kcaalarcon

im looking to get a new torque arm for my car and im trying to decide which would be best for my application. the car is more intended for road racing and autocross use. i was looking at the global west traclink but would that be too short and cause wheel hop under negative acceleration? i was also looking at spohns crossmember mounted torque arm. any help or knowledge on which one would be best would be great. or any other brand torque arms that would work well for rr or autox

Copperhead

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...&hl=torque+arm

Zed/28

iTrader: (7)

Link broken ? I get an error message.

kcaalarcon

the link just says theres an error

hotrodf1

I think many would argue the Unbalanced Engineering Decoupled Torque Arm is the best of both worlds, and very effective. Lots of winning cars out there using this piece from what I've seen.

Lots of anti-squat (short torque arm) for accel grip, and then it decouples to allow for a longer, lower IC point for better braking.

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/

hotrodf1

Some info on an install.
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...&hl=torque+arm

I thought UE had a third gen specific design now as well, but could be wrong. In any case, it can be made to work on the third gens.

kcaalarcon

from what ive heard the UE decoupled torque arm is probly the most effective torque arm out there but for now i was looking for somthing thats a little more bolt in installation. anyone know how much of a pain in a$$ they are to get them setup? the 4th gen kit is bolt in installation but could it be made to work for 3rd gens? ive seen one person do it but once again how hard is it?

Copperhead

From a guy that had one put on:

"The install was too difficult so I handed it off to a local racecar fabricator. He did all the welding and cutting while the car was on jackstands, which was probably more difficult than up on a hoist, which I would have done. It took him 3 days.

Yes, it transformed the race capability of the car. Only do this installation if you decide to race the car though. It shows its best abilities under max acceleration and max braking. I mean really max effort on a track, not occasional hard braking as in street use. There are other steetable TAs that won't smack the bottom of the car so hard and don't require a cage to absorb the heavy forces. Repeated heavy slamming of the floor pan would crack the floor if the striker pad wasn't solidly supported.

I really can out-brake most cars on most corners now, even the best drivers have given up trying to dive-bomb me and then I get on the throttle and plant the tires on acceleration so they can't pull me on exit unless they have way better power and fat tires."

UE does not make a 3rd gen version, AFAIK. I haven't really had the $$ left over from this build to put into a TA, but I imagine it will be on this winter's list. Then i will be referring to this post . . .

kcaalarcon

so realisticly i wont be doing a decoupled torque arm anytime soon, mostly because of difficult installation. and my car is going to be a street car for a while now but maybe once it becomes a designated rr car then ill get that setup. but until then any sugestions on a good torque arm? the traclink has a sliding frront mounts so its looks as if it wouldnt be as bad as other shorter torque arms for wheel hop during braking. and its not that short

paul_huryk

I have a tracklink here in the shop that i was originally going to put in my Camaro, then the GTA, then I decided to not do it.

The problem with the tracklink is the install - you must drill about 7 holes in the floor right where the fuel filter is on the framerail - I'm sure someone good can get it up in a 2 or 3 hour period, but I'm not into drilling holes into the floor like that. But I've heard they work great when setup correctly - much better for road racing than any of the stock replacement TQ arms.

They are not legal for many classes of racing, including CMC.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

IMHO, taking the TA off the tail stock is the best route to go.
I went with BMR trak pak - gives adj with pinion angle, too.

I flat spotted the exhaust just a tad, hammered a flat spot on the cross-member, used the cross-member to stabilize exhaust tube, and just to be sure ground the bolt head for DS clearance. I also made sure to use a little forward positioning on the cross-member bushing attach point.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Welding the cross-member to the SFC with supplied tabs does show just a little under the car, if that is a concern.

kcaalarcon

well as long as i can bolt it in i probly wont have a problem with it, i just dont have a welder. the bmr trak pak ta is also shorter then stock? how is it for more then just drag? and as i also mentioned before if i dont get the traclink ill probly go with spohns crossmember mounted arm, i deffinatly am going to get it off the tail of the tranny either way

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I think most the aftermarket TA's are designed with launch in mind. I did not want to re-engineer, so the decoupled and watts link were out. Felt BMR was best compromise - yes shorter,but longer than GW.
I decided on un-sprung weight and lower roll centers to concentrate on. I can't do everything and even if I had unlimited $$, there would still be compromises inherit to choices made. New Wheels will be the last phase.
If you get it off the tailstock and have pinion adjustment, you'll be doing fine, whatever your choice is.

plum92_camaro

my thoughts are, since the OP is running a 4.3L v6, I'm willing to bet its a lot like my LO3 and doesn't have enough power to need or benefit from a shorter torque arm to help with traction/acceleration. I believe the longer torque arm would be more beneficial IN THIS CASE for braking. I'm all for getting the TA of the tranny either way.

Am I on track here? I haven't decided on a TA for mine yet either. I favor the UE TA but the price has me looking for a second choice that will benefit me now and after I get some real power under the hood.

kcaalarcon

im actuly gonna be putting in an lt1 once i get the cast off my leg. so i will have some power, but as i said before my car is meant more for handling and braking, and i have brakes off of a 2011 cts-v so i have alot of braking power and i have fairly wide tires in the front and back