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My watts Link Video is up. A very interesting suspension part.
kind of annoying to install and expensive.
but overall an improvement over a lowered pan-hard bar setup.
Video:
I didn't think it was terribly difficult to install. The instructions that come with it are pretty clear and emphasize the important areas. I love how it made my car handle. If it weren't so expensive, I'd put one on my other car as well.
Since you have one too what is you opinion of the ride quality going from a Panhard Rod to a this Watts Link rear suspension?
Mine is installed on my daily driver, and I love it. It's not going to revolutionize your ride, but it will help on uneven roads quite a bit. The best example that I tell people is that when you go through an intersection and the roads aren't even, the stock rear suspension will tend to kind of kick the rear of the car up a little (if that makes sense). With the Fays2, the rear suspension just rolls with the road. The opposite side of the car doesn't react like it does with the panhard rod.
I'd like to get one for my other car as well, but that price point makes it a little difficult at the moment. But maybe one day.
Alignments depend on what you do and what tires you run.
since we have Mc-Struts you need crazy amounts of static camber to cope with the non existent camber curve.
I've run -1.0, -2.0, -3.5 & -4.0 camber on my 3rd gen. really depends on what your build needs.
you'd run about 0.1 degrees of toe IN for a street car.
ZERO toe for track use on courses with long straights.
0.1 deg toe-OUT for a track with a bunch of medium or slow speed corners or autocross
castor past +6.0 is mostly driver feel and preference. (or tire rubbing)
Alignments depend on what you do and what tires you run.
since we have Mc-Struts you need crazy amounts of static camber to cope with the non existent camber curve.
I've run -1.0, -2.0, -3.5 & -4.0 camber on my 3rd gen. really depends on what your build needs.
you'd run about 0.1 degrees of toe IN for a street car.
ZERO toe for track use on courses with long straights.
0.1 deg toe-OUT for a track with a bunch of medium or slow speed corners or autocross
castor past +6.0 is mostly driver feel and preference. (or tire rubbing)
to get that much camber are you also using camber adj bolts on the strut to knuckle interface?
on the caster did you modify the strut tower to avoid the shock hitting the top of it versus factory opening?
it is too bad the factory design is quite challenging with the front suspension and steering
You should be able to get +6 castor if you use solid strut mounts.
also assuming you aren't running stock strut dust covers or the giant 80s o Bilstein struts.
As far as camber goes, it depends.
My solid mounts are maxed out, but I also don't have a power brake system getting in the way.
I stated the season at -3.0 and ended up with way more than that 6 months later.
Idk how that happened.
& Obviously the lower the ride height, the more camber you get. Even with the Strut suspension
Again, really depends on your car.
My 200tw tires are notorious for needing lots of camber.
Other tires are different
thanks... yes the power brake master cylinder really causes a limit
i am using koni struts without dust covers... i am running about 5 deg caster but noticed it seems pretty close on the caster/camber plate opening... of course the set up of everything will matter, i am using UMI k-member and a arms vs stock
You should be able to get +6.0 caster.
even the stock mounts are capable of +4.5.
I'D guess and say my strut shafts are probably 3/4 of an inch away from the edge of the strut tower opening.
As long as it don't touch.
10-07-2023, 03:13 PM
