Gibson

woul a 305 with AFR l98 195 CC 100% cnc cut heads, crane cams energizer 1.6 3/8"stud aluminum rockers, be cool direct fit aluminum radiator, a set of headers, and a wieand team g 7800-7200 rpm 4 barrel intake manafold with a custom 2-4 spacer adpter put me on my way to a high reving streetable road race style small block? what cam would yinz recomend for that combo.

Gibson

what, no body has any opinion on it?

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Well, you said drifting, so some folks may not be interested.

Sadly, I don't know enough about engines to help you really. I do know good breathing (valve train) is most of what revs come from. However, the bottom end is gonna need to be solid too. But then there's also this problem. A high revving small bore is not always too street-able. It's livable, but as my dad says, one car for the week/street, one for the weekend/track. He used drive a 302 z28. It was okay, but could be annoying in stop and go traffic, so he says.

But from what I can see, if you're gonna drift with that set-up, it should be pretty cool. My 305 TPI seems good, but more power would be nice.

crytical point

I had a 85 Rx7 that didn't hit power till about 3k and rode hard to 11k and with the 4.11 posi rear that thing could drift all day. Now as for the street I loved that car and it drove nice and could hold its own against mustangs and Fbodys with its little 1.1L rotary and it good power to weight ratio. Couldn't do much off the line but once you got about 3k it would snap your neck and burn out going into every gear. High reving engines are ok once you get use to driving them and city driving shouldn't be a problem once you get use to shift points and the understanding that it has no power at the lowend.

As for the 305 you should get the best flowing heads and exhaust and intake because your gonna need it to keep it from falling on its face past 5500. But you could compensate for the high reving abillity of the engine by learning how to drift with out clutch kicking or hard downshifts. Your best bet is to go with a carbed 350 with some work to get it good to 6500 and hit your brakes right before a turn, pitch the wheels to throw out the rear, and once you hit the apex just floor it and feather the gas to maintain control.

yetterben

As a rotary mechanic and and a rotary re builder a 12a could never rev to 11k with out major mods to the keg. keep You false rotary statements to yourself please.

If you doubt my rotary knowledge come on over to rx7club.com and check out my 3rd gen and my 1st gen custom blowthrough 12a.

crytical point

Wow it shows and I will graciously stroke you epeen that followed you from rx7club.com and before you nerd rage on me have you ever heard of RPM racing? If not then maybe you should because that man has a first gen what will rev that high. AND before you start blowing up on me "you don't know what your saying im a mechanic" and other crap like that then let me tell you that I destroyed the apex seals several times and that engine was stock all of one month for the 3 years I had it and had several 12a's in it. And for you to tell me its "False" then you can stick your certification some where and blow it out your turbo because my tach didn't lie. And to tell me im false without a list of mods to the engine is just ignorant and of course you can't hit 11k without mods to the keg let alone the ignition system.

I did see you cars and nice work but im not attacking your mechanic abillity just your statement really reaked of egotistical ignorance and maybe you should cool down before you go being a d*ck .

yetterben

WAs not being a ****. 12a or 13b or 20b will not spin that high with out extensive work to the housings irons and rotors. The rotors will walk off the ecentric shaft way before then. LEt alone the thermal pellet in the ecenctric shaft will not allow enough oil flow to rotor bearings without extensive work. If you ran your 12a up to 11 grand please enlgihten me to what carb you used becasue it was not the stock nikki it was not even a holley 650 if you could supply fuel to it up high it would run like dog **** on the primaries. Sure was not a weber or delleroto either.

You also would not rev that high on stock ports. I would think if you did your own work or known you would be proud to state hey i reved up to 11 grand on a bridge port or hey i run a peripheral port motor. Which you could not drive on the street anyway. I have a pp motor here. I dont expect it to idle anylower than 3 grand.

To run that high you would need cleanrced rotars 3mm one piece apex seals ecentric shaft work done. r5 irons and many other things including at least a bridgeport. And at 11 grand i would expect the motor to last oh maybe 3 or 4 1/4 mile pulls.

I am not gonna say anything else about the subject. Sorry to hijack gibson

OH yeah I WORK AT MAZDA IN MY TOWN I AM THERE ONLY ROTARY TECH!!!! If yah still have a 7 let me know i will throw you a 20b together out of 13b parts and rx8 parts. Walk any 3rd gen in your town

No such thing as a 4:11 rear in a 7 either unless you swapped a 9 inch under it. Also there is no posi in a 7 unless you welded the diff like a dumb dumb. Lsd yes posi NO!!!! Burn out in every gear WOW thats one impressive 7 must have been way over the 250hp range. totally unachievable on a 12a without a pp and a huge fawking turbo.

Mrs.Crasher0083

Geeeeeeeeeeeeeesh!!!!!!!!!!!

studdmstr

I love turds like crytical point that get all flustered and can't write coherent posts when called out on made up stories and misinformation.

1MeanZ

iTrader: (9)

1. what size are the chambers on those heads? If they are bigger than 58ccs your compression will drop drastically. Also, what is the valve size? Anything larger than 1.94/1.50 is too large and will be shrouded by the small 305 bore. Some argue that even 1.94/1.50 is too large....

2. Due to the small bore, and small valves required as a result, a 305 is a very poor choice for a high rpm engine IMO. It just won't be able to breathe up there.

If you want high rpm power for an exteded time, build a 327, or 350.