Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I have a grind in my Express that runs hard and idles smoother than a hotcam. Its 271/276 @ .006, 215/220 @ .050, .534/.544" lift, 114 lsa, advanced 4 on a 110 icl. Its a Lingenfelter spec Comp grind that I had ground 4° advanced. I pulled it down to 2,300 rpm with a locked torque converter amd it was already over 320 rwtq @ 2,300.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Do you happen to have a part number, 320 rwhp is pretty awesome for something that mild. Was this in a L31 long block stock?

Thanks again

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Stock shortblock with Etec170 heads. Marine port fuel intake and doug thorley long tubes into dual 2.5" pipes into a single 3" tailpipe. It was 320 rwtq at 2,300 but peaked 368 tq @ 4,900 and peak HP of 374 @ 5700. Those numbers are from a locked converter, 2nd gear pull that still topped 100 mph!

RFmaster

Fast355

Do you really need all that valve lift for E-tec head???
Roller cam profiles tend to have a faster ramp and ramp off profile vs. conventional flat tappet profiles once you past 0.050 lift. That way valve stays open at higher lift longer vs. a flat tappet cam. Yes, higher lift improves port flow, but by how much?? - just trying to balance amount of head work needed ($$$) vs. performance gain.

//RF

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

They are good to .575" lift out of the box, I already had the 1.6:1 rocker arms to get that lift, and the according to Edelbrock the heads go from 232 cfm to 238 cfm intake and exhaust from 183 cfm to 190 cfm going from .500 up to .600.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I meant a part number for that cam. The hot LT4 cam is the for runner at the moment though.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I messed with the usb serial adapter last night and got it working four hours later. If I was an IT guy it probably would have been a thirty minute set up. I had to get the adapter to use com port 1 and set tunerpro to look for it on the same port.

The cable fails the test for one in tunerpro but it works just fine in the car. I have hard wired in the cable and put the adapter in a plate where the ashtray way. Now I can just flip up the door, plug in a USB cable and see my data.

I have also ordered the Alex's parts roller cam vortec spring kit. The kit is supposed to get me up to .550 lift. The hot cam is still looking good but I haven't set it in stone yet.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I hate to keep bumping my own thread but here are some pics of Tunerpro RT running through USB on a windows 8 tablet:

Dashboard mode


Data list mode


The prom the car is running on was burned using this tablet as well, it is a Dell Venue 8 pro.

RS-Chevy-SS

Time to put that equipment to good use and swap that motor!

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

That's pretty slick. I think you've got a lot more patience than I do.

RFmaster

'1980

Which tablet do you use?
How well can you see against sun glare?

//RF

RS-Chevy-SS

What exactly did you do to get tunerpro to see the cable? I can get winaldl to see it but tunerpro is giving me issues.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Hey RS, in Tunerpro RT go to preferences and the data acquisition tab and select the com port that you are running your data cable through. Then close that all out and open Acquisition and edit definition. In that pop up have the baud at 4800 and uncheck the RS232 echo box. I set my connection and monitor both to 160 baud.

RF, I am using a Dell Venue 8 Pro tablet. The sun will wash out the display if it is in it directly but if you can have shade on it, you can see fine.

LT4 hot cam is ordered and on it's way from Summit. I am thinking about ordering a new balancer also since it is barely $30 on Amazon. All I have left to acquire is an intake manifold and tbi adapter. I get about a week of vacation in late June, early July that I plan to use to swap the motor in. Everything is coming together in a fine manor.

RS-Chevy-SS

So I followed your instructions and got tuner pro to see the cable. Says DA Connected.

Now how do I get the data to show up?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Great, that part is easy. Under the acquisition tab near the bottom select data list and double click the header when it pops up in the lower part of the window. You have to hit escape to exit the full screen. If you select dashboard, you have to.right click and assign each gauge.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Lots of parts showed up today, got my cam, valve springs and fuel pressure regulator. I will put the cam and valve springs together after work and perhaps clean up what little there is and paint the motor.

ETA:

Found out the wife has a doctor's appointment in the morning so I didn't get to do as much as I wanted. I only managed to get the valve springs swapped out. It took about an hour and a half and I used the twine trick. I modified my valve spring compressor to center on the retainer better, it had too much side to side slop so I welded in a dowel pin on each side and it worked awesome. The Alex's Parts spring installed height come in at the required height without any shims, it is a nice looking kit. Here is a comparison shot between the OE springs and the AP spring.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Cam is in and engine is painted. I have the lifters and push rods soaking in mineral spirits, I will scrub and install them tomorrow. I have sourced an intake from the third gen classifieds, an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-gap.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

The lifters are not hard to disassemble. I would remove the internals and soak the disassembled lifter in spirits, then wipe clean and reassemble. The lifters have an internal spring and the little clip likes to fly for parts unknown, so wear safety glasses and work in an area you can find the clip if it escapes.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Good idea, I might disassemble and clean them when I get home from work.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Lifters have been taken apart and cleaned one at a time and then soaked in 5w30. The lifters and dog bones are in and the spider is torqued down. Valves have been lashed and the timing cover has been installed and torqued down to spec as well. Tomorrow I will go reclaim my engine hoist from my father-in-laws and I will button up the oil pan as well.

RFmaster

On the oil pan gasket installation....
If you are using FelPro (or GM ) one piece oil pan gasket - OS34500R do not use RTV except in four locations: 2x corners of the timing cover half moon slot where it buts against block oil pan plane and 2x corners at the rear of the engine where main oil seal holder intersects block and gasket makes a sharp turn. All you need ~ 1" length 1/4" thick bed of RTV in each direction from the corner. Elsewhere oil pan gasket goes dry. Just make sure that mating surfaces (oil pan and block) are clean.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Today I picked up my hoist from my father-in-law and helped him diddle with his vette for a while. Once I got it home I broke out the degreaser and repainted it. I picked up my hoist second hand over 15 years ago, it's one of the heavy guys that will still be around long after I'm not.

I finished that up and degreased and painted the oil pan. I followed RF's advice (thanks for the pointer RF) and installed the pan. I did some cleaning and rearranging in the garage and tossed some oil dry down where I have been working on the motor. I moved the motor up so I can get my bike out and noticed my bike tag is expired, crap in a hat.

I can't wait to drop this in on my week off coming up. All I need to pick up are a few gaskets, tbi adapter and the headers and Y-pipe. Thanks for the advice and comments, keep it coming.

Here it is currently:

RS-Chevy-SS

That's what I said "can't wait for my week off". Spent my WHOLE week off working on it non stop. In my defense it was my first swap and I solely went off of knowledge from reading various tips on how to do it haha.

By day 5 I was over it. Day 8 was the day it fired.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I got my intake today and I installed it after work, Performer RPM Air-Gap baby! Hot rodders look away, I painted it semigloss black. I torqued it down to 11 ft-pds with blue lock tight.

I dimpled the china wall on the block to help retain the rtv:


I did the same to the intake but not as aggressive:


I am happy with the amount of squish I got, I had a little more in the back than the front but here is how the front come out:


Anyway the build is almost complete, headers will be here Monday and I still need to order an adapter for the tbi. I need to measure where the throttle cable bracket will end up then order one to place it either in the front, middle, or rear.

RS-Chevy-SS

Nice that motor is going to run so much better than the LO3.

My L30 feels like I torque monster compared to the LO3. I can only imagine what the extra tq would do.

What headers you go with?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

To be honest I went with the ebay stainless shorties so I can use a flowtech y-pipe. Not as good as long tubes but I want the tuck and fit of shorties.

RS-Chevy-SS

EBay!? Lol how much were they? I don't blame you though, I think my headers and y pipe ran me $500

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

They are advertised as 1.5 primaries but a member here got them and they measured 1 5/8. They were advertised at 152.50 with the make an offer, I offered 140 and they countered 145 shipped so I bought them. They are a copy of the flowtech design so exact the their y-pipe will bolt on according to this thread here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...s-headers.html

I went out and took some measurements of my throttle body to cable bracket and it looks like a forward positioning adapter will be perfect. The RPM intake even has a provision for one of the bolts on the bracket so I would just have to fab a way to mount the other bolt for it.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

I've been meaning to ask this a number of times, in a number of threads...I still have so much to learn here.

When you add an aftermarket intake, plus an adapter...at that point, is all hope lost for using a factory air cleaner under a factory hood? Not that that was the plan here...just curious how much height these 2 items add.

And thanks for the pictures of the dimpled china wall. I had seen the china wall term, but wasn't sure what folks meant. Also, had never seen / heard of the dimpling trick. Seems like a good idea.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I did a lot of googling before looking for an intake. It seems from other people's experience that it will fit but you might have to trim the hood insulation and drop the air cleaner base. If it turns out to need a drop base I will try to install it into my OEM air cleaner, I do want a factory appearance. I don't think a circle cut out of the hood insulation would look too out of place either.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Thanks Spacebuy1980. I appreciate the info.

Sounds like we have similar thoughts on this. I too had thought that if I needed more room I would try to modify the base of the factory air cleaner.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Well I got my water pump installed and I am working on a bypass line for the thermostat. I have a 90* fitting to put in the intake that I think will work with a piece of formed hose I found at the parts store. Here is what I am up against:



With a 90* fitting on the intake I think a "L" shaped hose will work.

Thought I would do a run down on cost so far:
98 motor missing crank and piston: Free, traded for
Piston, ebay: 30
Crank and bearings, oil pan gasket, parts store: 253.45
Moates computer mods and prom burner: 175.46
Fuel injectors, motor mounts, fuel strainer, knock sensor, rockauto: 120.39
Fuel Pump for tpi, usb for data log amazon: 49.68
Valve spring compressor, amazon: 8.73
Spark plugs, amazon: 20.00
Intake gaskets, amazon: 25.53
Tbi adapter, amazon: 42.84
Harmonic balancer, amazon: 34.88
Brass 90* water elbow, amazon: 6.30
Performer RPM air gap intake, thirdgen.org classifieds: 150.00
Timing cover, ebay: 9.59
External fuel pressure regulator, ebay: 22.48
LT4 hot cam, summit: 219.97
Headers, ebay: 145.00
TBI injector spacer, ebay: 16.94
TBI rebuild kit, ebay: 26.99
Water pump and fitting, autozone: 40.40
Woodruff keys, O'reillys: 8.72
Valve spring kit, Alex's parts: 108.20
Timing Pointer, Jegs: 3.69
Various gaskets, Autozone: 14.48
Spray paint, Advance: 16.80
Molded Hose, Advance: 9.82

Total 1560.34 with lots of little things left out I am sure.

Still need:

Y-pipe, ebay: 136.95
Transmission rebuild, local: Approx 300.00
4.3 torque converter, parts store: 95.00
Time off from work: Priceless

I am sure there is more I have missed and more I will need but wow, what a run down.

RamIt

Do you really need a bypass with a heater core hooked up? I have a L31 in my Vega and don't have any issues with overheating without a bypass.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

At this point in the investment, whats the $20 to hook one up? I can see how it can eliminate the hot spots in the heads so it's a go.

RFmaster

On the bypass hose...

If you are using 3/8" barb fittings for 3/8 ID hose (water pump is 1/2MNPT and intake 3/8MNPT) you'll have to trim one barb of 90 deg on the water pump side. Why? The 90 deg fitting will butt against the water pump housing - just use hack saw to take one barb off. If you are using 3/8" barb fittings then source Dayco Molded Heater Hose part# 87000 to connect the two water ports together. It has 90 deg bend, trim length to suit and costs around $7.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I will put the 90 in the intake, I think it will route cleaner. I have a piece of molded hose already in a "?" shape that gives me a variety of bends that I can make work. Thanks for the tip on trimming the barbs, I can see that coming into play.

For fuel lines I think I want to use push-lok for the clean factory look. Any advice on what fittings I will need? I will be using an external fpr.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Quick question, I have a spare distributor from a TBI motor that I am unsure of the origin of it. Were all TBI motors roller cam? If so I can drop it in now and have the motor close to time.

RFmaster

'1980
I like to bend my own hardlines (that's just me) as this results in near factory look with minimum use of rubber fuel lines:

Supply
Dorman 800-157 16mm Fitting
Fuel Line Diameter: 3/8 in.
Fuel Line Length (in): 30 in.

Return
Dorman 800-156 14mm FITTING.
Fuel Line Diameter: 5/16 IN.
Fuel Line Length (in): 30 in.

Both are available from RockAuto for around $5.50 each.

Alternatively you can always use 16mm to -6AN and 14mm to -6AN adapters and then use braided Stainless Steel hose with whatever bend hose end that is required to clear the intake. If you are using carb to TBI adapter there is always an issue with fuel lines clearing in the back. Just try to mock up your fuel lines while engine is sitting on the engine stand.... Just heads up.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Thanks RF, that might just be what I do. My fpr has I think 1/4 npt threads so it will have to go into and out of it as well.

RFmaster

That's a good question! Rebuilders information shows that the same dizzy can be used in both cars and trucks:
A-1 CARDONE Part # 301830.
OE # 1103749, 1103827, 1103838, 1103880, 1103952, 1104048

Truck Dizzy LO3/LO5
#1103749,
Gear 10495062

Car Dizzy
1103827
Gear 10469459

If you are worried just replace gear with SMP Part # DG25 {#10469459, 10495062, 456652} which can be used in cars and truck LO3/LO5 or in your case L31 with OE cam.

RFmaster

Which FPR do you have ??? IMHO most FPR are setup for 3/8 NPT.

//RF

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

It probably is 3/8 npt, I'm bad at pipe thread. It is a ebay vacuum referenced fpr. Thanks for the help!

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

That was a great idea on the distributor, looking up parts store info! I went ahead and dropped in the one I have, this should get me close to firing:

RS-Chevy-SS

RF if I may but in, I recall there being an issue with the fittings you gave me for the bypass. I had to use a brass bushing on the WP side to install the bushing. IIRC the sizes are a little off but I could be mistake.

Looking good 1980 when you throwing it in?

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, I will have a week off at the end of next month. That is my target to get it done.

RFmaster

RS

IRC we used 1/2" hose in your install, but 3/8" hose will work just as fine. In fact 3/8" line is easier to work with. Things we learn along the way.... OK - it is late time to shutdown.....

//RF

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

x2.....BYPASS IS POINTLESS with the factory heater core setup....Just put two pipe plugs in and eliminate the need for an additional future leak point.

RS-Chevy-SS

Is it not beneficial at all? Can't hurt right? I did mine, for about 15 minutes time and RF spent about $12 I think on parts.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

I got the headers today, they look great, thickest flanges I have ever seen. The spark plug on cylinder three is stupid close but all of the other ones have more than enough room. I think I will double the gasket on the drivers side and ding the tube for clearance. They are definitely 1.5 primaries measured with my calipers.

RS-Chevy-SS

Pictures or it didn't happen.