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ATTN: jsusoutherners AKA - "New" '86 T/A LG4

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Old 12-21-2002, 10:19 AM
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ATTN: jsusoutherners AKA - "New" '86 T/A LG4

...Also know as "Here I go again..."

The last time I did this for an '86, the car ended up on a slow boat to Norway after a trip through the "Death Star".

JSU, et al,

Since you have one vehicle with several issues, and several threads (four, to be exact) that may seem unrelated, I though it might be a good idea to consolidate all the threads into one that may be more complete. At the very least, we'll be able to attack the problem in logical sequence, addressing the most significant ones first. After the major problems are solved, the smaller ones may be fewer.

Your four previous threads are:

RPM Questions;

Ignition;

Long time since its been started;

Bad Valve gaskets???

If I may, what I have been able to determine to this point is:

1. You acquired the car after it was abandoned for an undetermined amount of time. We have no clue as to when it was last run, and how it was running when abandoned. We can't presume that it was just left there in perfect running condition;

2. For reference, the car is a 1986 Trans Am with the LG4 (carbureted 305 V-8);

3. You've installed a new 630 CCA battery, added fresh fuel to the tank, and the engine will at least crank and fire briefly;

4. In order to get the engine to start, you have had to pour raw fuel into the carburetor;

5. The engine will idle for at least 15 seconds after starting, as long as you feather the throttle;

6. The engine hesitates if you open the throttle more while it is idling;

7. The engine runs rough and vibrates "really hard" at just under 1000RPM (or just above idle);

8. The headlights go dim while idling;

9. The ignition lock cylinder is hard to turn (mechanically);

10. There is some white smoke comming from under the engine when it is running;

11. The ECM will not display error codes;

12. The MIL, or "Service Engine" light is coming on at some time during this cycle.

If I missed anything, please correct me where I made an error or had an oversight. I'll bet we can get you closer to running before Christmas if we stay on track.
Old 12-21-2002, 11:47 AM
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first off id say a new carburetor.... check your intake and head gaskets for leakage.... and id say you need a new alternator.
Old 12-21-2002, 01:31 PM
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hey man... sorry for being an @$$..
I have no clue what to do about this thing and college kids dont have alot of money to work with... so i was hoping to do a little on my own... .thanks for all of your help...
Old 12-21-2002, 08:14 PM
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ok i am reading my haynes repair manual ... about the fuel pump removal... it tells me to use two wrenches, an open end wrench on the fuel pump and a flare-nut wrench on the fuel line fitting...
i understand all that except ... what is a flare nut wrench?
Old 12-21-2002, 09:22 PM
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It's kind of an open end wrench, but more complete for lack of a better explanation. Go to any auto store and they'll show you. I hope you've changed the fuel filter, air filters, and oil/filter. Sounds like you may havea problem with the shifter enganging in park all the way for the ignition thing. You should check the wiring for corrosion and tightness between the starter/battery/alternator, and check the voltage at the battery and alternator with the car running
Old 12-21-2002, 09:30 PM
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the battery charge is right in the middle of the gauge
Old 12-21-2002, 10:32 PM
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Originally posted by jsusoutherners
ok i am reading my haynes repair manual ... about the fuel pump removal... it tells me to use two wrenches, an open end wrench on the fuel pump and a flare-nut wrench on the fuel line fitting...
i understand all that except ... what is a flare nut wrench?
First, have you tested the fuel pump flow yet? You can do that by removing the fuel line at the carburetor, place the end of line into a suitable container, then have an assistant crank the engine briefly while you monitor the discharge flow of the pump.
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Old 12-21-2002, 10:52 PM
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wow your picture is very pretty what big open ends you have.... thanks though for real... i am testing it tommorow before i go shopping for a new one
Old 12-21-2002, 11:11 PM
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o yeah and the headlights dim when i crank the car...
i have a stock stereo that likes to fade in and out and its display fades in and out as well but it keeps time.... alternator?
Old 12-22-2002, 06:57 AM
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Lets Target the Electrical concerns..

So the Car starts Hard...

A weak starter is the typical cause.. most chevy 305 and 350 use a Motor that is called 5 or 10 or 12 MT they are in various flavors.

they need lots of power and are about 60% effecient ( REALLY BAD) so when its time to replace it make sure you test everything from the connections and battery to the charging system or your going to do it all over again 6months from now..

All cars Dim the lights so understand the more obvious the diming the worse the Current draw.. 2 things cause this

1. not enough voltage/current
2. Bad Connections ( see above )

your battery might register 12.6volts but may only have a crank capacity of 100 amps ( barely enough to start a good motor )
* by that good-motor I mean a stock low compression no advanced timing Well broke in motor..

a crystalized battery ( sulfation crystals) you will have very poor capacity but alright voltage.. sulfuric acid reachs a specific gravity far lower then normal and reacts with the water and the plates to form conductive crystals that short out batteries..Hence Keep a battery charged at all times..

if your starter shorts internally it will draw more current as its field strength is defeating itself causing an even greater demand for power.. This is caused from long time wear or OVER -cranking
NEVER Crank more then 20 seconds..

If your battery does not have the current it will be supplied from the Linear related term called VOLTAGE...

Voltage goes down the current goes UP and then the field strength goes down and the temperature goes up ..
So All motors Starters POwer windows and Fans should never come on while the car is NOT RUNNING.. if the charging system is inactive the voltage is way lower and the current demand is higher...Hence the Light Diming...
Old 12-22-2002, 12:37 PM
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jsu,

As Hrock has explained, some voltage drop is normal during cranking, so some dimming of the lights is normal. As he is also pointing out, it is best to have all accessories and lights off when starting.

As for the fuel filter, the Haynes manual you apparently have should explain the process, but you should use two wrenches to remove the fuel line and filter. By your description of your symptoms, you may be lucky and find that you only have a plugged fuel filter.
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Old 12-23-2002, 08:39 PM
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when i start it i have to continue to give it gas for about 5 inutes or it will go dead??? any suggestions
Old 12-23-2002, 11:38 PM
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Yes. The reason you have to feather the throttle is because the fuel mixture is too lean to operate the engine. This can be caused by one or more of several possibilities:

1. Clogged fuel filter;

2. Failing fuel pump;

3. Low carburetor float/fuel level;

4. Improper idle mixture adjustment;

5. Improperly adjusted choke;

6. Incorrect ignition and/or valve timing;

7. Low fuel volatility;

8. Excessive vacuum leaks;

9. Restricted exhaust.

Many of the problems can be eliminated if you would remove the fuel line from the carburetor and test the fuel pump output flow. If there is addequate fuel flow and the filter is replaced, the rest of the problems are easier to diagnose. We'll all learn a lot about your situation and reduce our guessing if you could do that.
Old 12-23-2002, 11:58 PM
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Since the car was abandoned and sat without any gas in it for an undetermined amount of time, you may have a rusted gas tank which is plugging up the filter and lines with the loose rust. This is never a good situation, it requires replacing the fuel tank and blowing compressed air through the fuel lines from carb baclk to the tank. Replace all filters and pump while you're at it.
Old 12-26-2002, 05:53 PM
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JSU,

Any progress?
Old 12-28-2002, 08:49 PM
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i wont be able to work on it until... late spring... but i can do a little this week.. i aint got no money...
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Old 12-28-2002, 08:54 PM
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the reason i cant work on it is because i gotta get back to school and i gotta do drum corps this summer...
but i will try to work on this fuel system this week
Old 12-30-2002, 11:20 AM
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
the car looks good visually and since you are in the south I assume you have no rust issues. When you get time really concentrate on the engine and you will be happy. Just keep us informed of your progress.
Old 01-08-2003, 05:14 PM
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There arent any rust problems yet, but the clear coat is going and you can see it pretty well on the roof. but i am 350 miles from my bird now... sigh ..... thanks for all of your help guys!!!
Old 01-08-2003, 05:42 PM
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yea man thats a nice looking car for being abandoned... good luck with it.
Old 01-08-2003, 07:08 PM
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Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Allright, I'll take a poke too...

The car sat, and is old, one or both battery connections suck. When you get a chance... First check the ground connection to the block, this is usually the one that cruds up after a long sit. Alos, it seems that you're probably running on just what you pour in, so your float and/or choke probably are stuck up. Get a rebuild kit and have at it. Once you check and/or fix these and give it a quickie tune up (clean and gap the plugs you have, check the resistance in your wires, inspect the cap and rotor), it will be easier to diagnose all the other crap. Good luck!
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