Xenodrgn

I picked up my vorteccs today, 3 bent exhaust valves but the heads are in perfect condition, studs ae all still in, the guides are fine and so is the deck...

I'll cut out the old valves, and put in new ones...

What should I do to these vortecs to make them even better? Every last HP I can get out of these will help. They're going on a flat-top 350, with roughly 10:1 compression, probably a tad more. Powermax 2050 cam.

JPrevost

I would get them worked over for screw in studs, higher lift (guides milled down), and larger spring seats. Other than that I wouldn't do anything. It's been said before, vortecs flow very well out of the box and require only minor work for a few extra hp but going to bigger valves isn't worth the trouble.

Xenodrgn

i should mention, I'm not pumping any more money into these heads than I have to. They are going on my budget buildup motor and any money that I can save will be saved.

I'm going with a relativly low lift cam, the powermax 2050, which is: Int/Exh: Adv. Dur. 272/284, Dur. @ .050" 216/228. Lift: .454"/.480" 112LSA

I'll be using GMPP springs, the stock keepers and retainers, however like you mentioned th guides will need to be worked for the lift. The press in studs shouldn't have a problem however.

So I suppose what your telling me is just clean them up, polish the exhaust ports and do some gasket matching and I'm set? Is there any inparticular weakness that these heads have design wise that I could work on to gain a few extra ponies?

F-BIRD'88

Do the exhaust ports. Nothing radical here is needed. Just a good cleanup, blend the bowl area and shortside radius under the valve.
The valve guide boss is the major impedment to flow.
Ya can't grind it right out, but you can smooth, thin and streamline it. Do not try to enlarge the port opening at the header flange, it is big enough. But do remove the rough cast surface then smooth and polish with stones and sanding rolls.
This is all I would do for your purposes. I wouldn't touch the intakes or chamber at all. They flow more than enough for your performance goals.
This general cleanup on the exhaust port is worth about 20cfm
on a flow bench.
If you can swing it , have the exhaust valves "back cut" with a 30 deg angle cut. The new recent production Vortecs are coming throu with this done from the factory.
If your heads have "3 bent valves" you'd best have the seats and guides checked just in case. May have to touch up the seats.
Do this after you've finished with your porting.

Messing with the intakes will only help at high lift, higher than you have. so don't bother.
Save that for another day, if you build a more radical combination. I'm sure you'll enjoy the Vortec heads done as above.

Xenodrgn

a buddy of mine pulled off the spring, keepers and retainer from an intake valve... I tried to pull it out, but couldn't... it would come halfway out and then just not come out any further... any ideas?

F-BIRD'88

If you can get it out far enough to get a small cutoff wheel
(die grinder) in there without hitting the seat, You could cut the head off the valve and push it back through.

You could also us a cutting torch to cut the head off.
You're going to need a full valve job after this.

Just curious..

How much do assembled Vortecs or bare vortecs go for in your area of the U.S.?? We get them new dirt cheap here in Southern Ontario.
Not worth messing with a used damaged head here.

Xenodrgn

Nah, they're not damaged... besides the 3 bent exhaust valves... I picked up this set for 150.

This intake valve was straight, I'm just curious as to why it's no sliding out like it should... could there be buildup on the VC side that I'd need to knock off first?

The exhaust valves are half open, and very stuck. They'll be cut out and pushed out. 3 new valves and some valve grinding compound should do it.

Xenodrgn

new ones go for 500 a set, assembled.

F-BIRD'88

Same here, only in Canadian funds.

thats like $325US hummmm...

What would you pay for a set that have screwin studs, guideplates, your choice of 1.94x1.50 or 2.02x1.60 valves
new high perf springs and shortened valveguide bosses?

Ready to bolt on. U.S. money

1991tealRSt-topGuy

whoa, erik DO NOT go cutting anything!

the reason that valve will not come out is because you have to remove the valve seal first

1991tealRSt-topGuy

i was the one who got him the heads for $150

i closely looked at the valve guides of the 3 "bad" valves

from what i can see they appear to be ok

they MIGHT have excessive free play in them, but i DOUBT it because of where the valves bent, however once erik, cuts the 3 "bad" valves out, we will inspect it more closely, worse comes to worse, we will have to buy 3 oversized stem valves and drill out the 3 guides, thats the worst case scenario

as for the springs, i believe stock vortec springs are good up to .480" lift

erik's cam of choice is lower than that, so the stock springs might be ok

erik, the 10:1 compression is a little too high for pump gas with iron heads, we're going to have to get you the largest head gaskets possible, most likely

Mark A Shields

You can run 10:1 on pump gas, just I don't think you can advance the timing much.

1991tealRSt-topGuy

mark- thats not practical at all considering this is erik's daily driver

Xenodrgn

.. I knew that...

(note sarcasm)

Mark A Shields

Well, if he doesn't care about using super unleaded.

1991tealRSt-topGuy

hey, dont feel bad man, we all make mistakes

when i was pulling the intermediate shaft out of the engine we are rebuilding in school, i burred up one of the cam bearings beyond belief today

1991tealRSt-topGuy

ummm considering his budget, and his travel i dont think he wants to

Xenodrgn

I've been told by people who run them, that because of the newer chamber design, I can get away healthily with 10:1 on the street.

1991tealRSt-topGuy

hey- its worth a shot