Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I can't fault you for trying, but if anything it makes the engine run hotter in hot weather. The factory L31 thermostats have a secondary flapper on the bottom that closes off the bypass when the engine is warm.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Pics will have to wait until after work.

On the bypass, edelbrock says it needs it so I'll put it on.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

They are WRONG on most later model GMs anyway.

The factory F-car cooling system already has a bypass though the heater core. Look at your factory heater diverter plumbing and you will see it for yourself.

The extra external bypass WILL MAKE YOUR ENGINE RUN HOT!!!!

I have a L31 and I deleted the factory bypass setup and use only the heater core for a bypass.

On my TPI Vortec in my 1983 G20 I did the same thing. Ran the hot water from the intake, through the throttle body, into the heater valve, which fed the heater core or bypassed to the radiator. No bypass from the intake to the water pump needed.

RS-Chevy-SS

Well Fast, I respect you very much and you obviously know more than me about these motors, however, I can report my findings and experience.

I run the bypass plumbed from the WP to the intake. I also run the AC on full blast. I've driven the car all day for the past 5 days or so(around 100 miles/day) in 90-95 degree ambient air with AC on. Both city and highway.

The car doesn't heat up. It has a 180 degree tstat in it and it runs between 185-200 depending on when I turn the fan on. I have the fan on a toggle and generally turn it on at 195ish and leave it until 185. Sometimes, in stop and go it cools to about 180 and stays there. And I do have the heater core hooked up as well.

Again no disrespect, just my experience. Did yours overheat?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

On the subject of water temp control, I think I will run a 180* thermostat and a 200* on, 185* off fan switch. Isn't there a gm switch with those temps? I would rather a gm one than a hypertech one for the convenience of availability and cost.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Here are the headers, passenger's side:



Driver's:



I was wrong on the spark plug clearance, I didn't have the plug screwed in all the way, just partially for painting. There is more than enough room for full length plugs:



These on the other side are not screwed in all the way, but same story, all kinds of room:



And now for the issue, nothing major. The passenger's side bolt holes in the flange are off slightly when the middle is bolted up. I will have to elongate the front and rear holes outward to fit them. The tube is centered in the ports, the holes are just off like this:

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I eliminated the two stage thermostat setup when I put the marine intake on my Express. On a 105°F day it was running 210°F with a 170° F thermostat. It doesn't top 195°F any longer. That 5/8" hose was bypassing alot of hot water directly back into the engine rather than flowing through the radiator. If you ever took a close look at the L31 intake manifold and thermostat you would notice it has a blocker ring that shuts the bypass off when the engine is hot.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I got with the seller before elongating the holes to make sure they didn't want me to send them back in. They told me to try it to see if it will work so a carbide bit in a dremel and a couple hours later and all 12 bolts are in no problem. The seller even gave me $29 back and I didn't even ask for it. So my total outlay in the headers is $106. Well worth the price now. Will be ordering the ypipe soon.

NotARobit

I was looking at the calculators for throttle bodies. From what I've seen, these lt4 hotcam builds can push 400hp. Is 48mm boring large enough?

RFmaster

47.5mm bore is plenty big - as a point of reference a lot of racing bodies - NASCAR Modified Tour/ SRL/ CRA/ UARA/ ASA Midwest specify Holley # 80507 390 CFM carburetor which limits engine output to about 625 to 700 horsepower range (in 350CID class). Interestingly enough from "How to Build and Power Tune Holley Carburetors" by Des Hammill, page 24 - 390 CFM 4-bbl carb has 1-7/16 primary and secondary bores and 1-1/16 venturi. Stock SBC TBI has 1-11/16" bores and flows about 490 CFM. So it is a question of giving engine what it needs to make power - air and fuel.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reassurance RF, I was concerned about that myself. I plan to put a vacuum gauge on it to see if I am pulling vacuum at wot.

NotARobit

Thanks RF.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I have decided how I am going to run the fuel to the external regulator. I ordered the return line RF referenced earlier in the thread as well as a couple npt to double flare fittings and flare nuts. I will use the original supply line and bend a new return line to the regulator. From there I will run hard line back to a union to the original return line. I think it will look better than AN or push-loc.

On another note, my y-pipe is also ordered so the only major cost left is having the transmission rebuilt. Lots of nickel and dime stuff but nothing too bad.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I built my spare injector pod, it was not difficult at all. The rebuild kit said to lube the o rings with atf so I did and it slid together pretty well. There were some tiny screens in the kit but they were not referenced in the exploded diagram or the instructions, nor did I remove any so perhaps they were used in some rarely?



Here is the nifty regulator block off I made using some aluminum, I cut the center out of the old diaphram to use as a gasket.



My install date gets closer and closer.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

So why the remote fuel pressure regulator?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I think it is easier than modding the internal on. A spring is 18 dollars, this regulator was 22 and it has a gauge. Also the accessibility of adjustments is not even comparable.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

You are wise beyond your years.

Thanks for sharing that information. The access improvement, with gauge, is certainly food for thought.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I don't know about beyond my years, lol.

I got the fuel line and flaring tool with my fittings today and have it's location mocked up.



I will make a bracket bolted to the intake bolt to support the regulator.

I also got my flowtech y-pipe and dry fit it on the engine stand. Bolted right up to the ebay headers.





That is all my updates for now.

RFmaster

That location for FPR may interfere with your throttle and TV cables!

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

It will be tight but I think I can squeeze it in.

RS-Chevy-SS

It will definitely interfere with them as it stands. That is exactly where the bracket goes.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

The RPM Airgap is taller, I have to raise the throttle linkage by welding new legs to it.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I took some measurements and the FPR will stick out past the throttle bracket. I can thread the fuel line between the cables no problem if I need to. If it doesn't work I will just flip the line over and put it on the passenger's side then run the line back to the driver's side and endure the "I told you so"s.

RFmaster

Nope - you'll not get it from me!! Just be aware the passenger side is just as busy - the main wiring harness is coming down from the firewall. Also you have EGR valve and IAC taking up some space. Simply put it is crowded in there.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well the tubing kinker, er bender, and I came up with this:



The line snakes lower than the cables mimicing the OE routing. It clears the air cleaner and the valve cover, all is good in the world.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I gave DCTrumpet a call, nice guy, and ordered a custom worked throttle body lower from him. I should have it in about a week, only one more month until I am off for my swap!

RS-Chevy-SS

The suspense is killing me. Seems so far away. Gonna sound great when you fire it up though. Might even hang with my mighty 5.0 H.O. lol

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Killing you, I'm dying here, lol! The El Camino I traded for this car had 320 horses, I need to feel power again.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I redid the fuel return line and it came out a lot cleaner. It very closely follows the plenum and puts the regulator just over the valve cover.

RS-Chevy-SS

How is it with the throttle bracket?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

It goes under the cables with plenty of room.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Got my throttle body base today and assembled the pod to it, sneak peak:

RS-Chevy-SS

Engine needs to fire!

RS-Chevy-SS

Well, its a month later

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Don't laugh, Monday was the start of my shutdown but I have been working dayshift and doing things in the afternoon. Yesterday I brought this home, again don't laugh:



It is a 83 Z28 and it is rough but it runs and drives and has a five speed. I traded the hull of a car I parted out for it. The guy was into G-bodies, I'm into F-bodies so we both won.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Nice piece on the hood. 9mm or 45?

RS-Chevy-SS

Very nice. Needs a wash and I'm sure body work but good project car especially since it currently runs

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

In between those two, .40 S&W. I didn't think about it when I set it down until I went to take a pic, then I was just too lazy to move it. I had taken it out of my truck and was bringing it in.

Frickin car is full of ants. If it was spiders I would have had to of nuked it from orbit 87 times.

tyeo098

Could be worse. I found evidence of mammalian squatters in my Firebird..

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I found more than that once in a junkyard. A venemous reptilian slitherer in the process of eating the mammalian.

tyeo098

lol


More pics of the new ride, and drop that engine in already!
Lets get some videos of the new kitty purring

And git that nasty piece of Austrian plastic away from the American Muscle!
Go put a 1911 on the hood if you want to go all-American style

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

The car has power Lear Siegler seats with blue Camaro Camaro Camaro every where. Sooooo tacky. I am very happy with the trade, I got a dual snorkel air cleaner (possibly a vette unit), an extra 85-90 chin spoiler, and some other random camaro parts.

Tomorrow I am hoping to get on the 90 after work. I still have some parts to move, I will have to see how the cards fall.

RS-Chevy-SS

Fixed that for you

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I have been busy working on it today. Paused to watch the new adventure time, lol.

I have to pull the hood and hook up the load leveler then yank it out. Well after unhooking the stuff I missed.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well turns out I missed the grounds on the back of both heads and the air tube coming off of the cat. The load leveler made the job soooooo much easier, it really is priceless in the swap.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

So far today, before:



After:



Changed the mounts since I already had new ones. The old ones had sagged a little bit but honestly were in good shape. Regardless since I'm in this deep it would be foolish not to. I also swapped out the sway bar for an Iroc unit. I had primed and sanded it smooth then painted it red to match my UMI wonder bar.

I may do some more today, I still need to move the accessories over and separate the engine from the trans so I can take it to the builder. It is getting some decent goodies, trans go kit (not the $40 one), wider band, 2200 stall and some other stuff that is voodoo to me, lol.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

That cleaned up nice.

Is this triangular brace (for the steering gear box?) a standard f-body piece? I had not noticed it before, but I have only spent a limited amount of time under my car.

RS-Chevy-SS

Very nice. Well how'd you do the motor mounts?

While its out, throw a CS144 in it

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I am not sure what years got the K member braces but they are available aftermarket if you do not have them.

As for the motor mounts, I did them with a box end wrench up inside the K member for the top bolts and a socket on a swivel for the bottom one. I siliconed the washers to the nuts so I wouldn't have to struggle with getting them on there. Luckily the nuts are flanged crimp nuts.

RS-Chevy-SS

You have more patience than me. I messed with swivels for an hour and then just dropped both LCAs