Frozer!!!

iTrader: (11)

I am planning out my suspension work for the off season and want to get everything right the first time. I am going to get some tight springs that will drop the car about 1 inch. Not sure which ones yet. So I have been reading about all the geometry changes and what else should be done when you lower the car. So I am going to get LCARB's, new LCA's and Pan hard bar. I was planning on buying the adjustable panhard bar to keep the rear centered and adjust if needed. Should I also get adjustable LCA's? Im not sure if they are needed or not due to the drop and use of LCARBs. Also if anyone can throw in their 2 cents about spring recommendations that would be great. The harder the better since this car doesnt see much street time. Thanks!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

the more adjustability the better, when you had your last wheel alignment what was the thrust angle on your alignment spec printout? Mine was off .2 degrees, after the adjustable lca, i'm at .02 degree of alignment, if we sneezed on the adjusters it would go -.02 so just locked them down. All my stuff is chro moly double QA1 rod ended on the rear. Definitely lets you know they're there over poly.

white91formula

iTrader: (4)

that is not true

if you have no idea what you are doing then there is no need for them, and they will only cause headaches with alignment issues and causing other things to wear out/break because of this.

most alignment shops do not have tech data for aligning the rear of these cars because they aren't adjustable, so you would have to find a specialty alignment shop that does customs to get something correct and that is going to cost big money... been there done that


what are you using the car for ? just daily driving/ street duty ? adjustable's aren't needed for this, if you were getting into some hardcore autox or racing then id say probably a good idea and get a good tune on it.

biggest thing when lowering is a adjustable torque arm to correct your pinion angle or you WILL have vibrations at higher speeds (60-65+). adjustable panhard bar is good to center the rear back under the car because as the car lowers the bar stays the same length and will push the rear end towards the drivers side.

id get poly ended lca's and call it a day, get a adjustable panhard tho to center it the rear under the car or your going to have binding issues and then things are going to break

rod ends make you feel everything in the car and CAN break, not saying they are going to, but for street duty they are not needed.

my .02

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

what alignment shop these days, can't do a 4 wheel alignment? I already specified which reading has to be taken into account, these cars typically aren't square from the factory, most never notice, if you push it you can. This isn't a two year old chassis, these cars are antiques now and have shifted around a bit.

cc 82Z-28

iTrader: (7)

My car is lowered nearly 2" front and 1 1/2" in rear and I have Lakewood LCA on the rear along with the Edelbrock adjustable panhard bar and I put the upper panhard bar from BMR so I had clearance for my 3" exhaust. My subframes are tied and use a strut tower brace, wonder bar and poly bushings in the front. I am going with the adjustable torque arm and I have already installed the LCA brackets to get the geometry back there and the torque arm will correct the pinion angle. I have the adjustable struts and watching for a set of tubular lower front control arms to finish off my upgrade to the suspnsion. The car thus far handles like it's on rails and is a blast to drive through the curvey roads.

Frozer!!!

iTrader: (11)

I want to build this up for an autocrossing car. Not hard core cause I am just getting into it now. It still sees street driving time, so should I not get the rod end LCAs?