Sunny

Hey guy's, I am tearing down my car and rebuilding it. I was wondering what I should do for the suspension. I already plan new springs..shocks..SFC's.. what else should I do? I am going to put side between 1000-1500 for suspension [parts not labour]. The less I can spend the better, but I dont want to cheap out. Can someone suggest what I should replace.. and some good brand's to do so? I have already read about the spohn parts on here and everyone seems fond of them. What about Eibach springs? I have always heard they work good.

I also plan to put a roll cage [8 point possibly?] to stiffen the chassis. What are thoughts on this? I know it could be over-kill, but I dont know how big of an engine I am going with yet.. at this point in time, the plan is a blown 383 stroker.

Apeiron

I wouldn't put a cage on anything street driven.

What's the intended use of the car?

Sunny

street / strip.. but I plan to take out the back seats anyways.. if that was your reasoning for not having a cage.. I am aiming for a pretty fast car, and I heard that adding a cage will help your chassis not flex.

Apeiron

It does, but if you're dragracing it's just dead weight unless you're running fast enough to need it. On the street it could be a liability since it's pretty close to your unprotected cranium.

Sunny

Hmm good point.. well.. I could get it covered in foam right? to make it padded.. or maybe I'll just forget the whole cage idea. Anyways any suggestions of a full suspension setup / idea of price?

sogabe

if i had 1500,
i'd go for a nice coil-over and a nice tubular k-member since
they are the most expensive IMO.

IceManRS305

iTrader: (-1)

subframes deffinately first... prob spohn or bmr, nice spring strut shock setup... anf if there was a few hundred left id get a panhard+lca's and drop brackets..... torque arms are kinda silly for street i heard unless its a strict drag car....

blyth18md

1. Struts/shocks (koni yellows)
2. Best tires you can afford (kuhmo mx, falken azeni rt-615s...)
3. Agressive alignment

This of course on top of the planned subframe connectors. If funding is limited id go with moog replacement springs cut to length, for ride height and spring rate. If theirs spare cash after the listed mods, maybe consider ground control weight jacker setup.

What wheels and tires?

I assume youre talking about for more handling potential if so avoid a tubular k-member their isnt one on the market yet id trust. I have yet to see a review of a coilover system on our cars after heavy track usage(road course/ autocross).

86irocterror

WONDER BAR!!!!!!!!! lol very very cheap upgrade and will stiffen up the stearing an front end.

IceManRS305

iTrader: (-1)

i do not understand why noone makes a quality k-member.... it really aggrivates me that fox body's and 93-up f-body's all have wonderful set-up's avail. what the hell is the prob with someone making one for a 3rd gen??? frustrating... sorry i had to vent lol.... also i havent seen any reviews either but i think if i was going to try to trust a coil over set-up spohn would be my choice.... i like their quality....

camaronewbie

I just dropped about $1200 on Bilstein shocks/struts, Eibach Pro Kit springs, Napa ball joints/tie rod ends (the higher priced beefier ones), poly endlinks and swaybar bushings, and TDS wonderbar. Installed myself, and I'm pleased. However I haven't the handling experience of others - I'm more of the "read it on here, gather a consensus of opinion, and go buy it" type.

blyth18md

I agree spohns setup MAY be worth giving a shot...but without at least one or two reviews the price makes me rethink the purchase.

UMI just released their road race k-member for the fourth gen, and Ryan suggested that we should hear more about a 3rd gen version this fall. Might you, you wont lose much, if any weight over the stocker, but you may gain some rigidity and working room.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i'm extremely happy with my AJE tubular kmember.

blyth18md

Im not knocking it as im not real familiar with the design, BUT how many miles do you have on it? How many of those are straight line miles? ...and how fast can you take the corners with that wheel and tire combo in your sig?

note that these are 4th gen versions and only for reference. The first is the AJE product, the second UMI. Now tell me if UMI feels the need to build something that is braced to this exist so that roadracers and autocrossers are comfortable enough to buy it...should i really trust the AJE version for the rigors of daily driving, speed bumps, on/off ramps...unexpected braking?

I personally wouldnt feel comfortable putting the AJE unit on anything other than a drag car.

IceManRS305

iTrader: (-1)

me too... there is a post on here somewhere... i think the persons name was "redbird" ?? i believe he/she was using a AJE and it cracked at the welds by the a-arm mounts.... there is a good chance im wrong with those details... but i do know i have never seen one on a autoX camaro 3rdgen.....


that thing prob weigh's double over the stocker ... lol....

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

don't misquote her post. it was NOT an AJE product it was PA racing. it cracked at the welds while hitting a pothole on the highway I believe.
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my buddy has 12,000 miles on his combo with street driving on nice days on chicago roads. stopping, racing, potholes, the whole shebang. now my combo...no front sway bar and skinnies, well i corner carve like a porsche
I got it for clearance reasons and it's gusseted enough for me, that picture you posted was for a motor plate car not a 3rd gen with motor mounts and gussets everywhere. If you're that worried you can ask them to weld in extra tubes and gussets to beef it up some for you. I had 2 extra tubes and 4 extra gussets welded onto mine, but who knows if it helps really or not.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Stillborne, I dropped $1000 on suspension and a rear end rebuild. PM me if you want me to send over the parts list with prices for what I did.
In a nutshell:

moog springs all around
KYB all around
poly everywhere
rear end girdle and solid spacer. New bearings and fluid.

probably other little bits here and there, but yea, ended up hitting me at $1000 CDN so, the coin doesn't go far once the smoke clears.

blyth18md

I believe it came in at 3lbs over stock
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Like i said, not familiar with the design, only posted up was on the website.

blyth18md

moog springs all around- cut to height and rate...we might be able to agree on something
KYB all around - Not where id cheap out
poly everywhere - Not very many places id spend money on putting poly especially when were talking the first $1500
rear end girdle and solid spacer. New bearings and fluid. - $ Better spent on tires and struts.

Again not saying these things are completely worthless, but not whered id spend my first buck chunk of money

Sunny

So whats your suggestion for suspension?

I think I am just going to go with struts and springs.. the coil over kits are too expensive [600USD each..front and rear[ and that exceedes my 1000$ for suspension.. where as I can get springs for like 200$ for all 4.. and I dont know the price on struts/shocks. Then I hope to invest in the following.

-SFC's
-Wonderbar

What else should I look for? LCA's? I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to suspension.. so any like "suggested setups" would be great. I want the car to handle well.. but the only real kind of racing I'll be doing is drag racing, so I dont want the car to handle so well that it will destroy my 1/4 mile time.. I just dont want it to handle like a boat either.

blyth18md

Moog replacement springs, then trim them to a ride height that works for you...since drag racing will be a priority you wont need the stiffest of the replacement springs.

Koni yellows. When i replace my current shock/struts these are the only off-the-shelf shocks and struts id consider. Theyre adjustable so you can dial them in to give you the best weight transfer at the track, but set them back for the drive home.

Like I said in my first response..the order should go something like this...

1. struts/shocks- koni yellows
2. tires - whatever is the best tire you can get in your size (goodyear gs-d3, kuhmo MX, falken rt-615s)
3. get a good alignment.

After you have that sorted out, then replace the springs with something that is tolerable for street driving but not too stiff to get the weight to tires at the track.

SFC's and a wonder bar are both great ideas as well.

crazyjim

Pick one... or you're going to suck at both. The only happy medium between the two of those is being slower at both. Just food for thought.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

you can still improve over stock, on both cornering, and drag racing traction. I know for a fact my car corners much better than stock, and it'll sure cut a better 1/4 mile time


C-tire, Parts source, auto value, etc. Everyone has moog springs.
For fronts:
5660 is the lighter duty one
5662 is the '91 Z-28 replacement, stiff.
5664 is the S15 one that I used. Very harsh. I love it.

rears
cc635 - variable rate, I used these
5665 - straight rate.

There's a website around where you can find the spring rates on these, if you need to know it.

Cutting springs, I didn't bother, because I don't like the low rider Impala look, or the low riding civic. A pony car doesn't need to be lowered. It also throws off your handling characteristics, unless you modify everything else to suit. (ie, you NEED LCA relocation brackets, etc.). I also think having to drive like a little old lady so you don't bottom out all the time is a PITA! I'd rather jack the car up, and drive like a bat out of hell! haha, I have 275/60/R15's on the back, and new stock springs, it's RAKED!! I love it!

Call around, and price out shocks/struts. Do a few searches around here, don't just take the first advice you hear. You *should* find that stock replacements will cost ya ~$50 per, and suck. KYB's are a good replacement, at around $100 each for the fronts, or $50 each for the rears IIRC. I got them from summit. Koni/Bilstein is... about double or triple the price. I bet most other members here are calling my BS right now, but STILLBORN, can call around and find out HIS local prices on Monroe, KYB, and Koni, and figure it out. They're worth the $, no doubt about it, but you'd break the bank pretty fast on them.

I know we can all agree SFC's should be first.

Tires - I just assumed yours were ok. If they are low on tread, replace 'em with the good stuff, otherwise it's hard to justify replacing a wear part... that isn't worn out.

I think I paid $200 to put poly bushings on the whole car. Absolutely worth it, I also boxed the panhard, and the LCA's. I think the poly was worth every penny, really stiffened up the car.
It's all a matter of opinions really. Do some searches, Crossfire_83TA, crazy hawaiin, Dean (or whatever he would call himself at that time), all have good posts in the past. They are all hardcore into it though, keep that in mind. If you aren't planning on spending buckets of cash on suspension, maybe don't take advice from the people who do, what they want out of their car is different then you.

blyth18md

5276 303.0
5596 346.0
5598 346.5
5600 347.0
5602 347.0
5604 347.0
5606 421.0
5608 424.0
5610 424.0
5642 420.0
5660 598.0
5662 748.0
5664 707.0
6486 343.0

5665 107.0
CC635 104.0

their are the moog part numbers and their rates.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

? hmm, i've found the 5662's and 5664's to be reversed as what you've written down. Are you sure about those?

I found this post:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/1502329-post6.html

and all other internet sources listed the 5662's as 706, 5664's as 762ish.?

blyth18md

Activant C2C

try that link, direct from the federal mogul / moog site...but then again it looks like chicken man was saying that the moog catalog had things backwards as well...hard to tell.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yea, that's what i'm thinking. It seems bass-ackwards to have all the numbers going up, and the spring rates going up, except those two being backwards..?
Everywhere i've searched online have it listed as 5664 being stronger than 5662, so that's what I went with.