Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
Hi,
I wanna overhaul my 1988 Iroc suspension. The car's handling is starting to fall below par and i have already decided to replace all the bushings with Polyurethane to tighten everything up. I also want to do shocks and spring all around. I have no idea what shock and what springs to use though. And i am also open to suggestion on whatever else you guys think is necessary to improve handling in the cheapest most efficient way that i possibly can.
The car is most stock with some minor upgrades that are as follow:
-Jet Hot Chip
-Under Drive Pulley
-Throttle Body Air Foil
-Full flow master cat back exhaust
-Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor
-B&M Mega Shifter
I plan on installing:
-Long tube headers (Also Open to Suggestion on which ones will give me the best bang for the buck)
-Cam (Open to suggestions as well, i really want that lopy idle)
-Full true dual exhaust (To help with the lop idle)
-Throttle Body
-B&M Stage 2 Shift Kit(Already purchased and going in soon =P)
-SUSPENSION
Thanks for all your help and suggestions
I wanna overhaul my 1988 Iroc suspension. The car's handling is starting to fall below par and i have already decided to replace all the bushings with Polyurethane to tighten everything up. I also want to do shocks and spring all around. I have no idea what shock and what springs to use though. And i am also open to suggestion on whatever else you guys think is necessary to improve handling in the cheapest most efficient way that i possibly can.
The car is most stock with some minor upgrades that are as follow:
-Jet Hot Chip
-Under Drive Pulley
-Throttle Body Air Foil
-Full flow master cat back exhaust
-Granatelli Mass Air Flow Sensor
-B&M Mega Shifter
I plan on installing:
-Long tube headers (Also Open to Suggestion on which ones will give me the best bang for the buck)
-Cam (Open to suggestions as well, i really want that lopy idle)
-Full true dual exhaust (To help with the lop idle)
-Throttle Body
-B&M Stage 2 Shift Kit(Already purchased and going in soon =P)
-SUSPENSION
Thanks for all your help and suggestions
#4
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
What do you mean the minor upgrades i have done or my plans for future upgrades, or suspension upgrades. And if it is the minor upgrades i have felt a major difference in the car with them so. Also i have searched through the forums and there is no topic that clearly explains what upgrades will give you the most results for the least amount of money
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Car: 1988 Camaro, 1986 S10, 2000 Harley
Engine: LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.75 9" ford trac loc
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
Take this as you may, but I had poly front & rear control arm bushings and didn't like them. I switched to Global West Del-A-Lum in the front and rod end links in the rear. I love the way it drives now. I also have the 1LE sway bars(36mm/24mm & WS6 springs) poly is OK on the sway bars. The rod ends are a little noiesy but its not too bad. Also I didn't see a torque converter on the list. Dean
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
Will the torque converter make a big diff? This is what i have planned for the motor:
LT4 Hot Cam http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...02586/10002/-1
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/60859/10002/-1
Proform 1.6 self aligning roller rockers http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66915C/10002/-1
What do ya think?
LT4 Hot Cam http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...02586/10002/-1
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/60859/10002/-1
Proform 1.6 self aligning roller rockers http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66915C/10002/-1
What do ya think?
#7
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Car: 1988 Flame Red Trans am GTA
Engine: Forged 355 4 Bolt, FIRST TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: ls1 torsen 3.42 gear
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
it sound like to me that your worry about engine performance more than suspension...... the above stuff u mentioned has very little to do with suspension..... i did engine and tranny first then suspension..... if i had to do it again i would have done suspension first to handle whatever you throw at the car....... but do poly everywhere and replace stamped steel parts with tubular and you will be good to go.....
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#8
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
it sound like to me that your worry about engine performance more than suspension...... the above stuff u mentioned has very little to do with suspension..... i did engine and tranny first then suspension..... if i had to do it again i would have done suspension first to handle whatever you throw at the car....... but do poly everywhere and replace stamped steel parts with tubular and you will be good to go.....
#9
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Suspension
If they've never been done to your knowledge, the best start is the basics. Tie rods ends & ball joints in the front make alot of difference. NAPA has nice beefy pieces about the same price as the big name stuff, but the advantage is that it's local (assuming you have a NAPA) so no shipping and hassle-free returns if you get the wrong part. They have 2 part numbers, pick the more expensive of the 2, that's the better part (you get what you pay for). Might want to look at centerlink and idler arm as well.
New sway bar bushings and end links help alot as well. End links are on the shelf at any Autozone if your looking for poly - they carry the Energy Suspension parts. Bar bushings you'll have to order - again I always recommend folks order from Advance or Autozone - no shipping fees, usually get next day, hassle-free return if they order you the wrong part. You just have to get a manager-type person to look the stuff up, or find it yourself online and take them the part numbers (not all the counter clerks are very good at special orders).
Shocks/Struts & springs personal preference I guess. I went Eibach Pro-Kit and Bilsteins, and I love them, but they aren't cheap. Again, local Autozone/Advance can order for you - I actually paid less for my Eibachs & Bilsteins than any online price, and no shipping by ordering through Autozone.
You can everything I've mentioned in the driveway in a day. If doing control arm bushings, more time - they are a bear, and might have to remove arm and take somewhere that has a press to remove/install.
Springs hints:
1) make sure isolators are set correctly on top of the springs, and tape them in place with electrical tape - keeps them from falling on reinstall.
2) Make sure to get a chunk of chain and run it through K member, through spring, and back to itself with a bolt through it to hold the spring - when it 'pops' out, the chain will keep it from coming out and taking your head off!
3) when removing front springs, look at how they are set in the bottom arm - there are 2 holes in the groove the spring sets in, the end of the spring should set inbetween the 2 holes, otherwise they will not be indexed correctly and you'll have a weird ride height.
New sway bar bushings and end links help alot as well. End links are on the shelf at any Autozone if your looking for poly - they carry the Energy Suspension parts. Bar bushings you'll have to order - again I always recommend folks order from Advance or Autozone - no shipping fees, usually get next day, hassle-free return if they order you the wrong part. You just have to get a manager-type person to look the stuff up, or find it yourself online and take them the part numbers (not all the counter clerks are very good at special orders).
Shocks/Struts & springs personal preference I guess. I went Eibach Pro-Kit and Bilsteins, and I love them, but they aren't cheap. Again, local Autozone/Advance can order for you - I actually paid less for my Eibachs & Bilsteins than any online price, and no shipping by ordering through Autozone.
You can everything I've mentioned in the driveway in a day. If doing control arm bushings, more time - they are a bear, and might have to remove arm and take somewhere that has a press to remove/install.
Springs hints:
1) make sure isolators are set correctly on top of the springs, and tape them in place with electrical tape - keeps them from falling on reinstall.
2) Make sure to get a chunk of chain and run it through K member, through spring, and back to itself with a bolt through it to hold the spring - when it 'pops' out, the chain will keep it from coming out and taking your head off!
3) when removing front springs, look at how they are set in the bottom arm - there are 2 holes in the groove the spring sets in, the end of the spring should set inbetween the 2 holes, otherwise they will not be indexed correctly and you'll have a weird ride height.
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