firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

well guys, i went to the track today, for the first time after installing a 5 spd trans, it was cool outside, about 55 degrees at most.

the car ran great the first pass, it went 15.26 @ 93.7 mph

serious wheel hop on launch, barked tires at every shift, including into 4th,
i was trying successfully to maintain a temp of about 180 degrees, while moving through the stage lane.

2nd pass
figured out how to 3 foot the car, so i managed to get some heat in the tires, wheel hop wasn't as bad, but still there... approaching my shift point 5k in both first and second gear.... the car started to stumble like it needed more gas or was floating valves.... 3rd and 4th gear were fine, all the way through rpm range time.......16.02 @ 90-91 mph

3rd pass, basically the same as the second run, 15.99 @ a similar mph

at this point i had no more chances for test and tune, it was either go home, or try and pick a time, then try to run that time, and possibly hurt the car, because i couldn't find any obvious reason for the problems...

later after the car sat for a couple hours, and cooled off most all the way, i got it to running temp (180) and went out on a back road and simulated run, it was flawless, and felt stronger than my first run at the track...

i have an idea, that just maybe i was boiling fuel in the fuel bowl and line, that is in the engine compartment, then by the time i got through 1st , 2nd. i was drawing fule from further down the line that had not been heated yet.

sorry for length i just wanted to try and give as much detail as i could to get good responses from you guys.....thanks in advance

No4NJunk

Are you inquiring vapor lock. Not sure I understand whats happening. Do your fuel lines run close to your headers? This could cause the fuel to boil and turn to vapor. But it wouldn't only boil in the bowl. The comartment heat is not enough to do that. If your running an open element then you will feel a difference in power when the car is at operating temp from startup. sounds like its the headers. Our fuel line is routed on the passenger side and sits about 2 inches aways from any shorty headers I've seen (at least this was my problem).

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

No4NJunk, so basically, you think i'm on the right track then..????
with a vapor lock issue?

i'm thinkin its time to re route fuel lines or check into a 'cool' can but i heard those aren't even IHRA legal.... and my track is sanctioned by them, so..........


anyone else???

zupmanZ28

you had two inches of clearance? Damn, i had about two millimeters. I was having much the same problem you were for a while, except my fuel line would actually burn and leak, all over the header, (scary i know).

Being that your carbed you can do the same thing i did. Cut the hard fuel line back by the tranny after it crosses over. the frame rail is hollow and has several holes big enough for you to feed a soft rubber line up through. Then drill about a 3/4" inch hole in the side of the frame rail right next to the fuel pump, and put a rubber grommet in there. Feed the line through that hole and down and out of the hole you found in the rail down by the tranny. Connect that part to the hard line, and connect the other end to the fuel pump (you can get the nessesary fittings at pep boys or wherever). then just yank out the piece of hard line you cut and your done. And since the fuel is now running in the frame rail, you have an instant heat shield. i haven't had a problem since...

Eric

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

zupman,
i have similar clearance as you, the 2 mm, mine is closest to the header where it passes the collector.....i considered the idea of running the line inside the frame rail, but wasn't sure if it would work or more importantly if the tech man would still let me race, the guy has this big vendetta against rubber fuel line, he says i already have to much, which is cuz its no longer than stock would be.

any other ideas.......????? thanks for the thoughts you 2 that already replied

zupmanZ28

how about getting some braided soft line? Should still flex enough to get through the frame rail. No tech has ever given me trouble with it, but then again they are pretty lax around here about little crap like that.

Eric

No4NJunk

zupman your right it is like 2mm. But anyway. I just bought 1/2 aluminum fuel line and replaced it all the way to the tank. took care of problem and since mechanical pumps are gravity fed this helps with that also. I got the nice anodized fittings .

It looks so perty!!

you'll need a pipe bender. You can get them for like 10 bucks at most auto stores. hand held.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

anyone else got any thoughts on this?????

rb i usually look forward to your opinion... but have yet to see it though you may have looked and decided that we have it covered

ChrisFormula355

Hmmm.......breaks the tires loose into 4th......thats gotta be like 80mph........with a 305 running low 15s?? Sorry....just point'n out the obvious

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

i didn't say it will send the car sideways, i said barked the tires, i heard the screech,

and i wasn't grabbing 4th at 80mph, more like 70mph, the trans is from a 4 cyl car, gears are, 3.76/2.18/1.42/1/.72 use a speed calculator using 25.1in tire height, and 3.73 rear shifting at 4900 to 5000 rpm

you weren't there, so don't wave the bs flag at me......


for crying out loud i can bark third in my 4 cylinder toyota, with a 4 spd..

street tires can only do so much for traction, and the suspension is completely stock

now back to the question ...........

No4NJunk

Chris if you don't have something positive to add then shut the hell up. This post wasn't even about that. He is having a problem and obviously isn't bragging so why would you throw salt at an open wound. This posting **** for no reason is getting old. I used to own an 86 chevette that would bark the tires through 4th gear. Was it fast......no. Did it have skinny, hard *** tires that got absolutely no traction.......yes.

firechicken_3

iTrader: (4)

thanks, No4NJunk... :hail:

some people that have nothing good to say should, keep to themselves. half the reason the car runs 15's is the trashy 60ft time, the best is like a 2.38.... i realize drag radials would help that, but money is the issue there, and the fear of breaking the rearend or transmission, chris if you met me on the street just like many others before have said, "there is no way thats a 305", after having left them at a stop light.

anyhow back to the subject at hand, i am trying to figure out how i could run a steel hardline inside the frame rail but i don't think i could get it up through there with a 90 degree bend in it to get it out the side by the pump, so i guess i will look into braided line. it'll make the tech man happy and it looks cool too

also no4njunk, could you send me a pic of the car you sig talks about..i don't have any money but i am curious what the color looks like

guffer3@mchsi.com