high RPM's help......
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1-ish
Transmission: T56 stage II
Axle/Gears: S60 4:10's
high RPM's help......
When putting my motor back together what should I run for bearings. I have a high rpm cam, redlines at 6000, and have already lost two rod bearings. I want it to be strong enough to run up there consistently. I have to get a replacement crank so should I consider something different here as well. I would like to run a small amount of nitrous sometime like a 75 to 100 shot. Should this be able to work with stock equipment?
Please help so I dont screw this thing up again....OH yeah its a 305
Thanks for any and all replies...
P.S. keep the 305 bashing to a minimum.. I know some cant resist
Please help so I dont screw this thing up again....OH yeah its a 305
Thanks for any and all replies...
P.S. keep the 305 bashing to a minimum.. I know some cant resist
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The old standby is Clevite 77. Trimetal are what the good ones are typically called. Built and clearanced properly, you shouldn't have any trouble with most any bearing.
Have you replaced the oil pump? That should be considered a must for any rebuild. Don't need anything fancy, but a name brand like Melling, Milodon, or even Summit will do the job.
If you're getting a crank, consider a 350 unit and 350 rods. Shot penning the rods has been the age-old stress relief process. Resizing the big ends and ARP bolts will make them last for this application. Have the whole rotating assembly balanced before it's put together.
Exactly what do you mean by "stock equipment"? Stock 305 heads won't be up to the task without some porting work, valve springs, and screw-in rocker studs. 1.94" intake valves (Manley Proflows are a good choice) would help it breathe. You'll also need exhaust (headers to rear bumper).
The way you keep an engine alive with nitrous is to never let it lean out. Have a separate electric pump supply the nitrous system. Forged pistons are typically recommended as well.
After the rings are seated, change over to synthetic oil (Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Redline, even Royal Purple. I wouldn't recommend Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.).
It should stay alive with all that.
How'd I do with the 305-bashing part?
Have you replaced the oil pump? That should be considered a must for any rebuild. Don't need anything fancy, but a name brand like Melling, Milodon, or even Summit will do the job.
If you're getting a crank, consider a 350 unit and 350 rods. Shot penning the rods has been the age-old stress relief process. Resizing the big ends and ARP bolts will make them last for this application. Have the whole rotating assembly balanced before it's put together.
Exactly what do you mean by "stock equipment"? Stock 305 heads won't be up to the task without some porting work, valve springs, and screw-in rocker studs. 1.94" intake valves (Manley Proflows are a good choice) would help it breathe. You'll also need exhaust (headers to rear bumper).
The way you keep an engine alive with nitrous is to never let it lean out. Have a separate electric pump supply the nitrous system. Forged pistons are typically recommended as well.
After the rings are seated, change over to synthetic oil (Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Redline, even Royal Purple. I wouldn't recommend Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.).
It should stay alive with all that.
How'd I do with the 305-bashing part?
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1-ish
Transmission: T56 stage II
Axle/Gears: S60 4:10's
EXCELLENT JOB on the limited BASHING!!!!
O.K. here is what I have....
Worldproduct S/R 305 torquer heads...1.94/1.5 screw in studs
Comp cams nitrous hp 218/230@.050...>462/.480
hedman headers right now But getting SLP
Edlebrock cat back exhaust
ported MAF, PLENUM, BASE,....AFPR
When I originally did this a couple of years ago I replaced everything I could without taking the crank and pistons out.
New oil pump alll the gaskets and seals, roller tip rockers.
Now you are saying I should buy a 350 crank, I thought they were the same. Are they the same size but balanced different?
Also if I put this back together with a somewhat stock bottom end will it be able to handle 6000 rpm's consistently? Or is the factory balancing not good enough? Maybe I'm confused , isn't the flywheel balanced to my crank or is it to any 305 replacement crank? Or even a 350 crank, Im not sure.........I did put on a new harmonic balancer also.I am not so much concerned about the nitrous yet I just wanted it to be a possibility in the future....Heck it might not even be on this engine cause I'll probably end up buying a ZZ4 or something down the road.
Thanks for the help!!
O.K. here is what I have....
Worldproduct S/R 305 torquer heads...1.94/1.5 screw in studs
Comp cams nitrous hp 218/230@.050...>462/.480
hedman headers right now But getting SLP
Edlebrock cat back exhaust
ported MAF, PLENUM, BASE,....AFPR
When I originally did this a couple of years ago I replaced everything I could without taking the crank and pistons out.
New oil pump alll the gaskets and seals, roller tip rockers.
Now you are saying I should buy a 350 crank, I thought they were the same. Are they the same size but balanced different?
Also if I put this back together with a somewhat stock bottom end will it be able to handle 6000 rpm's consistently? Or is the factory balancing not good enough? Maybe I'm confused , isn't the flywheel balanced to my crank or is it to any 305 replacement crank? Or even a 350 crank, Im not sure.........I did put on a new harmonic balancer also.I am not so much concerned about the nitrous yet I just wanted it to be a possibility in the future....Heck it might not even be on this engine cause I'll probably end up buying a ZZ4 or something down the road.
Thanks for the help!!
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