JohnnyZee78

Dear all,

Can anyone kindly advise what spring compressors to use on a 1992 Firebird (305 ci, T-Top car, with air con assembly).

One of the front coil springs had snapped and I have now two new to go in. I don’t know much of this stuff and seeking a friend’s help, who would be doing the whole job. He has asked me to also source spring compressors (so that the springs could be installed properly).



Thanks,

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You can "rent" one from the local parts stores. Almost any will do.

Works best to clamp the control arm with it as well as the spring, letting the lead screw go through the shock absorber hole in the CA that our cars don't use. Tighten it up until it's free of the top of the spring pocket, put a chain around it, and remove the CA bolts. Put it back the same way: tighten it up a little on both the CA and the new spring, put the chain around it, tighten some more, tighten up the chain, etc. until it's compressed enough to go in; put the bolts back in, take out the chain, let out the compressor. There are 2 "drain" holes in the pocket in the CA; install the new spring so that it covers one of them but leaves the other open (end of the spring between the 2 holes).

USE A CHAIN. If the compressor breaks or slips with the spring under compression, the spring can fly out with enough force to literally brain you on the spot. BE SAFE. You can BE KILLED if you are careless.

EDGE

The two times I had my fronts done they split the control arm, and slid the spring in, then used a muffler stand to basically lower the car on to, so it would compress enough to be able to bolt the control arm back together. That front spring is a grenade. I would not dare try a spring compressor on it unless it's an extremally high-end one. Not some harbor freight job. The rear is a different story. Quite easy. But I'd get a shop to deal with those front ones. Last thing you want is your nose on the back of your head.

JohnnyZee78

Thanks !! This is awesome !

JohnnyZee78

Thank you so much ! This is very helpful!

BovineZro

iTrader: (11)

I have done this job once with a hook-style spring compressor, when I was younger (and dumber). Never again.

As sofa mentioned, if that compressor lets go the spring will very easily propel chunks of metal into/through you. I've seen the hole through insulation and corrugated sheet metal in a buddy's shop where a hook-style compressor failed and the spring shot a chunk of the compressor through the wall. I prefer to use the OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor (they sell them on Amazon: ) and a length of good quality chain as a safety measure.

Not a cheap tool, but then again medical/funeral bills aren't cheap either.

firefox7518

The OTC ones will work but I like the telescopic ones more.

I use Mercedes spring compressors. They are small enough to actually bring up in the middle of the A-Arm and their plates fit the Firebirds springs perfectly. They are plenty strong and easy to operate.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DURTyv41P4NCkEJc7

Here a vid of me manhandling the stock spring out of it to proof my colleague it is safe and robust, haha https://www.dropbox.com/s/q8m62wuh23...18655.mp4?dl=0


Here shown how you can insert them from below:

How to insert them from below. Holw in A-Arm

Inserted view

With that tool it is safe and also pretty fast to install/deinstall a spring. If you know how to wrench it's 20mins per side with deinstall and reinstall of the spring and shock. The jack was only there for safety as an insurance and to install the new spring as it is a little heavy to push up the A-Arm with the spring and then try to allocate the spring correctly ;-)

They seem to be overpriced for you guys but my safety and ease of usage was worth it. I also have to change the springs every 2 years in the past because of our 2-yearly inspection and having springs without certification if they are allowed and tested on the car means you do not pass or even worse they impound your car. Swiss Laws are annoying. Eibach however stepped up the game and now provides this certification even for US Cars here in Switzerland so they can be legally entered into to the cars papers. :-) So for me they were essential to make it easy.

The kit looks like this: https://de.vidaxl.ch/e/federspanner-...475843245.html

BovineZro

iTrader: (11)

Huh, I've never seen the telescopic style before, that's pretty slick!

Of course that's the problem with buying an expensive spring compressor, I'm never going to need to buy another one. But, if I was in the market, I'd give the Mercedes compressor a try.

DaveyDug

iTrader: (3)

I followed this write up when I did mine. Worked great.

Linky

JohnnyZee78

Thanks for all the awesome help and advice guys ! Greatly appreciated.

We (mainly my friends who are 67-68 Mustang specialists and do not come across later model Chevys) finally managed to slide in one of the springs (the snapped one now out). It was a b _ _ _ h of a job :-)……

Some potential issues, on which I will request further advice pls:

1. We only replaced one spring (driver side), and due to complexity and the difficulty, didn’t touch the other one. Is that ok ? The new spring we installed had 9 coils, the one that came out had 8 coils, however they both appeared to be same length.

2. The original spring had a robber bushing (ring) at the top of the spring. Because the guys could not get the top of the new spring fit exactly on the body socket, they decided to do away with the rubber ring / bush at the top. I am not sure if that would make a difference to the ride or will make squeaking sounds while driving or on bumps ? Is that ok ?

3. I am also afraid that since we did not change the other spring, the car might sit at an angle (lifted from one end and lower at the other). If that happens, what do I do ?

sorry for the long message …

@firefox7518 @BovineZro and other members

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not really.

Not really. It'll work, but you'll end up with alot more road noise and vibration and whatnot being transmitted into the car.

Change the other one.

I don't know anything about "telescoping" spring compressors either; I'm not regularly in that business though so that's not surprising. I've usually used the type that looks like this. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...sor/555573_0_0 You can "rent" it for free. You'll find that the lead screw may be too long; if so, use a section of galvanized steel water pipe as a spacer, at the bottom. Put the flat piece below the control arm; compress the spring & arm together; undo the 2 control arm bolts; remove spring & arm; put a piece of chain around the spring ONLY and release the compressor; compress the new spring and the CA together to the same length as the old one was to get it out; put the CA back into the car with the spring in its proper location; release the compressor. Then go back and do the same thing on the other side to put the rubber isolator back in. Note that there are 2 little holes in the spring pocket in the CA: the bottom end of the spring needs to be located between them.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to include: you'll have to take out the sway bar end links, but it's even eeeezyer to just remove the whole bar and get it out of the way (consider replacing all its rubber parts while it's apart); and, you'll have to pop the ball joint apart, which is easiest if you just back the nut off several threads after compressing the spring, and use a ball joint separator aka "pickle fork" which can also be "rented" for free.

sbrown

I purchased a set of Vogtland 1.2" drop springs. I'm having a bitch of a time in the front so far. Everything came apart easily, not so much on the reassembly. The new springs are longer than the worn out stock units. I definitely feel like I am going to die with these springs compressed trying to maneuver them into their proper home. It seems as though I have to compress them more than I am comfortable doing. I know eventually I will get it. I didn't unbolt the control arm, I undid the strut instead. What a pain!!!

vinny R

Check the PN on those Vogtland springs. The 4th gen springs are a little longer and you may have gotten those.

vinny R

Sofa explained it well on how to do this but I do understand that we all don't have the means or knowledge to pull it off properly and safely. IMHO I think you should get a new set of isolators, (the rubber bushing), and your other new spring and take it to a shop and have it done properly. Springs should be clocked properly, isolated and both should be changed so the same spring rate is on both wheels.

I helped my neighbor replace the front spring on his 73 Mustang. It took a 1/2 day and scared the crap out of me on how much we had to compress the spring. the new spring was noticeably stiffer than the original we took out. We used a hook style he got from Autozone that we had to cut a pipe spacer, 3 of them, to offset the long center bolt of the compressor. It was a PITA! We did get it right, finally, and when we set the car down it was higher on that side.
We looked at each other and had the same thought...he grabbed the phone called the mechanic and dropped off the car to have the other side replaced.

sbrown

I didn't know that. Thank you

sbrown

The springs (part number 959212) are the correct part number for my 87 Firebird

Just a 305

I recently did the spring job. It is a pain, to say the least. I also felt like I was going to die. I was as careful as could be maneuvering the springs out of and into place. I used a spring compressor from Advance Auto seen here:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ctedStore=6811

The one posted from Autozone didn't work for me and I felt that it was more dangerous. Returned it and rented the Advance Auto one. I also had to use the pipe (which I discovered via Youtube) after I initially bumped into the top of the spring perch with the tool.

I went with UMI 1" drop springs and Konis. The rear looks about perfect, but the front is sitting high. I have not driven it yet...I am hoping it magically settles in. If not, I may take it to a shop to have them remove the fronts and cut the coils because I dread doing it again.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Working with stock springs is nerve wrecking. Working with tall drag springs is downright terrifying. Never again.

Weight jacks require no spring compressor. They'll just fall out if you drop the A-arm. Need more room during install, then just spread the screw jack.