snflupigus

So I decided to pull the tbi intake off and replace it with a performer and carb adapter since I thought I had a lifter ticking.

Then I found out the air injection tube into the cat was cracked on the top of it, so i concluded my lifter ticking was an exhaust leak there and just replaced the intake without replacing lifters. I welded up the cat's hole and removed air diverter valve and air hoses. the pump is still there.

When pulling the dist I made sure it was pointed straight at number one before replacing the intake. it dropped right back in perfectly but the car would not fire at all and was dumping gas into the intake so fast that it was pooling on top of the throttle blades.

i get a code 15 and 42. It is a brand new coolant temp sensor in the intake but is that the one that goes to the sensor or the ecm? I thought maybe i had remembered where the dist's rotor was pointing and found compression stroke top dead center verified by #1 being out and a handy whistling old spark plug as well as the line on the dampener is pointing straight up when the dist is now back in place pointing at #1 dead on at tdc.

The problem with this damn thing is that the dampener has 3 marks on it. and no timing cover timing teeth. There is a little wire rigged to be next to the dampener at 3oclock.

So i get the car started by opening the throttle plates to get it going then adjust the dist to get it to idle. guess what... still sounds like either a wicked exhaust leak at the header on number 8 cyl or a nasty lifter over there.

I do not having a timing gun so i couldnt verify timing but it idled fine for a few minutes but wont run now.

I did discharge the coil accidentally into my HAND once and accidentally tried to turn the motor over with the main lead from coil to dist off and it grounded to itself. again... that was all before i got it idling for a few minutes. still no normal running though.

I will try to make sure it is timed correctly tomorrow night but thought i would get input on what else people think it could be.

and what is this cts15 error all about? it reads fine with EBL.

Thanks

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

For the error 44, make sure the EST is plugged in. Have you tried hooking up your laptop to the ECM? What does it report the cool temp as being? With an error 15, the ECM will dump in LOTS of gas during cranking, causing the engine to flood. Try to fix that, or at least verify that the CTS is operational before trying to start it again.

As far as the sensors, the one that goes to the temp gauge is in the head. The one in the manifold goes to the ECM

snflupigus

this morning, with the old temp sensor plugged in and sitting on the manifold the motor fired right up and began to idle as stock with no codes.

I think I'll be taking back the new temp sensor. arg! - the old ones plastic connector is completely broken off and yet it works and the brand new one doesnt. The main problem is that I have a wicked ticking still on the passenger side. I would like to think it is an exhaust leak but I'm pretty sure it isnt. I'll pull the valve cover tonight and see if a lifter is collapsed - should have changed them all while the intake was off.

What else sounds like a noisy lifter or exhaust leak?

Also, how much am I going to need to adjust timing now that I do not have EGR? Anybody have a base table to throw me?

Brandon2350

I have found that if you disconnect the CTS wire to the manifold (this is the one the ecm reads) you will set a code 15. You should disconnect the battery to clear any codes. If not, it will be dumping lots of fuel at startup as dimented24x7 pointed out. (even if the CTS isn't faulty).

snflupigus

i cleared the code with the laptop and tunerpro (ebl)... the new cts works for a short while then the code sets.

still any ideas on the noise? gona go get a digi cam video right now for everyone so you can listen to it...

http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=16325286

snflupigus

are people able to see the vid when not logged into myspace?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

The video works, but the sound is difficult for me to determine its location.

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

How big is the cam and springs? It's hard to tell on the video but the sound is similar to how mine sounded after it started pulling stock rocker studs. Pull the valve cover and check to see if any rockers are loose, that's a quick thing to check before looking into a shot lifter.

90c350

[Its hard to tell but that sure sounds like an exhaust leak at the header to me. It doesnt sound ticky enough to be a lifter or valve. Once again its hard to tell over the internet. But for the cost of a set of header gaskets I would replace them and check to see if you could see where it may be leaking. How does it run otherwise??? If you had a lifter tike that badly I would think that you would be down on some power and beable to notice it. Just my 2bits



quote=snflupigus;3439089]i cleared the code with the laptop and tunerpro (ebl)... the new cts works for a short while then the code sets.

still any ideas on the noise? gona go get a digi cam video right now for everyone so you can listen to it...

http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=16325286[/quote]

snflupigus

got another vid... took off the valve cover. cant see any thing wrong, none of the pushrods seem loose or look like they've got extra travel in them. I dont think this sounds like a lifter anymore.

it might be time... gasp! to take it to a shop.


video below.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=16686427

markymarco

iTrader: (10)

do you have chasis ears it would make it real easy discern where the noise is coming from or you could do the screw driver trick

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Watch the intake rocker on cylinder 2 and the exhaust rocker on cylinder 3. They both look like they are flopping around, side to side. Grab both rockers and try to rotate them front and back. They should be pretty tight, if they are loose, there is your problem. Still has an exhaust leak sound to me too. Check the EGR valve gasket.

snflupigus

there is no egr on this intake... and i will play with the rockers. I think as I listen more and more i hear it comming from the collector gasket.. it could be blown out from one of those lean backfires when tuning.
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and what are chassis ears and screwdriver trick?

blackblazer717

that sure sounds like a header gasket. i dont think it is a lifter or a rocker adjustment. that is definantly a header gasket.
you should get the blowout proof ones from percys performance. they are sick
LUKE

snflupigus

it was the header gasket.... turns out some of the bolts were finger tight. they were the locking spreader bolts too! Replaced the passenger side metal thick header gasket with a 20 bucks for both sides header gasket from checker auto parts. The metal gasket had pretty much desintigrated at the rear. I also got some safety wire-able header bolts that have wire connecting each pair of bolts that will not allow them to turn loose. theoretically. all quite but the exhaust now

o, and as for the temp sensor. The previous one had the plastic broken off of it so it only had the prongs exposed. I guess because the plug was able to move so much that the inner plugs contact points were loose on the new plug and it was not connecting. I used a pick to spring out the contacts in the harness plug and connected it to the sensor... everything works now just fine. The car is timed as accurately as I could manage with no pointer at 0 degrees - or as i understand it to be anyway. The factory timing groove is timed to straight up.