g_nutts

Hey guys. I'm new to the site although I've had my camaro for 12 years and its almost done! I was just wondering if anybody has tried the jegster torque arm? It's alot shorter than any other one I've seen and it mounts to the driveshaft tunnel as compared to the tranny or cross member. I'm interested in upgrading the torque arm so any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

AlkyIROC

You want a long one. Attaching to the crossmember is the best.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

I have this one (pic is a link)

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iTrader: (14)

me too

g_nutts

Thanks! Eventually there will be 4 link setup back there but for now I want to get it as good as I can get it.

2fast4u92z

I disagree! Why do you say longer is better? I very well could be wrong but I thought the angle and not the length is all that was important. I have the BMR X-treme and it is very short but there are F-boadies in the 8's with it.

Isn't the angle supposed to cross the center "weight" of the car. Like if the center weight of the car is under the driver seat then tip of the torque arm is supposed to point at the ground at that spot? Or something like that.

g_nutts

That's what I thought, I figured that the torque of the rear twisting would lift the back of the car more with a short torque arm, planting the tires better.

2fast4u92z

Eliminate traction problems with the BMR Trak Pak©. This design eliminates the transmission tailshaft stress by relocating the torque arm front mount. Shorter torque arm design moves the "instant center" rearward for improved weight transfer on acceleration. This kit consists of the adjustable torque-arm, a universal crossbrace, mounting hardware, and an anglefinder for adjusting pinion angle. Rear end mounting plates are made from strong, laser cut 3/8 " cold rolled steel. Equipped with a rear adjuster to allow on-car pinion angle adjustments up to 6 degrees for dragstrip tuning and a polyurethane front mount. Torque arm is made from 1.25" x .120" DOM tubing while crossbrace is made from 1-5/8" x .120" DOM tubing. Crossbrace requires welding and professional installation. Available in Black Hammertone or red powdercoat.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

There's such a thing as too much of a good thing. 400HP and under, yep. Over that and you hit the tires too hard too fast and they just rebound. With super soft drag slicks maybe you'd be ok. But typically with the big power cars (with a hard launch, not a turbo for example), then you'd use a longer arm to try and soften the hit.

2fast4u92z

Wouldn't the torque arm angle adjust that? I remeber when my torque arm was first installed and I drove it, it sucked as it was like a positive 1* angle. Cuz I didn't have a angle finder at the house. Changed to a -2* and hooked so hard I started to break things!

I am no expert on this just trying to understand! Thanks

AlkyIROC

The length dictates where the IC is ahead of the axle. I have no idea how long any of the torque arms are but I've experimented with a few IC points on my 4-link. I'm also making a lot more power than a street car but an IC point ahead of the car's CG is way too much and causes the car to squat. An IC too short unloads the tires. My IC is currently 46" forward of the rear axle centerline and 6.5" off the ground.

2fast4u92z

Not true the IC is not done by the length but buy the angle. And the mount point doesn't make that the IC point.

From what I have read on this if a line way drawn down the center of the LCA and another on the T/A where every they meet.

A shorter arm alows for a quicker IC as it also allows for up to -6* angle. You are right about the quick,hard load and the unload ou tof the hole.
I am very bad at making a point but here is a pic