david auster

iTrader: (10)

They are made by Spohn. They are the billet upper strut mounts he sells. I will be happy to measure the exact size and get back to you but if yours are made to work with the stock thickness mine are for sure a lot thicker.

It certainly is nice to see that you work with your potential and existing customers.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I think david is referring to the additional metal piece under the mounts. He has aluminum mounts and they are much thicker. I dont think that should be an issue though.
What I dont like is the undercut on those fillet welds, must be quite a lot to see it through the powdercoat........

UMI Performance

Its not a undercut.... its a TIG weld. We like to use TIG for the look, it offers a nice smooth bead that indents into the item rather then a humped up MIG weld. Keep in mind that is a proto-type item and the first one built, it has been cut apart and re-welded a few times.

Send a picture of the strut mounts and I will be glad to look. If it is just the aftermarket mounts I think Spohn is using 3/16" steel.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Like I said aluminum.

Whether you TIG or MIG you can still have undersut on a weld. I know what a fillet T joint weld should look like and there is undercut on the toe of the top weld on the end mount. I can understand that this may be a protype part but someone else mentioned to me that UMI products have a lot of undercut in the welds. I can clearly see this now. Maybe your production parts are different and you use a different process, or maybe you dont and this is why the parts are so high in price for a 2 piece STB. Maybe if you used MIG they would be cheaper, you can get a nice fillet weld with the mig and not have it "humped up"

UMI Performance

We prefer the TIG weld, it is clearer and looks nicer in my opinion. We like to TIG as well, TIG welding a art and requires a skill. Like the old saying goes "You can teach a monkey to MIG weld" TIG defiantly requires much more time, patience and skills... this is why we like it.

As for a undercut, I don't see in the pictures... and I took them. We don't have any complaints on undercut's. The only complaint we ever had on a undercut was from a ex employee of one of our large competitors... he knows who he is. Other then that we make a tremendous products with very minimal failures.

As for the price, if you can't see why we need to charge this then I am sorry. But anyone in the fabricating business would understand the amount time and work it takes to design and build that type of fabrication.

BADMAN

iTrader: (13)

Since you are now online, could you check my last post and comment? Thanks

Duracell Bunny

My only complaint is it is going to be a real pain in the but to re-align the car every tire change. This thing will have to just completely be taken off for the alignment. Then if that 3rd bolt hole you show but have not used yet is drilled into the strut tower & then caster changes are made, it has to be redrilled and chances are it is not far away enough a move it ends up just elongating the hole drilled into the strut tower. ALignment mechanics will likely tell you to remove it yourself then bring the car back. 20 years from now, chance is you have one big hole underneath where it has been redrilled 5-8 times.

Also, I stated many times on this board (TGO) that a strut tower is useless with factory rubber strut mounts. The strut shaft is what needs to be controled and this is ONLY done with a solid bearing strut mount like the thicker designs out there (HMS, Spohn). That Hotparts.com piece is better than stock with urethane, but will not fit either since you have to shim it off the strut tower so high for underneath strut travel clearance.

My first post gave suggestions to a great and user friendly desgin. I can draw sketches if people would like but it would of course involve greater cost of making custom strut mounts and the use of threaded male/female adjusters.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

BTW I am a Level II NDT inspector sooooo... I just need to get the time now to apply for Level III


Anyways why not just make a plate that goes under the strut mount out of 7ga plate with two tabs sticking up? The downside is that you'll have to take the mount off to do it. Which is no big deal if you mark things accurately before removal.

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

Ryan, dont mind the cheap crowed. Your products have always been top notch and they still are. Im interested in one of those bar, I was gonna wait a bit later to order but while you are still building my a-arms, I figured that you could ship it with them when ready. pm me or send me a e-mail for direction on how to order. Let the low ballers talk their asses off. ()

Later man.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Duracell Bunny

ProjectZ and Spike,

Both of your responses were oh so helpful with tech advice. Could maybe you turn them up a notch and give reasons why this product will be beneficial the way it mounts.

I also will say to the two of you that I gaurantee I have more money in my total car modifications that both of you combined. So much for the lowballers theory eh?

in all of my postings, I was giving good helpful solid acvise to help the R&D of his design so he and clients do not suffer ill effects on design flaws. Price is not a concern to me, usefulness/hinderence is.

Kat

iTrader: (4)

I agree Dean. Paint and body work materials alone on my vert were about 1700 dollars. The suspension there is about 3'gs in that now.

The only other thing about the design, like most other STB's, the UMI one still allows up and down movement of the towers. IMO one that mounts to the towers with no rod ends or anything would be the way to go.

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

Duracell, Thats what I was referring too when I made a comment about lowballer. Nothing I said refered to you personnally or what you said. Personnally knowing someone in that type of business, I know that developpement costs are high, and before you can start making a money selling pieces, you better have made your homeworks, this is a very unforgiving business. Products have to be perfect, and not fail under any circumstance.

As for the "look how much money i spent on my car thing" click on my cardomain if you wanna play that game. And Kat, paint and bodywork on my car are near 10k, 1700$ was about what it cost to have the car soda blasted... anyways.

Back to topic; I dont see why this piece in particular is faulty. Im in no way a welder inspector of any type, but I know recognize a good from a bad weld. All I know is after buying all of the UMI line, I never saw one defective weld. Hey maybe sometimes they are not the prettiest, but as long as they hold to every abuse, count me in. I dont think that bar design is bad. Just install the mounting plates, have to car alligned, but the crossbar in between. Maybe I missed something?

I dont want to be disrespectful to anyone, I just dont understand what the fuss is all about. Hope I didnt offended anyone!

Kat

iTrader: (4)

The point was, the guy said I was cheap. hehe

And the big deal about where it mounts and how, parts wear over time, so does the alingment due to that wear in parts. Sure the change might be a few thousands to a few hundred thousands. Still enough to where the alingment will it need to be changed. That and say if someone has a car at stock height now and throws on a sport line kit. See my point.

The design isnt bad at all. I like it actually.

Duracell Bunny

You have a nice project going, but you are barking up the wrong tree in this pissing contest. Try about 30K into mine parts wise alone. I do not think there is a part on my Camaro that is factory, and if it is, its been altered in some fashion. My brakes alone are worth more than your paint job.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Can I play??? I've got almost $4000 in my GTA...including purchase price, repairs & upgrades...

Let's all play the "My **** is bigger than yours." game, with our wallets....

Duracell Bunny

I was putting the kid in check. It was in response to his lowballers comment-
It was called for and in context.

Point being, there is enough of us out there that money is not necessarily a problem when it comes to a choice of parts. Then the pissing match started and he needed to be humbled.

wanna take the bragging route? I can do it all day. Lets get back to the subject of function & design.

kuulkatdadieo

iTrader: (1)

Hey Duracell sounds like you have a nice car. Lets see some pics. of it.

UMI Performance

Thank you.

We will try to work on another version as well when we get a chance. A item that non-adjustable and maybe bolts into the wheel wells off the strut mounts.

We are still going to offer the item shown, I am very pleased with it. We are just starting to put them into production. After we run a few pieces I will see if we are able to lower the price at all. I will post information shortly on how to purchase one if interested.

Thank you!
Ryan

88Convertible

iTrader: (8)

Will this fit a Super Ram intake??

Oldred

I have a question about the bar it self. It is it a piece of tubing? Is it a solid piece of bar stock with tapered threaded ends welded on. And if it is tubing is the cut out area over the TPI filled or just cut out?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Duracell Bunny

My current project Vette mock up C1500 Chev Truck (tow vehicle theme). This is my daily driver and work truck. I was involved in a fatal motorcycle accident and am putting it back together. (Was 0% my fault)
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...2_151_full.jpg

My race car- "68 Vette
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...52_19_full.jpg

My cruiser- '77 El Camino
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...2_143_full.jpg

My Camaro (wifes daily driver) This is the car with about 30K into it I spoke of above. This car is built and has pulled 1.07g's on a skid pad. Its my family car.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...752_1_full.jpg

My next project- my '67 Cooper S RHD. this one will take me about 10 years to build. It will be flawless and an extreme show car and racecar. It is the car that will put all my others to shame.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...52_24_full.jpg
To give you an idea of my intentions ,Finished Mini project will be more extreme then this example -
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...52_36_full.jpg
Then there is the race truck I crewcheif on-
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...2_139_full.jpg
My off road buggies -One I built from scratch-
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...2_130_full.jpg
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...2_129_full.jpg

I probably have about 200K into my cars and toys- the ones I touch frequently. Not to mention the cars my father and my 5 other brothers own. We have quite a stable of vehicles in this family.

Funny thing is, cars are not my real passion. Just a fun hobby and daily need.
I also own every vehicle I have- no payments. I DO NOT LIKE NEW CARS NOR DO I LIKE PAYMENTS I also like having something different than anyone else drives. things you can't buy, things you have to make yourself. I know car parts, hence why I give imput around this website.

GM Man

Looks nice, I look forward to seeing what the carb'ed verison is going to look like.

WillSpeedy

I don't usually cruise the chassis board but I saw this just today. I think it is a great idea to have adjustability and the notch for TPI plus you can take it out with only 2 bolts. Count me in! I have a MAC 2pt STB and I had to redrill the holes to get it to fit and the clearence over the TPI is paper thin. Sounds like $150 is a fair price to me, when can we order Ryan??

DomsIROC

iTrader: (1)

Bunnyman,

Not sure what your point is or your logic for your comments. It seems YOU are doing the whole "mine is bigger" thing

As for "The Project's" car, you could not have been more wrong. Before he sold the car many moons ago he had over 20K in car audio alone . AND, if memory serves he had over 50K into the car (and a basement full of awards).

Just stating fact here. Besides he is one of the most decent guys around. I could tell you stories but I don't want to embarrass the man.

Know your facts before you make statements about other peoples rides

Wadebryant

Ryan,

Maybe I missed the answer to the fit question with Sphon aftermarket strut mounts? The link below are the ones I have.

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1542

I'd also be interested in a GP if the STB works with my strut mounts.

Thanks

Duracell Bunny

Spike-Z: Ryan, dont mind the cheap crowed. Your products have always been top notch and they still are. Im interested in one of those bar, I was gonna wait a bit later to order but while you are still building my a-arms, I figured that you could ship it with them when ready. pm me or send me a e-mail for direction on how to order. Let the low ballers talk their asses off. ()

THEN, I responded.