midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

I went to take my passenger side control arm off the other day, and when I went to remove the front adjuster it came apart. The bolt holding the threaded rod to the top plate backed out. I called Ground Control and got the specs for the replacement bolt and Loc Tited it in with red Loc Tite per their instruction.

I also noticed that the top plate is slightly concave toward where the threaded rod rests on the adjuster... I'm not sure, but I seem to remember it being perfectly flat when new. The welds look okay, the powdercoating is fine, and i didnt see cracks, but i just want to be safe. I emailed GC asking about this and attached some pictures but they have yet to reply. Until I know everything's kosher, the T/A will sit.

Has anyone else had any issues, especially after long term use with stiff springs?

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Pics...









I'd estimate that I've put 5,000 miles on the car since installation early this spring.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

wow, Deff. shouldn't be bowed like that. Can you weld? Id add some bracing to the under side. or an extra plate on the inside and weld it in also.

maybe a little extra like this one also
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...s/p1020277.jpg

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

It's crossed my mind and I'm considering doing something like that, unless I'm the only one that has had this problem, in which case I'll see if GC will exchange it under warranty. I know a lot of members have had theirs for longer than I have, so im curious as to how theirs have held up. I'm interested to see how this pans out...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

the thing is that GC's design won't work with a swivel like that.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

How stiff are your springs? How thick is the bottom plate on that cup (the bent surface)?

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

850's... Quite a bit stiffer than stock and the average off the shelf spring, but not nearly as stiff as what trackbird has run.
I put it back together since I don't have a place to leave it on jack stands so I don't have a definite measurement, but I'd peg it around 1/4", maybe a little less, but more than 1/8" for sure. There are washers on both the top and bottom, between the rod and the flat part of the plate and between the cupped part of the plate and the top bolt.

I think it would take a while for anything to break, if it even would, but the concept that something could and that this would pretty much render corner weighting useless for any decent period of time sucks. Sigh...

plum92_camaro

hey midnightfireWS6! If you recall you and i installed the same front suspensions this spring. anyway, sorry to hear your having issues. i haven't noticed any with mine but ill take a close look this weekend and let you know. I've put about the same amount of miles on plus several autoX's and one HPDE event. How tight/high did you end up setting yours at? i went low at 25 5/8" fender height. i remember us discussing how much preload on the springs it takes to get these cars at or near stock height and couldn't help but wonder if that played a part in what happened to your WJ. Also how often have you adjusted them since they've been in?

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!
I only had mine set around stock height for a few days before dropping it to about 26.5"... I ended up going to around 25.8" after another few weeks and have left them alone since. That raises a really good point, I could see where setting it near stock height would put a considerable amount of preload on the springs which would transfer through the rod to the base.

I wonder if those that had the shorter adjusters had issues as well.

I really hope it's not a major design issue and that Ground Control is quick and cool about fixing things. I've really loved these things otherwise.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have a measurement of the total length of the rod and the height of the cup? Has anyone tried to see what the adjustment range is of these things in ride height?

I was ready to order a set and GC said they wouldn't work with drop spindles and didn't want to discuss it any further. Sounds like it will do stock ride height, which I probably want to go slightly more than a 2" drop from that (the drop spindles should drop it about 2"...), so I don't see why that won't work.

Do they work with aftermarket K-member pockets?

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

I don't have an exact measurement, but I do have a size comparison with a standard 12 oz. Corona longneck.


I need to pull the driver's side one to make sure that the bolt didn't back out on that side, too, so I can get exact numbers then. I think that there is a possibility that the bolt backing out on the passenger side could've allowed the threaded rod to kind of jackhammer on the plate, which would provide a satisfactory explanation for the bending. If not, then it would either be from the tension required to put the car above stock height or from a manufacturing or design flaw.

Also, I'm pretty sure 87350IROC uses them with an aftermarket k-member. Not sure about drop spindles, but I don't see why it wouldn't work either, other than that you'd probably want to run 9.5" springs, opposed to the usual 8"ers. I know that you can get the car to or even above stock height with the 8"ers though... I'd hears that maxed out with 8" springs would only get to 26.5", but when I maxed my adjusters out it was probably at 28" or so. Not totally sure that didn't have anything to do with the top plate, the springs were smushed down pretty well at that height. (I cranked it down shortly after though)

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Also, found this on frrax...

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

This might be ball park for ya.









How to do it in a tubular a-arm


http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis.../p1020431j.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...p1020447bp.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...s/p1020448.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis.../p1020464l.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis.../p1020461q.jpg

plum92_camaro

midnightfirews6, sounds like your onto something there. i haven't been able to look at mine. i got to change the oil b4 i put it away for winter and thats when ill check mine. if it snows tonight i'm not sure when ill be able to get to it, but ill post if i find anything wrong with mine when i get to it.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The inside diameter of the adjuster is larger than than outside diameter of the spring locators on my Spohn K-member. You could weld a spacer to make up the different. I used a rubber spacer.

I see no reason why you couldn't use these with drop spindles. IMO 8" is to short even for OEM spindles as msot of the adjustment range just has the car sitting on the fenders. I would use the longest spring that still gets you down on the bump stops. I am switching from 8" spring to 9.5" and I'm sure I will have no issue getting it on the bump stops. Remember there is roughly 2.5" of adjustment range on the adjuster but the spring is inboard of the wheel so the actual ride height adjustment range is almost double.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The weight of the car and therefore the load on the spring and adjuster is the same no matter what height they are adjusted too. You are not loading the spring any further by lengthing the adjuster. It is really no different than putting a wood block under the spring to raise it up.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I have the swivel cup weight jack but same principal (w/drop spindle). I have 9.5" #850 and the adjustment is fine. When I turn the jack bolt all the way up, I can pull the spring out with just my hand. A taller spring always gives a better ride, but 11" spring would need a spring compressor and I'm fine with the 9.5"

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

What is the ID of a 9.5" springs (say from AFCO racing) that will fit GC weight jacks front and rear? AFCO sells front 5.5" ID for the fronts but for the rear they only sell 5x11 and 5.5x12 (but the 12" is too long for the rear if I want to drop the rear to about 26.5" height no?) Looking into buying these to install over the winter, among other things

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

The rears are pigtailed with the GC setup. I think the top diameter is 5.5". I run 9" 175 lb springs with the factory isolators. The adjusters are all the way down and I'd guess its around 26 to 26.5ish. I'd shoot for a 9 or 10 inch spring in the rear. If it's not low enough you can remove the isolators and if it's too low with the adjuster at full height you can try the thicker 4th gen isolators, I doubt that would be an issue, even with the softest 9 inchers though.

The fronts are 5.5" diameter. GC tends to sell 8" springs if you're running 750+ lb springs, but 9.5 inchers are probably a better choice.

I'm taking the driver's side apart tonight and checking to make sure that it hasn't come apart and that the top plate is still level. I'll report back. Hoping it is and that I can just get a new adjuster for the passenger side and be good to go, if it's messed up too I guess I'm going to the old tried-and-true cut Moog 5664 setup up front.

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

man that sucks tho... these weight jacks were supposed to be real good ones.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Bolt was a few turns out and I could turn it by hand. Top plate had slight concavity, not nearly as bad as the passenger side. Waiting for the Loc Tite to set in now. Not bad enough to be concerned for quite a while, but I am concerned about long term use and the passenger side (above pics) makes me just a little uncomfortable. Pics will follow once I get the thing back together. I'm calling Ground Control tomorrow.

plum92_camaro

I only questioned the frequency of adjustment cause of the bolt loosening. I was suspicious of the preload cause it takes a significant amount to get our cars to stock height with the 8" springs. To get our cars to stock height the springs are already compressed about 2" before the car is even on the ground. I don't know suspension as well as you but I know that will significantly increase the spring rate. Like your saying, it shouldn't be as much as the weight of the car will put on it though.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

And the pics...

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Just called GC... They said that it may be caused by the springs going into coil bind, but that the top plate is made of 1/4" steel so that while it may curve a little bit, it's pretty bulletproof.

I'm running their bump stops, strut mounted. Might consider getting some factory a-arm mount stockers from the junkyard and cutting them and eventually go to 9.5" springs in the front.

I feel a little better about it but I still wonder how they hold up after many years and how big a difference that would make on corner balancing...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I seem to remember someone having 10" tall springs... do you think something in that range, about 800# would work well with 2" drop spindles, or do I want more like 10.5-11"?

huh... I wonder how deep your top mount is compared to the GC setup... honestly I think I'm going to end up building my own, somewhere around the height of the GC setup. low long are your bolts? yours stick into your engine bay (I think if I remember right some of the other pics in this thread are your setup), do you have pics from further back of where yours come through the frame rail/how much they stick up? Do they get in the way of anything/can you reach them reasonably easily for adjustment?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

easily reached, the bolt is a 1" coarse thread

pass side

Driver's side

IMHO, these are very underrated and very cost effective. Welding upside down in the cup on my back was not fun. For those doing the LSx swaps and dropping the k-member, that would be the time to do it. And those with a lift, well... I'm jealous.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure if you will find the exact height you are looking for. I know 8" and 9.5" are common. In order to get the most use out of your adjuster, I would shoot for 10.5". That way you won't have the adjuster jacked up all the way just to get the car off the bumps stops. For instance, with my 8" springs and OEM spindles, the adjuster has to be pretty darn high to get off the bump stops. On the other hand, as pointed out, the longer the spring, the harder it will be to install. Remember as that 1" at the adjuster should be good for about 2" in actual ride height.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Damn thread got me a little worried, mine are around 10 years old, but i checked & i see no defelction on the upper piece.Bolt also seems tight & no slack while adjusting.I didnt remove them though, just squeezed my skinny fingers thru the spring/x-member, running 51172 eibachs.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Man I am really antsy to get a set of these and now Im paranoid. Anyone else want to chime in?

I know the rears can be done pretty easily with generic off the shelf parts from AFCO or the like, just a matter of determining the needed spring height. The fronts are a lot harder.

plum92_camaro

i would say to go with the 9.5" springs up front. the 8" springs (what i have) i think are a little short. the 8" springs adjusted all the way down the tires touch the fender liners and if you jack the car up like that the weight jacks will be loose in the kmember and can become unaligned. If i did it over I would get the 9.5" front springs. If you autoX/road race your car i think these are the best option available. Like anything on a race car, inspect regularly. they are a simple design and should be easy to repair should something happen.

MidnightfireWS6, sorry, i forgot to check mine when i changed the oil but before spring its all coming out anyway for my LS1/T56 swap.

Beater79TA

Took mine out over the weekend while swapping to a BMR K Member as part of the LS swap. Both sides show some indentation similar to the pictures in this thread. At least with the tubular member, I can check them a lot easier to see if it is getting worse after each track event.