subframe connector questions
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Car: 91 z28
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subframe connector questions
Hey guys, been searching old posts with dead links and pics that are no longer there for awhile now. What would be the best subframe connectors for me to buy? The car is an 88 rs 5 speed I plan to eventually run a vortec 350 in with stock style 3" exhaust and shorties.
From what I have read, it sounds like it's a toss up between UMI, Spohn, Jegs, Global West, and Alston. I saw some people mention S&W, but haven't seen any pics of those. What's the deal with the Alston sfcs? Are people running those with other brands in place as well?
Also the Jegs... Is pn 64714 the ones people keep calling "The Jegsters?" In a thread I read awhile back it sounded like they had two different styles available, these were the only ones I saw listed on their site.
I don't want sfcs that hang way down off the bottom of the car and hit things, and I don't want any exhaust interference. I'm not really interested in spending time to make my own, as I already have a massive amount of work to do on this car. Interior is completely out and I would prefer to weld on the floor now. If anyone has pics of these brands on their car I'd appreciate it if you could post them up, and give me some input.
Thanks,
Cale
From what I have read, it sounds like it's a toss up between UMI, Spohn, Jegs, Global West, and Alston. I saw some people mention S&W, but haven't seen any pics of those. What's the deal with the Alston sfcs? Are people running those with other brands in place as well?
Also the Jegs... Is pn 64714 the ones people keep calling "The Jegsters?" In a thread I read awhile back it sounded like they had two different styles available, these were the only ones I saw listed on their site.
I don't want sfcs that hang way down off the bottom of the car and hit things, and I don't want any exhaust interference. I'm not really interested in spending time to make my own, as I already have a massive amount of work to do on this car. Interior is completely out and I would prefer to weld on the floor now. If anyone has pics of these brands on their car I'd appreciate it if you could post them up, and give me some input.
Thanks,
Cale
#2
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Re: subframe connector questions
Hey guys, been searching old posts with dead links and pics that are no longer there for awhile now. What would be the best subframe connectors for me to buy? The car is an 88 rs 5 speed I plan to eventually run a vortec 350 in with stock style 3" exhaust and shorties.
From what I have read, it sounds like it's a toss up between UMI, Spohn, Jegs, Global West, and Alston. I saw some people mention S&W, but haven't seen any pics of those. What's the deal with the Alston sfcs? Are people running those with other brands in place as well?
Also the Jegs... Is pn 64714 the ones people keep calling "The Jegsters?" In a thread I read awhile back it sounded like they had two different styles available, these were the only ones I saw listed on their site.
I don't want sfcs that hang way down off the bottom of the car and hit things, and I don't want any exhaust interference. I'm not really interested in spending time to make my own, as I already have a massive amount of work to do on this car. Interior is completely out and I would prefer to weld on the floor now. If anyone has pics of these brands on their car I'd appreciate it if you could post them up, and give me some input.
Thanks,
Cale
From what I have read, it sounds like it's a toss up between UMI, Spohn, Jegs, Global West, and Alston. I saw some people mention S&W, but haven't seen any pics of those. What's the deal with the Alston sfcs? Are people running those with other brands in place as well?
Also the Jegs... Is pn 64714 the ones people keep calling "The Jegsters?" In a thread I read awhile back it sounded like they had two different styles available, these were the only ones I saw listed on their site.
I don't want sfcs that hang way down off the bottom of the car and hit things, and I don't want any exhaust interference. I'm not really interested in spending time to make my own, as I already have a massive amount of work to do on this car. Interior is completely out and I would prefer to weld on the floor now. If anyone has pics of these brands on their car I'd appreciate it if you could post them up, and give me some input.
Thanks,
Cale
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
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Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: subframe connector questions
When the time comes I'm buying the UMI's.
Here's a link to them. Take a look at the photos at the bottom of the page.
= http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
Here's a link to them. Take a look at the photos at the bottom of the page.
= http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
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Car: 1988 Camaro
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Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: subframe connector questions
I'm really happy with my spohn SFC. I can't say about the exhaust clearance though as I'm running custom true duals.
The spohn units tuck up tight to the body, don't hang down really at all. With ground effects on my car, I can not see them from the side view at all.
The spohn units tuck up tight to the body, don't hang down really at all. With ground effects on my car, I can not see them from the side view at all.
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
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Axle/Gears: lt1 10 bolt 3.23
Re: subframe connector questions
Thanks for the responses. I was kind of leaning towards the UMI connectors initially. My only concern is the exhaust clearance. I plan to run 3" exhaust in the factory location. In the picture on the UMI site it looks like the pipe is close, and I am doubting it's 3" in diameter.
Can anyone with 3" exhaust chime in on this before I place my order? I'd appreciate it.
Can anyone with 3" exhaust chime in on this before I place my order? I'd appreciate it.
#9
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Re: subframe connector questions
I have the Alston's and I am happy with them. No issues.
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Car: 91 z28
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Re: subframe connector questions
Again...
Do the UMI subframe connectors clear a 3" y pipe okay? I'm ready to buy them, but my car is completely apart and I don't want any surprises later on.
Do the UMI subframe connectors clear a 3" y pipe okay? I'm ready to buy them, but my car is completely apart and I don't want any surprises later on.
#11
Re: subframe connector questions
There is rarely any problems with our sub frame connectors and 3" exhaust.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Re: subframe connector questions
There is rarely any problems with our sub frame connectors and 3" exhaust.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: lt1 10 bolt 3.23
Re: subframe connector questions
There is rarely any problems with our sub frame connectors and 3" exhaust.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=127
The right side brace as shown in the picture if you enlarge it can be optional if there would happen to be a clearance issue.
In a nut shell we haven't had any major issues as far as clearance with our SFC's.
Craig
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: subframe connector questions
UMI is pretty good with fitment.... But let me give you a little advise that I learnt a long time ago and it helped my stress levels a lot..
No aftermarket parts are going to fit perfect.
No bolt on part will ever just bolt right on.
If you understand this and buy each item knowing that, you will be less stressed out when something needs a tad of fab work to fit.
A member on another site that I'm on made a joke years ago... Something to the nature of...
"yes rest assured, those bolt on bolts will simply bolt on as long as you own a 6' tall 48" wide tool chest packed will tools, drills, drill press, grinders, cutting torch, mig welder, tig welder, plasma cutter, and a bridgeport mill"
No aftermarket parts are going to fit perfect.
No bolt on part will ever just bolt right on.
If you understand this and buy each item knowing that, you will be less stressed out when something needs a tad of fab work to fit.
A member on another site that I'm on made a joke years ago... Something to the nature of...
"yes rest assured, those bolt on bolts will simply bolt on as long as you own a 6' tall 48" wide tool chest packed will tools, drills, drill press, grinders, cutting torch, mig welder, tig welder, plasma cutter, and a bridgeport mill"
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Tidan (02-25-2020)
#15
Re: subframe connector questions
Thanks Craig, I figured 3" exhaust was common enough on these cars. Didn't mean to drag this out, I'm just really ocd anymore over proper fitment after all the issues I've had with aftermarket parts in general for my other car. I appreciate UMI's presence on the forum. Just ordered a black set of your subframe connectors now.
Not a problem answering any questions you guys have this is why we are here.
Sometimes problems do arise as far as fitment issues go.
We always try to work with the customer when this happens.
Most of the time a solution can be reached to make it fit proper if not we always stand behind our product and try to make every customer happy.
Craig
#16
Re: subframe connector questions
UMI is pretty good with fitment.... But let me give you a little advise that I learnt a long time ago and it helped my stress levels a lot..
No aftermarket parts are going to fit perfect.
No bolt on part will ever just bolt right on.
If you understand this and buy each item knowing that, you will be less stressed out when something needs a tad of fab work to fit.
A member on another site that I'm on made a joke years ago... Something to the nature of...
"yes rest assured, those bolt on bolts will simply bolt on as long as you own a 6' tall 48" wide tool chest packed will tools, drills, drill press, grinders, cutting torch, mig welder, tig welder, plasma cutter, and a bridgeport mill"
No aftermarket parts are going to fit perfect.
No bolt on part will ever just bolt right on.
If you understand this and buy each item knowing that, you will be less stressed out when something needs a tad of fab work to fit.
A member on another site that I'm on made a joke years ago... Something to the nature of...
"yes rest assured, those bolt on bolts will simply bolt on as long as you own a 6' tall 48" wide tool chest packed will tools, drills, drill press, grinders, cutting torch, mig welder, tig welder, plasma cutter, and a bridgeport mill"
You are exactly correct! Because of factory tolerances and design variances it sometimes becomes very difficult to manufacture direct bolts on products that fit every car.
We are constantly tweeking products to fit every application as problems arise.
Craig
#17
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Re: subframe connector questions
UMI should fit without difficulty if your car hasn't been hit or twisted. I have UMI connectors for my vert (yet to attach but have dry fitted them) and the passenger side front might be off a little but the vert has the factory outer connectors and that's what's causing the possible small issue. As for weld points, that easy: weld them everywhere and anywhere you can. Don't choose only to weld them at the front and rear, stitch weld them to the entire floor pan if/where it's close enough and you will increase the vehicles rigidity. If you stitch weld them and skip around several feet you shouldn't need to pull the carpet.
Last edited by Tibo; 11-22-2015 at 08:01 PM.
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#18
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
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Re: subframe connector questions
As for weld points, that easy: weld them everywhere and anywhere you can. Don't choose only to weld them at the front and rear, stitch weld them to the entire floor pan if/where it's close enough and you will increase the vehicles rigidity. If you stick weld them and skip around several feet you shouldn't need to pull the carpet.
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
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Re: subframe connector questions
Great photo of some subframe connectors (or at least appears to be )
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-car-lift.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-car-lift.html
#20
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Re: subframe connector questions
Thanks for the input on weld points. I am wanting to minimize weld points if I was wanting to install SFC at all. I hesitant as it is to install SFC, due to changing a factory car. I'm sure there are others around here that feel the same way. Any mods I ever do I want them to be reversible and all parts would be saved. I've owned the car since 1992 and never done anything to it, its been in storage since 93. The SFC are an modification I am considering because it could potentially extend the life of other parts of the car, i.e. dash, doors, ect......., making the trade-off worth it. But I would still want the option to remove them and having weld points all over the place would make this even more difficult. I have no intentions of racing the car, I have another car for that purpose. I just want to drive it, maybe with some spirited driving at times.
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: subframe connector questions
I bought UMI sfcs for my IROC to take the flex and twist out of the picture. Going to weld them every place I can.
#26
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Re: subframe connector questions
LB, Before any fitting or welding is done, you want the car sitting square and level. both forward and aft, and left to right. When connectors get welded in if the body is not level your welding in a permanent twist into the platform. I don't want all the weight of the car sitting on the tires ,nor do I want all the weight on four corners of the body and the suspension just hanging. ( like on a lift). I use an ordinary 4 foot carpenters level and work off the rocker panels and the bottoms of the door jams.
The only Austin I know is in TX. That's a pretty good commute to middle GA.!! Check around with drag racers and see if you can find a local chassis shop or individual.
The only Austin I know is in TX. That's a pretty good commute to middle GA.!! Check around with drag racers and see if you can find a local chassis shop or individual.
#27
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Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
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Re: subframe connector questions
hmmm, hadn't thought about all this. Would another way to make sure it is level is to rest the chassis of the car on a straight beams with wheels hanging free?
#30
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Re: subframe connector questions
I have the UMI 2400's. I bought them years ago intending to put them on. Now I have a 4th Gen rear end. Will they still bolt on and be a proper fit?
#32
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Re: subframe connector questions
I have the UMI ones for stock exhaust (forget the part #) welded in. Cost me about $250 at a local well regarded body shop to do them with the car on their frame rack to make sure car was square and level. Best money I have spent on the car. They tuck up under the car so nothing hangs down
#33
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Re: subframe connector questions
There are lots of variables involved. Is the welder certified? Are they removing carpet? Are they stitch welding them? Tig or mig? Big city or rural area? Just call around, tell them it's not an asap job so they can keep it 2-3 days and save you a little.
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Re: subframe connector questions
#35
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: subframe connector questions
This is a major reason why you (or any car person) should think about getting a mig welder.
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
#36
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Re: subframe connector questions
This is a major reason why you (or any car person) should think about getting a mig welder.
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
#37
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Re: subframe connector questions
This is a major reason why you (or any car person) should think about getting a mig welder.
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
You can get a new Hobart 140 amp mig welder for $500, rent your shielding gas bottle for $15 a mo. and pay $35 to have it filled with gas. You will have that welder for the next 20+ years and use it MANY times.
You can look around and find a good used one for $250-350.
Once you have a welder and practice with it you then can weld all kinds of things like SFC, LCA brackets, box your LCAs, roll bar, exhaust, etc
I'll definitely second that advice. I bought an Eastwood mig welder that had a three year full warranty and it has been great and was only $300 I believe. Not a single problem. Ahp offers the same welder for a near identical price. Only thing I would say differently is to buy a used tank from Craigslist. Some places will allow you to exchange a propane tank for a welding tank. But they are few.
#38
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: subframe connector questions
Cool deal, I truly belive that is the best route to go. I have been welding since I was a teenage, but it was with stick and flux core. So when I went to install my roll cage, NHRA says it much be mig or tig welded. My idea was to fit and tack all bars in place and call a pro out to mig them up. I called around and I think the cheapest I could find was like $650
At that point I said the heck with that and bought my holbart mig and welded up my cage. At that time I rented a 140 cf bottle from my welding supply shop. 6 mo. contract, $10 per mo. After that 6 mo. contract was up, I just bought the bottle out right from them.
Man I can't tell you how much I have used this welder and all what I have done with it. Having a good mig welder IMHO is a must have.
I have built a welding cart, steel work bench, 8' long car trailer ramps, fixed all kinds of broke tools, just last week I welded our mail box lid hinge back on where someone ripped the door off the box.
Welded in my SFC, LCA relocating brackets, exhaust on 5 of our own cars and atleast 10 for friends. My roll cage, built 2 go carts, and that is just scratching the surface of things I have done with this welder.
At that point I said the heck with that and bought my holbart mig and welded up my cage. At that time I rented a 140 cf bottle from my welding supply shop. 6 mo. contract, $10 per mo. After that 6 mo. contract was up, I just bought the bottle out right from them.
Man I can't tell you how much I have used this welder and all what I have done with it. Having a good mig welder IMHO is a must have.
I have built a welding cart, steel work bench, 8' long car trailer ramps, fixed all kinds of broke tools, just last week I welded our mail box lid hinge back on where someone ripped the door off the box.
Welded in my SFC, LCA relocating brackets, exhaust on 5 of our own cars and atleast 10 for friends. My roll cage, built 2 go carts, and that is just scratching the surface of things I have done with this welder.
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