Ground Control...where to buy?
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
Ground Control...where to buy?
So I have contacted GC 3 times with no response...Also have found sparktech sells them for $50 less ($413) but they are also having issues getting a hold of GC.
Apparently no-one wants my money
Anyone know of any other sites?
Jay
Apparently no-one wants my money
Anyone know of any other sites?
Jay
#3
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Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
There are several places online that sell them. Ground control 2505.01 is the part for our cars. Of course you probably dont get quite as much attention to detail in the spring rates, etc as you would from GC itself, but GC's shipping charges alone are ridiculous to the east coast, plus they're a good $100 more than the average online price for their parts from other retailers.
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
So far I have been in contact with sparktec which is really good on responding, they are waiting on GC to get to them.
Also just emailed Shox.com. They have a koni/GC combo for 1149, seeing if they have it all in stock and if any sales are coming up.
Also just emailed Shox.com. They have a koni/GC combo for 1149, seeing if they have it all in stock and if any sales are coming up.
#5
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
If GC won't take your $ why not build your own kit? Heres a list I saved years ago from someone on this board who did his own setup. I think I have pic's of it all here too.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/weightjacks/
You can get everything form a few places
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...y=weight+jacks
search summit racing for allstar weight jacks pieces
Heres a copy/paste of some info if from the ffrax site on stans homeade setup.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/weightjacks/
You can get everything form a few places
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...y=weight+jacks
search summit racing for allstar weight jacks pieces
Heres a copy/paste of some info if from the ffrax site on stans homeade setup.
name='StanIROCZ' date='Jun 8 2007, 01:01 AM' post='105512']
I'm just finishing up my DIY weight jacks. This is one of the many reasons why it is June and my car is still on jack stands.
I bought a bunch of parts from Stock Car products. Some of which I won't be using, so they are for sale if you want to take this on yourself.
4 - SCPSB57 Spring plate 5.5" steel (2 for sale)
2 - SCPSB18S Weight jack bolt 8" steel (for the rear) note, get 4" instead
2 - SCPSB16S Weight jack bolt 6" steel (for the front) note, get 4" instead
4 - 500TC815 Wedge Bolt, thrust bearing
8 - 500TWA815 thrust bearing washer
4 - SCPSB20 Nut wedge bolt
4 - SBB (I forgot to order this)
Total cost 147.48 + 10.23 shipping + the bolts that I forgot
you can see these parts at http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm
It is fairly easy to copy GC's front weight jacks.
The very top is a 4" schedule 40 pipe (4" ID, ~4.5 PD) that I sliced and then spread open to expand it to a 5" OD. Instead of pipe you could uses some 3/16" x 1.5 or 1.25 stock and bend it to form a circle. Hindsight being 20/20, thats what I'd do.
Below that is a 5" spring spacer that I got from Coleman Racing. I had to drill a hole in it for the 7/16 bolt.
Not shown, but between the weight jack bolt and the plate a thrust bearing will go. I got it from Stock Car Products but I don't see it listed on the website. The guy on the phone sold it too me. Go to the link in my sig and you will see a pic of this.
Below that the weight jack bolt. It is 1-1/8" IIRC. In the picture is a 8" which is way way too long. The guy told me to get this, so I did. I think 4" will be enough. The bottom of this bolt has a 1/2" square hole so you can turn it with a rachet and extension.
Below that is the wedge bolt nut SB20 from SCP which is welded to the spring seat Part No SB57. Most of the nut is hidden in the spring seat (you only see the top of it). I had to hole saw a 1.75" hole in the seat to get the nut to fit. They come with a 7/16 hole since they are designed to be used on the opposite end of the way the jack bolt installed.
The rears are a PITA. The first problem I noticed was that the spring seat didn't do a good job of keeping the rear springs from falling off the edge.
Then I started doing math and realized that there will be a height problem if I want to us high rate springs, like 200 - 300 lb/in. If you are going to lower your PHB, you can significatly increase your rear spring rate. Higher rate springs don't compress near as much (duh).
stock spring
14x107 lbs/in. Assume 600 lbs of weight on each spring and your spring height at ride height is ~8"
The shortest pig tale spring that I could find is 9"
9x200 lb/in spring = 6" at ride height. If the weight jacker is built like it is for the fronts it will take away about 1.5" of height, so the total spring height is 7.5" which only leaves .5" to lower the car
9x300 lb/in spring = 7" at ride height + 1.5 =8.5 total height. Now I'm actually .5" higher than stock! Not what I want!
So I'm somewhat determined to make this work. I decided to "stamp" the plates that you see in this picture because I thought it might be fun, or something(?). These plates started as a sheet of 1/8" steel. I drew 6.5" circles in the plate and then found some misc circular objects that were the proper size and put it in a big *** press and pushed. They ended up being wavy, but I straightened them out. Then I had to cut the OD again because they didn’t shrink as much as I thought they would in the press.
The top plate fits around the stock spring seat in the car perfectly. The second one holds the spring and they fit inside each other so I don't loose near as much height. I'm going to drill a 1.75" hole in the car to allow the nut and the bolt to go up through the floor. I will adjust the jack from the top.
The GC rear perches sit on the axle and are made of aluminum (I think), and don't take away much height as-is.
So are you thinking "that's a hell of a lot of work"? Your right, it was, and there really isn't any particular advantage to what I did over the GC kit.
My costs were about probably about $175 for the jacks and $212 for the springs, so about $387. GC sells you the kit for $459? How much is your time worth?
I'm just finishing up my DIY weight jacks. This is one of the many reasons why it is June and my car is still on jack stands.
I bought a bunch of parts from Stock Car products. Some of which I won't be using, so they are for sale if you want to take this on yourself.
4 - SCPSB57 Spring plate 5.5" steel (2 for sale)
2 - SCPSB18S Weight jack bolt 8" steel (for the rear) note, get 4" instead
2 - SCPSB16S Weight jack bolt 6" steel (for the front) note, get 4" instead
4 - 500TC815 Wedge Bolt, thrust bearing
8 - 500TWA815 thrust bearing washer
4 - SCPSB20 Nut wedge bolt
4 - SBB (I forgot to order this)
Total cost 147.48 + 10.23 shipping + the bolts that I forgot
you can see these parts at http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm
It is fairly easy to copy GC's front weight jacks.
The very top is a 4" schedule 40 pipe (4" ID, ~4.5 PD) that I sliced and then spread open to expand it to a 5" OD. Instead of pipe you could uses some 3/16" x 1.5 or 1.25 stock and bend it to form a circle. Hindsight being 20/20, thats what I'd do.
Below that is a 5" spring spacer that I got from Coleman Racing. I had to drill a hole in it for the 7/16 bolt.
Not shown, but between the weight jack bolt and the plate a thrust bearing will go. I got it from Stock Car Products but I don't see it listed on the website. The guy on the phone sold it too me. Go to the link in my sig and you will see a pic of this.
Below that the weight jack bolt. It is 1-1/8" IIRC. In the picture is a 8" which is way way too long. The guy told me to get this, so I did. I think 4" will be enough. The bottom of this bolt has a 1/2" square hole so you can turn it with a rachet and extension.
Below that is the wedge bolt nut SB20 from SCP which is welded to the spring seat Part No SB57. Most of the nut is hidden in the spring seat (you only see the top of it). I had to hole saw a 1.75" hole in the seat to get the nut to fit. They come with a 7/16 hole since they are designed to be used on the opposite end of the way the jack bolt installed.
The rears are a PITA. The first problem I noticed was that the spring seat didn't do a good job of keeping the rear springs from falling off the edge.
Then I started doing math and realized that there will be a height problem if I want to us high rate springs, like 200 - 300 lb/in. If you are going to lower your PHB, you can significatly increase your rear spring rate. Higher rate springs don't compress near as much (duh).
stock spring
14x107 lbs/in. Assume 600 lbs of weight on each spring and your spring height at ride height is ~8"
The shortest pig tale spring that I could find is 9"
9x200 lb/in spring = 6" at ride height. If the weight jacker is built like it is for the fronts it will take away about 1.5" of height, so the total spring height is 7.5" which only leaves .5" to lower the car
9x300 lb/in spring = 7" at ride height + 1.5 =8.5 total height. Now I'm actually .5" higher than stock! Not what I want!
So I'm somewhat determined to make this work. I decided to "stamp" the plates that you see in this picture because I thought it might be fun, or something(?). These plates started as a sheet of 1/8" steel. I drew 6.5" circles in the plate and then found some misc circular objects that were the proper size and put it in a big *** press and pushed. They ended up being wavy, but I straightened them out. Then I had to cut the OD again because they didn’t shrink as much as I thought they would in the press.
The top plate fits around the stock spring seat in the car perfectly. The second one holds the spring and they fit inside each other so I don't loose near as much height. I'm going to drill a 1.75" hole in the car to allow the nut and the bolt to go up through the floor. I will adjust the jack from the top.
The GC rear perches sit on the axle and are made of aluminum (I think), and don't take away much height as-is.
So are you thinking "that's a hell of a lot of work"? Your right, it was, and there really isn't any particular advantage to what I did over the GC kit.
My costs were about probably about $175 for the jacks and $212 for the springs, so about $387. GC sells you the kit for $459? How much is your time worth?
#6
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iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Windsor Ontario
Posts: 1,128
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
The savings of $50ish and no powder coat isnt worth it to me. i was actually planning on building it until I tried finding all the parts at one place. I'm in canada so its a pita for me to make multiple order's due to duty costs. Plus I was having a hard time finding the correct length springs.
Believe me im all about saving...currently finishing up building my TQ arm (trak pak style), Panhard relocation and already did the brackets for my C5 brakes. Need this damn suspension in so I can build the subframe connectors
Jay
Believe me im all about saving...currently finishing up building my TQ arm (trak pak style), Panhard relocation and already did the brackets for my C5 brakes. Need this damn suspension in so I can build the subframe connectors
Jay
#7
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
If GC won't take your $ why not build your own kit? Heres a list I saved years ago from someone on this board who did his own setup. I think I have pic's of it all here too.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/weightjacks/
You can get everything form a few places
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...y=weight+jacks
search summit racing for allstar weight jacks pieces
Heres a copy/paste of some info if from the ffrax site on stans homeade setup.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/weightjacks/
You can get everything form a few places
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...y=weight+jacks
search summit racing for allstar weight jacks pieces
Heres a copy/paste of some info if from the ffrax site on stans homeade setup.
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#8
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
The savings of $50ish and no powder coat isnt worth it to me. i was actually planning on building it until I tried finding all the parts at one place. I'm in canada so its a pita for me to make multiple order's due to duty costs. Plus I was having a hard time finding the correct length springs.
Believe me im all about saving...currently finishing up building my TQ arm (trak pak style), Panhard relocation and already did the brackets for my C5 brakes. Need this damn suspension in so I can build the subframe connectors
Jay
Believe me im all about saving...currently finishing up building my TQ arm (trak pak style), Panhard relocation and already did the brackets for my C5 brakes. Need this damn suspension in so I can build the subframe connectors
Jay
Im surprised spohn , bmr , etc don't make a kit also.
Ive posted that parts list in a few other weight jack threads. So its here now to for when others search for ground control , weight jacks , etc..
#9
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
Re: Ground Control...where to buy?
Just as a heads up. I decided to call GC. Picked up 2nd ring. Super nice and set me up with a 800/175 combo for $430 Shipped! Now to find some tokico's or Koni's on sale!
Jay
Jay
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