GreggymacZ28

I recently have swapped out my 305 engine for a 355. As soon as that happened i broke the trans(700r4) and went with the th350. I took my car to the track yesterday, and it ran the fastest of a 13.8 with a 60 foot of 1.95. I have huge drag radials on the back, that i used on my buick and would hook great. But for some reason couldnt get them to hook yesterday. I do not have a posi rearend so i understand that is a killer, but with the more changes i made to my timing i finally had a pretty good tune which shouldve gotten me around a 13.4, but i ended up with a 2.4 60 and it went 14.08. Ive read alot about how suspension can help with the traction youre getting, and i was wondering what i could buy that would help me in the "traction" area? I've never really gotten into suspension, let alone on these cars, so any ideas would help at this point, thanks!

Ron U.S.M.C.

This may not be the answer your looking for because it does not pertain to simple bolt on suspension up grades , and I'm no expert by any means and I'm sure someone will chime in that knows about racing/hooking. That being said I have a Eaton Posi. and it made a huge difference off the line. I may not race but find when the opportunity presents itself,and is in a safe location I will practice launching. Before my one wheel peal was fun if you liked spinning/burning rubber but changed to the Eaton Posi. with a 3.42 ratio. and the difference is night and day. At least for me and my little 5.0 .I can feel them spin for a minuet then grab and even the 5.0 with street tires shoves me back in the seat some. Yah I know,laugh,ha,ha. Its not the cheapest way to fix your problem but seems to be a important one. Eaton Posi and a gear ratio. change with your sticky tires is the way to go IMO. If it did that for me ,imagine what a difference it can make for you. Congratulations on the engine swap.I'm sure it really made a big difference.

GreggymacZ28

Thanks alot! And yeah the new engine has made a 2 second differential so im happy with that! Now as the eaton rear end that is where im headed. But as of right now, after the money spent for the motor, trans, and other things, i dont have the cash for that now. But thanks again! It's good to hear that the eaton worked for you as that is what i will hopefully have in due time.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

I am not a drag racer, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

One key to drag racing is weight transfer. If you are running on worn out stuff you are only hurting yourself. A cheap approach would be to get new bushings for the rear lower control arms and then take a sheet of steel and weld it to the open end of the lower control arm. Effectively, you are creating the aftermarket lower control arm by boxing it and putting in new bushings. If you are looking for something a little more "pretty" I would look into Founders Performance LCAs and LCA relocation brackets. Then look at your wheels in relation to your fenders. If one wheel sticks out further to the left or right than the other one, then you are going to need an adjustable panhard bar. That will help center your rearend. If your wheels look fine do the boxing, like the LCAs, and new bushings. Those two things would be inexpensive decent solutions to launching.

If you are good with welding you could look into subframe connectors, with these cars being a unibody design you need something to tie the front to the rear. Right now, when you launch, your car is twisting. With SFC you will get a much straighter launch, yes it will add weight, but it will be worth it in the end.

After that you will start getting into springs, shocks, struts, etc. and it adds up really fast. With the LCA, brackets, adj. PHB, and SFC, you are looking at $400-500 in parts (pulled that number off the top of my head you could get by cheaper by finding used parts). Installation of the PHB, LCA, and brackets is a cake walk. Good luck.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

nothing you do is going to make any difference until you get a working posi or locker in there.

The one exception being an airbag in the right rear coil that you pump up a few psi (12 or so)

All that tubular S*** only exists to make your wallet lighter. I cut a 1.54 60 foot on an almost completely stock suspension in my turbo buick. Only had lakewood drag shocks, no front swaybar, and airbags in the rear coils. The reason I bring this up is because the LCAS are the same on that car. The UCAs are basically a shortened version of the LCAs. Panhard bar isn't going to do squat either. Pay attention to geometry more than powdercoated metal. LCA brackets can come in very handy depending on how low your car is in the back. The angle changes the amount of anti squat you get and too much can be just as bad as too little. I wouldn't worry about the torque arm either until you start putting some real power down.