Maiköl

Hi

Im new to the forums and i have been trying almost everything with my 305. The engine is from 1500 pickup so it`s vin: H. Cranks good, spark from all plugs, good spray of fuel, good compression pressure (160psi) but just wont run ! if i have everything hooked on it will fire about 4 times on the first try but if i continue it wont fire anymore. if i take the injector fuse off it will try firing much better but again wont run because there is not anymore fuel. This is driving me crazy, i have tried anything i can imagine so thats why i now came to ask you guys if you have any idea what this could be :/

The engine is totally rebuild and it has:

-block bored 0,030" over and deck surfaces checked
-new Sealed Power 534np pistons with Mahle piston rings
-every single bearing and gasket replaced
-about 2000miles driven distributor
-MSD blaster coil
-Flowtech shorty headers
-Edelbrock aircleaner
-completely rebuild tbi with Standard rebuild kit and also ultimate tbi mods
-new knock sensor and oil pressure sensor
-Comp cams camshaft kit cs xe262h - 14
- 416" casting heads aka 58cc combustion chambers, ported
-timing set dot - to - dot
-accel 576 sparkplugs
-comp cams magnum full roller rocker arms 1,5 ratio
-PLX devises wide band lambda

Does anyone have a chart what should the ecm sensor values be when checking with aldl wire? I need values when key turned on but not cranked.

If you have anything in mind please share ! Hope my english isnt too bad

Schurkey

1. Spark plugs fouled?

2. Your cranking compression figure (160 psi, all cylinders) likely proves that the cam timing is OK, and the valves are closing.

3. Any chance the distributor is 180 degrees out-of-alignment? Does the engine backfire when cranked?

4. I'd be suspicious of the MSD coil. Newer ones are high-failure items made in China. Test the spark to assure it's strong enough. I prefer a store-bought spark checker like this one:


5. How old is the gasoline?

6. Exhaust system plugged? (i.e., catalytic converter can flow exhaust--not melted, plugged, etc?)

7. Spark plug wires installed properly?

shugart111

i had the same problem and it was the fuel filter was clogged and fuel pump was failing. so check fuel pressure

Maiköl

I have ckecked the ignition timing so many times and it is correct i have emptied the hole gas tank and filled it with premium gas, also new fuel filter installed and pressure checked. There is a nice cone spray from the injectors. Sparkplugs brand new and tested that everyone gives spark. My exhaust is 3# all the way and only with one flowmasters muffler and has only been driven for 2000miles so shouldnt be plugged. There was original coil before and it didnt start with it either so i thought i uprage to MSD if the spark isnt strong enough to fire under compression. My sparkplug gap is set to 0.038. Going to go tomorrow to my garage and try to figure out what the hell is going on with this engine. It`s so strange because it has everything that engine needs to run, it seems like there would be some sensor that says stop running :/ Does anyone have winaldl screenshot or values what sensors should show when you turn the key and are ready to crank it?

Schurkey

Curious: If the engine won't run, HOW are you checking the ignition timing?

You have fuel (nice cone spray), you have air, you have compression (160 psi), you have a suitable exhaust system (3 psi). About the only thing left is ignition at the proper time--although we could quibble that there's no guarantee that the fuel/air mixture is burnable.




First Guess: Fouled plugs
Second Guess: Distributor mis-timed and/or rotor phasing problem
Third Guess: Plug wires installed improperly
Fourth Guess: Distributor cap/rotor failed--carbon button missing, cap has carbon tracks, voltage has "punched through" the rotor and now the spark grounds to the distributor advance assembly, etc.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

will it fire with a shot of ether/starting fluid?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If you dropped the distributor in with the cam timing set dot-to-dot, it is 180* out. That is TDC #6, not #1.

Which a timing light will show the correct timing, but is still 180 out.

RBob.

Maiköl

Schurkey: I did a dead stick timing so #1 tdc by piston stop and checked that it was in a right cycle and then the distributor rotor marks like this ><. The fuel should be burnable, here in Finland our premium fuel is 98octane with 5% ethanol. Sparkplugs should be correct and good. I checked the distributor and it should be good, no cracks, good connections.

RBob: yes i know but that was just for everyone to know that the timing isnt advanced, but thanks !

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

Since you are convinced that you timing is correct, all your ignition components are free of damage/defect, then I suggest you turn to the fuel. You said you have a nice cone spray at the injector? Are you even getting a sputter or backfire? If not, unplug the injector and spray some ether/starting fluid in the throttle body. If you still don't get as much as a sputter out of it then I'd rethink how confident you are about the condition of the coil, dizzy, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and timing.

Maiköl

Allright, got the engine to run, it was bad iac valve messing with everything. It looked allright with winaldl but wasnt doing anything when i tried to crank. I adjusted the base timing, plugged esc and it runned like a champ. Now the problem is that its bogging when i try giving it gas, it sounds like its not able to burn the fuel enough? Map reading is 50-55kpa at idle and lambda is between 0.98-1.07 and the iac is around 70. Does anyone have a clue what should be done? Im afraid to be running too much on idle because i need to run the cam in.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

One thing you didn't mention is what ECM or PCM you are using along with which calibration. Even so I don't know of any TBI SBC engines that didn't use swirl port heads.

In this case with the '416 heads there isn't enough spark advance. Bump up the base timing to 8* BTDC. Then get it running and the cam broken in.

With the cam the engine is going to be rich at lower RPMs. Once in closed loop the ECM will adjust the fueling some for the cam break-in. Which is going to be at higher RPM anyway.

RBob.