You don't need to use a tape to set the total timing with a non-advance light. Calculate the circumference of the balancer, figure out the distance from the TDC mark to your desired timing point, measure on the balancer and put a mark there yourself. 32 degrees on a 7.5" balancer is almost exactly 2".
You don't need to use a tape to set the total timing with a non-advance light. Calculate the circumference of the balancer, figure out the distance from the TDC mark to your desired timing point, measure on the balancer and put a mark there yourself. 32 degrees on a 7.5" balancer is almost exactly 2".
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Good idea.
So you set your timing at 3000 rpm at how much advance?
Then you set your idle by adjusting the air/fuel mixture along with the idle adjuster?
So you set your timing at 3000 rpm at how much advance?
Then you set your idle by adjusting the air/fuel mixture along with the idle adjuster?
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You'll need all your mechanical advance in by 3000 RPM for it to work. Has your distributor been recurved?
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Yeah, it's been worked and if I remember correctly, it has light weight springs.
I have a Crane adjustable vac canister on there too.
I have a Crane adjustable vac canister on there too.
#16
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
I'd be able to tell if I'm at full advance at 3000 rpm by using the timing gun, accelerating the engine and watching the timing marks right? If I'm at full advance, it would remain stable.
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