Timmie

ok I'm from belgium and I got an almost stock v6 camaro with 270000 miles on original dash and 20000km on the nordskog dash.
on some places on my suspension I have things that look like rubber bushings. ( yes its bad )
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...s-belgium.html

now after, an unfortunate/ not wanted drifting accident where I hit a sign crossing the road.
(just a big dent where the spare wheel normally is and some paint needed. car gets fixed tomorrow and I get it back on friday )


I think its finally time to put a good suspension underneath the car.
now before we start. like people can read in my topic there are things that arent allowed in Belgium, like changing swaybars or changing rubber bushing for poly and stuff not welding the chassis.

anyway, what does this actually mean.
simple everything has to look as stock as possible.
so black poly bushings are red bushings are a nono.
logo's are a nono
black and dirty looking parts are better then shiny red parts.
adjustable parts are a nono. it has to be sollid bold on piece.
may not require welding.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-B...-GM-F-Body.html

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-B...hrome-Moly.html

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-B...Wonder-Bar.html

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-B...-Total-Kit.html

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F3-chassis.htm

I chose the bmr SFC's because they are square, wich would look more stock then the round bars from spohn.


ofcours I still cant decide on the swaybars either, the spohn swaybars look big compared to other manufacturers.
on the other hand I like spohn more because of the black bushings.

so can you peeps help me out to what I all need to make my car look as stock as possible, but still make it handle decent instead of disastrous.


anyway can you peeps help me out. I wanna make a good order and do everything right from the first time.
I cant keep changing swaybar sizes and sell the ones I dont like. there arent enough camaro's/firebirds over here to trade or resell parts.
also everything i buy needs to come oversea so I would loose a lot of money if I dont buy the right part.


anyway, help me out here

1988-305-tbi

the factory swaybars are more than good enough, i would say run the eibach prokit with 36/24mm factory swaybars, SFC's, and Koni Shocks and you should be pretty happy, plus replace the control arm bushings with the black poly bushings, and keep the control arms stock, no one but you will ever know that the car is modified, except for the SFC, they will stick out , but are needed more than any other suspension part on the list

Timmie

I thought the eibach kit was only for V8 cars ?

do they exist in factory sizes ?
and how come that spohn only sells a 33/25 mm swaybar kit.
thought aftermarket bars where always bigger then the stock bars.
to bad I cant get a hand on factory bars or they would cost me a lot of money probably 700 euro's for a bar or something.

1988-305-tbi

the suspesnion is the same on v-8/v-6 cars only difference is weight. i ran the prokit in my v-8 car and the front is way to soft i had to run a small rear sway bar to compenate but beacuse the front of your car is much lighter the ssprings will be much stiffer and so you can run a larger rear swaybar to balance things out, you can find the factory sway bars for cheap on ebay, just gotta find somone that will ship to you, $20-100 plus shipping for a good set of used swaybars


i have the spohn sway bars the front was heavier than the original and didn't seem to make a difference where as the rear bar made a hudge difference but was much to stiff and liked to skip acrossed road imperfections, most people on here run factory swaybars, no need to go any stiffer


the v-8 prokit won'ty drop your car 1" do to the lack weight up front, wich is good for you becuase it looks like you have limitations on how low you can go,

Timmie

lol, I thought I had it all sorted out, now it looks like I would have made the suspension even worse with the spohn swaybars

UMI Sales

Hello
I noticed that you are looking into making your vehicle handle better! I would suggest looking into some new Lower Control Arms and a Adjustable pan hard bar. Due to like mentioned above a set of lowering springs would help as well. And I would look into a good set of shocks. And a set of SFC will eliminate all of the chassis flex. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...76kvsdblot8dg0

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

Timmie

yes, the problem with everything I need is, it needs to be as stock looking as possible ( so black bushings, no logo's, black parts, not painted to good. and else I need papers where it says that the installed part is suitable for my vehicle
91 camaro with vin xxxxxxx and can be used on it. ( signed by sombody working for UMI ) if possible with a TUV or EU logo.

Timmie

btw brad, wil the lower control arms do any good on a stock suspension v6 ?

Timmie

nobody else that has some great info for me on what to do best to make a V6 handle. I could really appreciate all the hlp on this subject there is or what worked for sombody else. the car doesnt have to be lowered, but if lowered what springs could I use best.
bilsteins or koni's

best swaybars for a v6 without having extremies that make my car only go straght or only let my back breakout in corners

UMI Sales

Hello
Well just think of it this way.....when you replace the lower control arms you are not only eliminating the stamped/flexible lower bars. You are also replacing the rubber (probably destroyed bushings) with grease able bushings. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

Tires.

The only place the car touches the road, so they're kinda important.

If you buy some parts you like, but they're red, couldn't you spray paint them black, throw some dirt on them and pass inspection?

Timmie

its easyer if the parts are already black. and it just helps ik the manufacturer doesnt stamp there logo into the part

tis would be a nono

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Here’s a list of modifications that are commonly done.
• Subframe connectors to tie in the front and rear, these cars do tend to flex quite a bit and is one of the best modifications you can do. They are welded in though. I prefer the UMI’s because of the way they connect to the rear LCA mount. Could you have this allowed as a structural component?
• Wonder bar – ties in the front sub frames. I would get a used stock GM one that will not raise questions. One less thing to worry about. Please note that with a V6, part of the bar will want to rub on the lower radiator hose. So you may want to grind it or take other precautions. It's actually more a structural component due to cracks showing up along the frame near the steering box. Should be around $10-$20.

The following I would look into trying to go aftermarket. I’m not sure if adjustables will stick out. But they will allow you to lower your car where non adjustables will limit your ride height. You could also swap them easily if need be if you keep the originals around.
• Lower control arms (rear)
• Lower control arm brackets (If you experience wheel hop or lower the car.)
• Panhard bar
• Torque arm -not that necessary for handling but is for lowering

You can improve handling by swapping out the standard springs and sway bars for the GM IROC/WS6 style if you’re on a budget but some aftermarket springs and sway bars might be a better upgrade. The first thing you need to do though is look underneath and see what you do have for suspension components.

Sway bars – Stock GM sway bars range in size with the largest being a hollow 36mm front and then the more common hollow 34mm. I would buy them as a set from a single car. Some people like to swap around but as you’re saying, you want it a less complicated one time deal. There are also thinner sway bars that are solid. The solid ones are said to be more responsive and of course a solid one weighs more but at the same time doesn’t need to be as thick to provide as much rigidity. Top of the line is the 36mm. Aftermarket sway bars are usually solid and not as thick as 36mm but are said to offer better performance. I have a BMR set, it's more substantial but I haven't installed it yet. For shipping you may want the 36mm due to weight differences.

IROC/WS6 Springs- These are much stiffer than stock having less coils spaced wider apart. Even if you go with aftermarket springs, you could easily paint them a similar color as stock and probably wouldn’t be noticed. You can also cut stock springs, but if not done right can really create problems with ride quality. Your case is unique for the V6 so getting an extra V6 spring pair and cutting it may be an option or even special ordering fronts may work for you as well. I've read that they're not that costly. Some people run softer spring so cutting the stock ones may be the way you would need to go.

I would go with something like 1” lowering springs and paint them if they look out of place. Then I’d strongly consider adjustables (Spohn/UMI/BMR etc.) in black and simply sand and paint them what the rest of the bottom components are. Lowering is important for improving performance and if you stick to non adjustables you will limit yourself in this way. The only alternative I see is having something custom made for what ever lengths you may need. If you cannot go this route then try to obtain springs, the IROC/WS6 sway bars, wonder bar, later model LCA’s (has center bracket and harder bushings) as some of the higher performance Thirdgens could pull something like a .92 G which is pretty respectable IMO.

Last thing you could also do is have the stock LCA’s, pan hard bar and torque arm boxed in (metal welded across the open portions). The best way I’ve seen this done involved a gradual transition at each end so that it didn’t provide a stress point on the LCA where the new metal attached. Was in a hurry writing this and some was copied from things I previously wrote but felt it gave a pretty good assessment for you situation.

The Spohn front end kit looks pretty good and it looks like a good price since the last time I checked. Don't know if they're still Moog, but if you buy something else I'd use Moog or Mcquay Norris. There has been talk of some of them subcontracting parts so what you end up with may not be what they used to be.

Then also Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's or Firestone Wide Ovals (Japan) at half the price. I have the Firestones and were rated the best street tire with wet weather handling included. In reality I like them a lot an recommend them, haven't pushed them in the rain though.

Edit: Guess I'm confused whether you have a V6 or V8 due to your other thread.

Timmie

my car is a v6 with an irocZ hood
problem with the v8 springs is I dont want to raise the front end.
again adjustable is a nono for parts, that would look suspicious since there aren't to many sportcars where you can adjust these things ( I only think top end exotics can do this )

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

For springs you might have to special order for the V6, but as I was saying some people run softer springs anyways. The mention of the IROC springs could help if you look into having a set of front springs made. Also, knowing the history of what was available in stock form may help you to come up with something that will work in your case.

You won't be able to lower your car much without adjustables unless you have something custom made.

Timmie

anybody got some info about the suspension technics springs for the V6
http://www.stsuspensions.com/springs.html

jensen73110

iTrader: (4)

^I've got those. Advertised 1 inch drop, but my old front springs were worn out so they actually raised the front. Took a while to settle, but I'm not impressed with the drop. I'll be getting sportlines next and cutting a coil if I need to.
Handling is nice, but I did shocks, struts and swaybars all in the same weekend, so I can't say how much just the springs helped handling....
Oh, and mine were purple (although the new ones are green?), so not exactly stock looking.

Guest

Buy the Eibach V8 prokit coil spring package and just cut a half coil off the front springs.

Buy Spohn's 34mm solid front bar/ Spohns 25mm solid rear bar (Yes I said 34/25 combo. Its a lighter weight V6, the V8's can't run that big of a rear bar with heavieer front weight lifting an inside rear tire.)

Koni Yellows

New strut mounts like J&M. These are adjustable BUT they will be allowed BECAUSE the alignment needs to be adjusted to safe specs for tire grip and wear. THis is a replacement wear item for suspension alignment.

You do not need LCA relocation brackets on a V6, save your money. A little rearward arch will help you in cornering. It promotes roll understeer. You will not have a wheelhop issue with Koni's and those spring rates on a V6.

Once you have done those, Ask me more later.

And yes, I will second the GOOD tires like the Goddyear GS-D3's---otherwise, mods are pointless.

Timmie

and what swaybars + shocks did you use and what was the feel afterwards.

Guest

Swaybars are a fine tunning device to coil spring rates and body roll weight. You don't pick swaybars first, you pick them to match the coil spring rates and body roll weight.

I had the best handling V6 f-body in (I will boast) the world on street tires and have backed that with perfomance #'s- Heck, So far the best period even with V8's. I pulled 1.07 g's on a skidpad on Firestone SZ50EP's 245/50-16's and 8" wide factory IROC wheels.

You can trust what I tell you in advice.

Guest

This is why I do not list my signiture on my page bottom like most people do here. It takes up way too much room.-

Taken from my old Cardomain page 7-

[What the Camaro is and consists of:
Started life as a Limited production '87 Calif Edition RS Camaro with a custom dealer paint scheme.
I have added-
*'87 IROC 16x8 rims that I had chromed- Rims then were balanced grind to ensure perfect balance before tires were ever fitted. Reducing the need for much balance weight when tires are mounted
*Multiple sets of high dollar performance tires-update 7/05,BFG KDW(cut a Goodyear GSD3, needed tires quickly. The KDW were readily availiable yet not 1st choice)
*Arp racing studs 1/2" x 2.970
*1/2" lugnuts - triple chromed
*'87 IROC 10-bolt with rear discs, 3.23's and posi (I'll get more into this later- It has been modified from this stock point)
*Various sets of stock front and rear 10.5" performance rotors and pads. Mainly Stillen brake rotors and pads were best by far in the 10.5" iron caliper catagory.
* finally after years of not keeping "reliable" (meaning long lasting without warping) brakes on the car I decided to upgrade them- Wilwood LS1 12.2x.810 4pot rears with internal drum parking brake assembly.
*All brake fasteners have been drilled and safetywired (rotors, brackets and calipers)
*Lokar custom fit steelbraided E-brake cables and clevis, stock parking lever adjuster removed and part of assembly altered
*Fronts are 6pot 13x1.25 Wilwood -Biggest anyone can get under a stock 16" iroc rim- Everything custom made and fitted from scratch. Spindles shaved for weight reduction
*GLobal West custom billet aluminum G-body front hubs
*Custom alum hubcentric wheel spacers to set proper scrub pattern with new front brake setup
*Earls braided brake lines-Custom Earls fronts with fttings on Wilwood setup
*Earls Solo-bleed fluid valves
*1LE prop valve (I have recently put a new booster on also in the past two years.)
*EBC green pads for quiet street use
*Bracing welded to A-arms
*ES Bushings in A-Arms and extended ball joint
*Suspension Spring Specialist 800lb front linear springs trimmed to ride height. Final rate aprox 810-820lbs from trimming to exact desired height
*rear Progressive rate springs 145-225lb max
*Koni shaft style progessive rate bumpstops that are setup to assist the rear spring rate even further progessively to help induce a certain disired amount of cornering squat
*Koni "yellow" sport struts & shocks on max setting front and 1click down from max on rears
*Custom billet aluminum HMS strut mounts with special Aurora HD racing bearings. Also had them polished.
*Fairly agressive alignment specs for being used on the street everyday. If I didn't occationally drive this car hard, the wifes daily driving would cause uneven tire wear.
*Eldebrock TPI 3pt strut tower brace
*Global West steering brace (Car already has a quick ratio 2.25 lock to lock steering box from factory)
*Custom welded upper rear steering box brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Custom welded trans tunnel/rear control are brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Baer bumpsteer alum adj rodended tierods sleeves
*Spohn 34mm solid chromemoly front swaybar
*HD front swaybar frame mounts so the bar does not pull out of the frame under hard cornering
*Front grill and airboxes modified to alter airflow patterns into the nose of the car
*BeCool Aluminum V8 radiator, dual core.
*BeCool dual fan kit (rated @ 700hp)Relays and temp switches for both fans. One hardwired to battery and probed into radiator bung for redondant backup. First fan wired as standard 1 fan system on factory wiring and A/C relay.I had the Becool aluminum fan mounts TIG welded to the radiator upper and lower supports
*BeCool Billet catchcan
*Stainless Steel solid 3' long upper and lower radiator flex hoses. Polished billet alum hose ends (not copper flex hoses that are chromed, these are 100% SS.)
*Dual highflow air filters
*A/C system completely updated to a "new" R-134 setup. Not the old R-12 compressor converted.
*Darrell Young Racing "completely custom" (Not off the shelf) 700r4 with everything internally gutted and upgraded new with all the latest and greatest. Heavy emphasis went into minimal drivetrain loss with internal componant choices. Built to handle 300hp raced reliably for years hopefully. Been great for almost 3yrs so far (7/05)
*Custom made V8 torque convertor fitted to V6 tranny (Tranny has V8 imput shaft)
*Autometer trans temp guage with electric sender unit 100*-250*
runs @ 185*, max on 98* day at the track is 210*
*B & M shifter gate plate (Prototype)
*ACPT carbon fiber 4lb driveshaft with Spicer u-joints. Spohn driveshaft loop cut back off at this point- No more concern about a high speed polevault with the brooming carbon fiber safety system
*rebuilt 10bolt rearend with new bearings, seals and kept the taller 3.23's in it. I like this ratio on the road better than the 3.42's. They have a broader power range through corners and higher top end without going into O.D.- Good for roadracing.
* Moser alloy axles with lightweight drilled flanges to reduce rotation weight
* "Roadrace" version Auburn Posi
*Aluminum diff cover with bearing cap preloads
*BMR bolt-on relocation brackets (I welded them into place) Why bolt-ons? They have a secondary support brace that the weld-on styles don't- strengthens the shock mount for a future coilover rear conversion. I was thinking ahead, but don't now think I'll ever bother doing it.
*Spohn chromemoly TQarm with solid trans mount crossmember with driveshaft loop. I also fitted the front solid mount with a larger HD Aurora rodend.(edit: cut loop off when installed carbon fiber driveshaft)
*ES poly trans mount
*25mm chromemoly Spohn rear swaybar with HD axle mounts.
*Spohn chromemoly adj LCA's with special HD Aurora rodends (34,000 load rating) also added- Radius arm swing shorteneds as much as possible to induce roll understeer when cornering /update:new 56,000 load rating QA1 rodends now fitted. part # HMR12HCPT ("T" is teflon lined)
*Tubular panhard rod (Future changes will be made here to add roll center adj provisions)
*Jegs panhard rod relocator. Lowered rear roll center.
*Spohn tubular suframe connectors. I installed myself and welded them along the subframe. Custom bent trianglar inboard braces and welded them to the floorboard also. 1) to gain catalytic convertor height for ground clearance. 2) Direct bracing design- stronger and ties into, not laying on top like original Spohn design. he doesn't do this for ease of install for the average person.
*The entire floorboad is cleaned and epoxy painted to help prevent corrision.
*PF&E custom stainless steel headers (One of a kind. Stainless retains heat and is much perfered for racing, and for life expectancy of headers)Headers are on. Used VW(type1) 1 1/2" port metal/composite performance exhasut manifold gaskets.
*PF&E custom stainless steel y-pipe.
*Headers & y-pipe are also ceramic coated
*Magnaflow 4" round high flow catalytic convertor. 2 1/2" in and out
*Magnaflow 4" round Bullet muffler straightpipe for catalytic convertor removal
*Catalytic & bullet sections both have StainlessSteel V-clamp Collars for quick change.For track use, can up the fuel pressure without the cat so I do not burn it up.
*Catback exhaust completely redone with 2 1/2" pipe. Tucked under floorboard as tight as possible (It doesn't hang down like over the counter exhuasts do).
*StainlessWorks custom made smooth muffler installed into I-pipe potition
*10" long Cherrybomb tubo style chamber muffler and crome resonator tailpipe tip (very little rear car exhaust weight compared to factory designs)
*'89 Vette in-tank fuelpump. Higher pressure and flow with metal internals. Stock pump has plastic internals.
*Holley adjustable fuel pressure reg. Stock psi at idle:38/wot 43psi. I run idle 45psi/wot 55 psi
*Autometer air/fuel ratio gauge
*Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge 0-100psi
*Autometer FP sender tapped into stock fuel rail intake block
*62mm EDP billet alum TB (discountinued- but I have a new one)
*Custom home made alum plenum (not on car yet)
*Polished intake runners to injectors. Polished stock plenum neck as much as possible and also blocked the EGR to prevent the notorious carbon buildup(Ported and polished on uninstalled setup- I have another complete intake manifold for the new motor)
*17lb & 19lb injector sets (I still have the stock 15lb injectors in the car)
*1.52 roller tip rockers installed currently
*Fiero alum valvecovers (not installed)
*140amp polished Alt with custom bracket
*ASP crankshaft underdrive pulley
*new design tensioner
*timing cover with electric WP fitting TIG welded in place (not installed)
*aftermarket prom chip- programed for 180* running temp
*New distributor with A/C Delco module and dist based drilled for added cooling
*53,000volt Hypertech ignition coil. (Stock is 38,000, MSD is 48,000) Coil underneath further heatshielded from exhaust manifold
*Taylor 8.8mm race wires
*Taylor fire sleeves to heat shield the spark plug cable boots
*EVERY sensor in the computer system loop has been replace with a new A/C Delco units within the past 2 years- everything is perfect. A/C delco sensors and module are the best money can buy. They have great insulation against heat and will out perform anything else in the short and long run- don't ever buy any other brand.
*3 years ago I had a new 2.8 GM crate motor put into it (not rebuilt) It has currently about 41,000 on it.(as of 7/05)
*I run a longer oilfilter thanks to header clearance, 1/2qt more oil volume now in motor due to larger filter
*3.4L 60*V6 bolck on engine stand bored to 3.5l (in process of custom build)
*MobilOne full synthetic 15W50 oil in every car I drive.
*40below and swimming pool ("treated") water in the cooling system
*Deleted the TB coolant lines entirely for ease of plenum removal.
* 13 degree timing advance. stock is 10*
*redid the headliner
*LaCarrera polished 4-spoke steering wheel and polished billet hub with black bowtie engraved horn insert.
*Pioneer 1.5din CD player reciever unit- no amps. This unit doesn't need it. It has much much better sound than the factory ERS system. Amps add too much weight anyways- I'm into handling so I personally don't care for that crap in a car. I have a home system that will drowned out any ******* neighbor playing their crappy thump thump music in the rare case that happens in my neighborhood. Loud music doesn't belong in an automobile (My personal opinion) One need to listen to the noises your car is telling you when you drive- especially when pressing a car (A big tip for novice drivers.)
*Sylvainia Silverstar headlamps both low and high beams
*Triple edge lifetime wiperblades
*Personalized license plate reading: ON A RAIL
*Autolite plugs
*Optima "yellow" top battery ("Reds" are crap, they can not deep cycle and will ruin if discharged then jumpstarted)
*Does the matching painted floorjack count? I was bored
*Momo Street Racer GT recliner seats (Black/grey bead trim)http://www.momousa.com/product_view....ping.jpg&id=62
*Momo adjustable slider seat brackets (specific made for 3rdgen Camaro factory mounts)
*Dynamat sound deadening and heat insulation on roof, doors and floorboard including rear cargo area.
*ACC deluxe carpet kit
*Hurst dual gate shifter
*Hurst pistol grip
*AGR quick ratio 12:1 steering box with billet aluminum retainer plates
* Custom steering shaft made up of Flaming River solid swivel joints and telescopic shaft- stainless steel.
*Custom fabric headliner
*Custom fabric door panels
*factory aluminum front bumper support
*Factory fiberglass hood (82-83) "not yet installed" Pending installation- might not use if a better aftermarket one comes out before I need new paint. ]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/518752/7

Dean

Timmie

I believe you, but you have to onderstand that I can not get ahold of every swaybar spring or shock in the world.
camaro's and firebirds are already pretty scarce around here. ( think about maybe 100 F-body's in Belgium, many of them hiding in garages until they are 25 years old )

so for performance parts are even more rare to find.
at this moment only parts online are a

blue T-56 tranny
http://www.kapaza.be/Auto_onderdelen...e_6_speed.html

A spohn safety lop
http://www.kapaza.be/Auto_onderdelen...oop_SPOHN.html

quick ratio steering
http://www.kapaza.be/Auto_onderdelen...d_transam.html

a v6 to v8 swapped camaro where nobody even dares to go to inspections with ( it shows up every couple of months
http://www.kapaza.be/Autos/USA_Cars/...kup_4_0V6.html

and some brakepads
http://www.kapaza.be/Auto_onderdelen...mic_nieuw.html
http://www.kapaza.be/Autos/USA_Cars/...kup_4_0V6.html


so what I need is some advise to make a v6 camaro that stays on the road during normal driving. it doesnt have to pull 2G in corners or something, just handle better then what gm deliverd stock to me and is still under the car.
and I can not order every swaybar around just to test what does the best job with keeping me on the road. since I can not resell the bad swaybars because there arent enough customers to sell them to.

so something to look for to af a bit of good handling would be nice.


lol forget about this last post, I see you gave al the info already.

89_RS

There should be zero difference between a V6 or V8 powered thirdgen other than the engine AFAIK.

Also, shipping is probably going to be a nightmare for you since you're in Europe. If you want to find performance parts, shop at the US manufacturers website, try and set something up with someone in the US and have them ship it to you.

Honestly, new bushings would go a long way. Until you give us more of an idea of what you want to use the car for, were all kinda shooting in the dark. If you just want a daily driver, new bushings are all you need. If you want something that can AX worth a damn, then you need to start looking at the aftermarket parts. The aftermarket parts are lighter and stronger than stock and offer something better than bushings, rod ends or pivot joints. Rod ends and pivot joints eliminate bind, but they also cost more than bushings.

Timmie

I would like to
make it handle smooth,
better then stock,
but not going all out hunting porsches in corners.

I would like it to handle like a modern day mercedes CLK or something.

btw, for the parts I already work with a dutch guy in the usa. who will send al the parts at once.
at yes the trick in ordering in the USA for people like me is to buy a lot of things at once.

Timmie

Ok, I'm busy with replacing all the bushings. with a spohn total kit.
the only ones I still need to do are the ones from the A arms, and those of the panhard rod.

the transmission mount and torq arm looked the worst. ( tranny mount was in 2 pieces, 1 part against the tranny other against the chassis.)
the torq arm bushing was pushed out halfway and the opening where the torq arm sits in the bushing was just a straight slice.


the car already feels a little bit tighter and less squeeky
only question I got at the moment is, how tight do you have torq the endlinks down. is there a way to visually see when its tight enough ?
because I think its thight enough, but I could be wrong.

Timmie

nobody who got a good answer for me how hard I have to torq them down ?

AM91Camaro_RS

i did a quick search and it looks like 15-20 ft/lbs is the common answer for that question. i searched for "endlink torque" and the 7th thread down is where i came up with that.