Xenodrgn

Ok, so this guy is selling an 84Z... originially equipped with a L69... solid top... been hit in the front, replaced with a berlinetta nose... not a super clean car, however not too far gone, with some TLC could be nice...

Here is the story I got on the car... Kid owned it... beat the **** out of it and rear-ended someone... got pissed off and proceeded to blow the motor... sold it to a guy that put the 350 on it also put in a TH350 and a Holley carb...... some wires are butchered but the car starts right up... he built it to race at Englishtown... lost interest and needed a truck... traded the guy I'm buying from now the car for the truck he need... the guy I'm talking to now wanted to race it at Englishtown too.. never registered it... the trans leaked a little so he put in a little stop leak and it's been fine... drives it at least every month to keep everything good... the motor has the typical Chevy valve seal issue, but it's not bad and clears right up...

My questions:
1) What should I look out for... I know butchered wires are a no-no, but everything works including lights and rear-wiper! it has an electric fan with a switch... Anything I need to look at closely or inspect well... What's the easiest way to read the block numbers? I tried to get at them with a mirror but no dice...

2) I have no room to keep it at my house, he says he and his wife have no problem with me keeping the car at his house under next spring when I could swap the motor into my SC... Anyone have any horror stories about people who do this? i'd have the title (clean BTW)

3) He wants 900 for it, but he said it's negotiable... what should I offer him? What's the most I should pay?

4) any other comments or suggestions for me? I need them all and the sooner the better! I go back to school tonight!

Xenodrgn

Also, I can have him check the number the carb, and then I can figure the type/kind/CFM the carb is...

What is the minimum CFM you'd put on a 350? If it comes back to be a 600CFM carb, is it safe to say it's a 305?

I'd really like someone to come with me that knows about 350's and finding block numbers... but I know no one...... any takers? If this is the real deal I don't wanna pass this up...

89WS-6

So, the body/interior arent i to great of shape, and you are basically going to use it as a parts car, and take the engine and trany, maybe rear end, and stuff it into your 2.8? Well, how bad is the car your going to buy? Have you thought about doing the opposite? Putting the stuff the 350 needs from your 2.8? Tell me more information. The block numbers arent hard to find... And if it is a 600 carb that does not in any way mean its a 305. I have two freinds who are running 600 edelbrocks on their 350's. Anyways, get back to me.

Xenodrgn

Ok, I could do two things if I were to get this car... I could;

1) Take the engine out of the Z (the V8) and put it into my SC (-excellent body/interrior) and use my friends 700R4 for gas milage reasons (this route and the car has to be street/strip friendly)

2) Try to fix the Z28 up a little... gut it, rip the remainging computer stuff out, patch up the wiring harness and race it on the weekends...

I'm leaning towards #1 because it will be more practial for me and cheaper for me (no insurance on 2 cars)

my SC is in very good condition... it's just held back by a noisy 2.8 with no ***** and a dying tranny...

The z28 isn't torn to shreds, but it's not -nice- by any means... the drivers seat is torn, smells of mildew, tint is coming off... it's for a berlinetta front flip (was hit and replaced).. the 350 starts right up and runs quietly and smooth as glass... a little bog when he first pulled the butterflies open but went away after that initial instance... it's still got the manifolds on it... I just really need to see if this thing is a 305 or a 350... I tried again later today and simply couldn't find the numbers, either that or I couldn't get my hnad down far enough... the wiring is fuxed up... right now the engine isn't computer controlled, but still has the harness all cut up in the car... there are wires leading to places and spliced together and do odd things.. but supposedly -everything- on the car works... including the rear-wiper... the lights, the fan was rigged to a switch.. the alt charges the battery... but it does not look like it has a vac advance dist on it... I noticed the Holley is not computer controlled thats for sure...

I said to the man today, "honestly, you're a chevy man, compared to your sons Monte SS 305, how does this car feel to you" he replied, "this car definatly has more ***** than my sons MOnte Carlo, I mean, this car is hot"...

I know it doesn't say much, but he also supposedly can spin the peg leg from a stop (the car has 3.73's, but no posi, unfortunatly).. I would certainly hope it can do that... I checked the fluids... the trans fluid was still red, with wisps of black... not too far gone, nothing a little driving and a fluid and filter change can't fix... the oil was black, and a half a quart low...

I looked at the underside of the motor, and it seemed to be caked with grease, I mean the oilpan just seemed like it could use a wiping... my friends LT is like that, and doesn't really say anything, the car has been sitting for quite a while also...

I felt the back of the balancer, because supposedly you can tell if it's a 350 or not that way... I KNOW IT'S NOT FOOLPROOF, but supposedly certain years certain balancers on certain small blocks had certain balacers... this one was not hollow... he could not give me a date on the block, however I know it is not a roller block, the waterpump off his wifes Suburban will fit it (when you take a plug out of the pump... supposedly from the factory one outlet come plugged for the Suburban) and he seems to remember the guy he got it from saying something about it being an early, to midd 80's block...

So is that enough info... that's everything... raw and painfully true... I know people who have paid for built 305's in a rougher body for 700.. should I offer him that? He said his price won't change if I come to find out it's a 305... so...

Xenodrgn

c'mon.. reply... if the car is stll there when I go back I will get the block numbers and be sure... and most likly make him an offer if it's a 350... what's the easiest way to get at the numbers.. I tried a mirror and couldn't find them...

I also need your opinions, thoughts, and comments.... please!!! I gave you all every detail I have...

89WS-6

hey man, go to this website, it should help you out.

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

You can probably find out where the casting numbers are in a search on MSN or something if its not on that site. Good luck though.

Xenodrgn

Ok, I've been looking too high.. it's on the ledge below the deck near where the tranny bolts up.. I was looking up higher near the deck... I'll look next weekend...

Xenodrgn

If it's a 350, and with all the info I gave you, what should I offer and what is the most I should pay? Remember he's asking 900 but said it's negotiable...

1991tealRSt-topGuy

offer $600

thats what i paid for my Z28 that needed a trans

Xenodrgn

Awesome, thanks Glenn... I'll offer 500, and maybe go up to 700... hehehe...

cjwilson99

In situations like this I always start at halfway. Which means offer him $450 and work from there.

The quick and dirty way to tell if its a 305 or 350 is to look at the starter bolts. The straight pattern is 305 and the staggered bolt pattern is 350 or 400.

Xenodrgn

CJwilson...

Please elaborate... both 1991tealRSt-topguy and I will tear through the car this weekend and make a decision from there... but any input you can offer is taken into account!

cjwilson99

The top starter bolt pattern is a 350 or 400 block. The botton is 80's 305. But there is a disclaimer to this. The 70's 305s did use the staggered bolt pattern for the starter. So i am told. But as far as thirdgens this is pretty safe. Not too many people would swap in a 305 from 70's I think.

cjwilson99

here is link to the pic i tried to post.
http://www.geocities.com/cjwilso_99/starterpattern.jpg

Xenodrgn

CJ! Thank you so much! I will be sure to look at this when I head out there... I'll also bring my mortec list with me in case we actually figure out how to get at the casting numbers with the engine still in the car...

I am also told that there is a difference with the heads and exhaust manifolds, but I cannot remember that one... it was late at night when I read it and I cannot remember it...

So far I'm feeling pretty well armed with information... It should be interesting... I hope the guy doesn't flip out when I offer him an insanely low amount of money... but I am prepared to pay him his asking price, but I also know he's negotiable... so we'll see...

evil t/a

Do not go off of that at all. I have two 350's that use the straight bolt pattern (One in the car , one the garage) 86 and 90 blocks . That is not a way to tell what size it is.

cjwilson99

I stand corrected. The only sure fire way is to use the casting #s. I use the starter bolt method because I am too lazy to try and get at casting #s on these blocks while in these cars. It works well if you are sure it is the original engine in the car. I was not aware of the newer 90's engine blocks. I learn something new everyday.

Xenodrgn

This is definatly an earlier model block... not a newer one... still has the stock carb intake on it... just a Holley and a spacer bolted ontop...

Thanks for backing that up... I'll take it with a grain of sand...

Randy82WS7

get staping suffix code off the flat pad on pass side front pad under alternator, you cn lok down on it from above behind alrternator all you need is last three letter, like CDJ, etc etc

use those and type them in at www.google.com like this: cdj stamping or cdj suffix

youll find out wat it is


to find out if its an 80-up or 55-79 look where oil stick is, 80-up are on pass side and older on driver side

look at balancer, if its about 1.5" wide and 8" then its 350 if its not solid back balancer

if its about 2.25 or so wide and 7" then its a 305

if its skinny like 3/4" or 1" then its a 265 or 283 or 307 or 327, '73 or older (307 last in '73 and 283 last in '67)

stamping suffix letters code will tell you wht tranny and what car and what year and what size and what HP and what mains

also last part of VIN of original engine is on this stamping pad on alot of engines, but not all, there were three different pads sizes cast, three different lengths.. this gets complicated though.,


casting number on abck of block is pretty general and will tell you year(s) and size(s) usually but alot of casting numbers were shared such as 397001 that can be a 302, 327 or 350, '69-'79, not 69-'80 like mortec says, remember the oil stick location change after '79

did you get car ?

good luck

Xenodrgn

This is old news, but I'll update...

Didn't buy the car... first red flag... when I would hold it at about 2 grand... definatly missing... it would stutter... my friend with me thought it was the cam... but I dunno...

#2, PS was blown, which he neglected to tell me until the certified friend showed up...

#3, he wanted 700 for me to take it off the yard... the original deal was for him to keep it there... my final offer was 600 to keep it there, he wouldn't hear of it, so I wished him luck and walked away...

I however am now building a vortec head, powermax 2050, flat-top 360 (350, .06 over)... I'll be picking the heads up this weekend, and the motor in a few weeks...